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Glue for Rubber to Steel joint

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  • Glue for Rubber to Steel joint

    I read somewhere that polyurethane glue would do a good job sticking rubber to steel. So I used it to glue rubber pads to some steel feet I have for a mill. After a day, the glue was hard, but the rubber did not stick. It peeled off very easily. I put the feet in the lathe to clean off the glue and I am now ready for another try. Suggestions?

  • #2
    Completely clean the rubber with lighter fluid (naptha) and let it dry. You can't substitute another solvent.
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    • #3
      In the past I have had some joy in using Evo Stick the solvent type not the modern solvent less type although most of them are not that good at resisting peeling.
      Silicon adhesive is quite good as long as you get a good en like the aquarium type some of the modern silicones are realyy only gap fillers and are not true adhesives for rubber I would suggest you give the rubber some form of keying so the silcone can grip.

      I have tools I don't know how to use!!


      • #4
        Use Loctite Black Max, a cyanoacrylate glue with rubber/neoprene in it to stick them together. I would use a spritz of Birchwood Casey's Gun Scrubber to clean both parts first, and let it evaporate until no odor remains.

        Montezuma, IA
        David Kaiser
        “You can have peace. Or you can have freedom. Don't ever count on having both at once.”
        ― Robert A. Heinlein


        • #5
          I did clean both parts with acetone. Do you know why the solvent is critical?


          • #6
            You can also use solvent based contact cement. Solvent contact cement is neoprene dissolved in naptha.

            cross post: Naptha is the solvent specific to rubber and neoprene.
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            • #7
              How about " Shoe Goo " or some such name? I hear it sticks to
              anything. And it stays flexable.
              Note to Self: Gotta try that stuff sometime. :-)


              • #8
                And can you sandblast the surface of the steel feet ???

                Regards Ian
                You might not like what I say,but that doesn't mean I'm wrong.


                • #9
                  Try 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive sold in auto supply stores. It's made to glue rubber to steel. It's always worked well in my applications.
                  "People will occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of the time they will pick themselves up and carry on" : Winston Churchill


                  • #10
                    Look for something called E6000 (, industrial strength, medium viscosity, clear, self leveling version. It comes in a gray tube with a black panel on the front containing the white E6000 logo vertically. I buy it at ACE hardware. Among other things, I've used it to glue rubber stoppers to steel disks in making vibration mounts for a 3HP electric motor. It remains somewhat flexible, is extremely strong and quite heat resistant up to 200 degrees or so at least. I do rough up the steel a bit with a stone in a dremel, but this stuff seems to stick well to anything. The only down side is that it requires 24 hours for a good cure.

                    Last edited by chipmaker4130; 01-23-2009, 12:50 PM.


                    • #11
                      Re: Rubber to metal

                      If you go to a rubber products company, my supplier in Florida is Capitol Rubber Co., they have a product called Rubitex. It is a solvent based adhesive and works very well. Be forwarned, that stuff is EXTREMELY FLAMABLE and also toxic to breathe but it really does the trick. It's cheap too, $5-$7 a pint.

                      One trick that they showed me is to put a little grease on the threads of the can the first time you open it or you will never get it off again.
                      Jim (KB4IVH)

                      Only fools abuse their tools.


                      • #12
                        Buff the rubber?

                        Did you buff the rubber with some sandpaper to give it "tooth"? I use a slightly worn out 3M sanding disk on my pneumatic angle grinder to raise the grain of rubber before gluing, and I've had good luck with weatherstrip adhesive for steel to rubber bonds. How thick is your rubber? Can you recess a fastener in it to give it a little insurance? I had to do that for replacement rubber feet for my compressor to keep it from eventually fatiguing the bond and losing it's pads. All it took was a 10-32 screw sunk below the surface.


                        "Nothing is impossible for the man who doesn't have to do it himself"


                        • #13
                          In addition to all the good advice on using a good adhesive and prepping right, I would offer the following:

                          "Rubber" is used to describe all sorts of flexible products nowdays and some of them contain silicone-- and very few are natural latex rubber in any case. They make non-stick muffin pans out of silicone so you can understand where you could be headed if the material is wrong. If the rubber you had were pure silicone, you would know it. However, rubber that contains *some* slicone is less obvious, but I would still think it could be hard to get anything to adhere to well. Some of these rubber items I am referring to are almost "slimy" in feel.

                          Hopefully you are not working with something like sorbothane which has great vibration dampening characteristics, but which can be downright slimy (presumably due to silicone content).

                          Paul Carpenter
                          Mapleton, IL


                          • #14
                            Thanks for all the good advice. To answer a few quesions - I did rough up the surface first - that was not enough. The material is pretty thin - I wanted to use hockey pucks, but they are not available in Temple,TX!!!. I do have some weatherstrip glue, so I will try that next.


                            • #15
                              Vulcanized natural rubber and neoprene are crosslinked elastomers. All the dangling ends of the molecular chains are attached to each other. Roughing up the surface doesn't undo those links to expose ends which are needed for chemical bonding to occur. That's why using the correct solvent works. It breaks the cross linked molecular strands and exposes lots of loose ends for bonding even after the solvent has evaporated.
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