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Atlas 7b parts dimensions

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  • Atlas 7b parts dimensions

    Hi

    can one of my 7b shaper brethren measure/sketch a couple of parts for me?

    I've got some 4140 to make a tool post and crank handle from, want it to look original so hoping to get measurements for

    tool post
    tool post screw
    tool post washer

    and

    3/8 sq crank handle

    thanks very much!
    .

  • #2
    This what you need?

    http://thevirtualbarandgrill.com/mac...las7b/clapper/

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by dp
      well that doesn't that just take the prize

      thanks!

      to top it off, i'm typing in the shop on the laptop listening to music from an inside server getting crucial info instantaneously from three thousand miles away. the lathe may be old but the technology here is right up to date off to make chips
      .

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      • #4
        Regarding the crank handle, I bought one from Carr-Lane, catalog number CL-0-H. It's just like the original, only a little shorter.

        Joe

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Mcgyver
          well that doesn't that just take the prize

          thanks!

          to top it off, i'm typing in the shop on the laptop listening to music from an inside server getting crucial info instantaneously from three thousand miles away. the lathe may be old but the technology here is right up to date off to make chips
          Did you see the prices on that parts drawing? How did they make any money?

          I usually listen to Hawaiian music at http://IRH.com/ but with the economy tanking, can't sell my house or Harley, my savings are gone and my investments have followed the stock market into the toilet, it's time to listen to The Blues!

          http://audiocandy.com/m3u/sizebluehiband.m3u

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          • #6
            Mcgyver: This may seem like heresey, but while you are at it, you might consider making a second clapper block like the one done by Rudy Kohuput (sp.?) in an early HSM or MW. Basically, he reasoned that if the tool bit was mounted directly under the clapper pivot, chatter would be minimized. He made a solid block with vertical tool bit holes of several sizes. Seemed like a very good idea for a lot of straightline shaping. Duffy
            Duffy, Gatineau, Quebec

            Comment


            • #7
              Tool

              Duffy's post refers to a good clapper tool holder but here is a tool holder that has been built and used by many shaper owners.
              Note that by reversing the bar you can place the tool directly under the clapper pivot.
              It's easy to make and very useful. It does stop chatter.
              Mine is crude but only took an afternoon to make.
              Bill
              I cut it off twice and it's still too short!

              Comment


              • #8
                Here's another tool holder idea:

                http://www.homemetalshopclub.org/news/sep03/shaper.jpg

                The full article is here:

                http://www.homemetalshopclub.org/news/sep03/sep03.html

                And here's the description that goes with the above image:

                A Shaper Tool Holder
                by J. R. Williams - HMSC Member

                The shaper tool is made to fit in the clapper of my Logan Shaper. The body is made from an old B-7 stud bolt (4130) and is 4-5/16 inch long. The large end is 0.990 dia. x 0.220-in. long. The next section is 0.750 dia x 0.350-in. long before the threaded section. The threads are 3/4-16 NF. The remainder of the shank is 0.650-in.dia. near the threads to make starting the nut easier and tapering in a couple steps to 0.625 inch diameter. The tool bit holding section is a 1/4 inch square hole set back 0.350 from the end. The clamp screw is a square head, 1/4-20 NC, set screw with a dog point machined on the end. The slot was made by machining a slot in the end with an enlarged section for the filler section and silver soldered in place. The parts were machined to provide a tight fit with the silver solder tape in place. Flux was applied and the silver solder flowed to finish the job. Then the part was held on the threaded section in a collet to finish the end OD. and drill and tap the end for the set screw. The nut was bored and threaded in the lathe using an old flanged nut for stock then the hex was reduced to 15/16-in. from the original 1-1/8-in.. The nut was heated with a torch to the blue temperature and quenched in oil.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by dp
                  Did you see the prices on that parts drawing? How did they make any money?
                  I know you're joking, but those are scans of the original manual (from 50 years ago). As McGyver and I have found, Clausing stocks virtually nothing in spare parts for the Atlas shapers.
                  "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Tool

                    DP
                    That's an interesting tool holder.
                    It would be good for some types of cuts but does not put the tool under the pivot point. Unless I am missing something.
                    Bill
                    I cut it off twice and it's still too short!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Seastar
                      DP
                      That's an interesting tool holder.
                      It would be good for some types of cuts but does not put the tool under the pivot point. Unless I am missing something.
                      Bill
                      No, that is not the intent. It is not possible when cutting splines or slotting, for example, to put the tool under the pivot. I shared it only because of general interest in tool holder alternatives.

                      The old style gooseneck tool holders were intended to provide a rear-set cutter but they're not common anymore. I've lost a lot of ebay bids chasing them.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        thanks for all the good ideas - Joe, you're right, @ $10 hardly worth making the handle.....their web site says its made out of cast iron? just seemed an odd material, but i guess it just stand up ok.

                        one more Q - whats the size of the square head on the tool post screw?

                        thanks
                        .

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                        • #13
                          The flats are 0.370" apart and it's 0.5" in height.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            thanks again Dennis.

                            just need a motor and its ready to try
                            .

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Mcgyver
                              their web site says its made out of cast iron? just seemed an odd material, but i guess it just stand up ok.
                              It's malleable iron, it behaves more like steel than cast iron. The handle part is rough, I smoothed mine on a belt sander. Carr Lane has a minimum order, I don't remember how much. I ordered some clamps to make up the rest.

                              Joe

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