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  • Bridgeport quill stop

    I'd like to come up with a different design for a quill stop on this POS Bridgeport instead of winding that stupid graduated nut up and down 12,457 times every time [ approx ]

    Anyone got any idea's, pic's etc before I commit a design to a lump of unobtainium ?

    Thinking aloud here, why if these are toolroom machines working to very fine limits you are restricted to measuring quill travel with a 5" rule ?

    .
    .

    Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.




  • #2
    http://www.icai-online.com/home.php?cat=315

    Practically standard on Bridgeports around here.

    Comment


    • #3
      John you should sell the bridgport and get either a Ramboudi, Elliott, Tos, Ajax or Beaver turret mill
      Precision takes time.

      Comment


      • #4
        Spring-caliper type?

        Nice accessory dfw5914.

        For JohnS:
        Have you had a close look at the quick release/engage on the better old-fashioned spring dividers/calipers that were two half-nuts with a taper which engaged a taper on one of legs and at the same time closed the nuts so that normal "fine" hand adjustment via the knurled "spinner" drove the leg motion in/out.

        If I recall correctly my Moore and Wright sets had them, and probably Starrett as well - and so do the Chinese ones.

        Like the ones posted by dfw5914, they are quick and effective.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Ringer
          John you should sell the bridgport and get either a Ramboudi, Elliott, Tos, Ajax or Beaver turret mill
          I know but if you have seen where this is situated then it's not a two minute job to remove it and replace it.

          When you move machines you always loose time 'just doing this while it's out ' and first off I'd have to move the big TOS lathe out and if i did this there is a weeks work in doing repairs on this alone.

          I can't afford a week of dead time.

          .
          .

          Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



          Comment


          • #6
            Yes I have seen that spring loaded one but how does this address the locking ring below ?

            Is the spring load enough that you don't need the ring ?
            At the moment i find that unless it's locked up snug it alters with cutting vibration.
            .

            Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



            Comment


            • #7
              I've not noticed any drifting of the setting, but I do not do any heavy milling with the quill extended. Personally, the quill stop is typically only used when using the machine as a drill press (or "pillar drill (?)"), most frquently when using a self reversing tapping head.
              Last edited by dfw5914; 03-04-2009, 07:28 AM.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by John Stevenson
                Thinking aloud here, why if these are toolroom machines working to very fine limits you are restricted to measuring quill travel with a 5" rule ?
                -Because the quill is used for gross movement. The knee (and it's graduated dial) are used for fine movement.

                Doc.
                Doc's Machine. (Probably not what you expect.)

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Doc Nickel
                  -Because the quill is used for gross movement. The knee (and it's graduated dial) are used for fine movement.

                  Doc.
                  How can you use the knee if the head is over at 30 degrees boring a valve seat out to microns?

                  .
                  .

                  Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by John Stevenson
                    How can you use the knee if the head is over at 30 degrees boring a valve seat out to microns?
                    -You don't. The Bridgeport-style turret mill is a jack of all trades, but master of few. The quill was not intended to be used to precision depths- it was assumed the knee would provide the Z-axis accuracy.

                    No, as-designed, it can't (easily) do precise off-axis boring, but then, neither can it easily use large face mills, or gang tooling, or geared indexers for helical milling.

                    It can be made to do these things- and often has been- but it was never designed to be anything more than a general-purpose machine; good at some things, great at others, poor at a few.

                    Doc.
                    Doc's Machine. (Probably not what you expect.)

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by John Stevenson
                      I'd like to come up with a different design for a quill stop on this POS Bridgeport instead of winding that stupid graduated nut up and down 12,457 times every time [ approx ]

                      Anyone got any idea's, pic's etc before I commit a design to a lump of unobtainium ?

                      Thinking aloud here, why if these are toolroom machines working to very fine limits you are restricted to measuring quill travel with a 5" rule ?

                      .
                      I've got project to build a fine feed for my Omnimill, So the following could seen as presumptious having not worked on a bridgeport.
                      You could use the thread as rack for pinion and drive the pinion via a reduction box e.g. one of small Motorvario worm drives you have lying around.

                      My solution for the omnimill is extending the shaft that elevates the quill by removing the quill return spring cover and using a MotoVario worm drive. A simple co-axial friction clutch engages the fine feed.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Not intended for precision boring? Oh cr4p, I wish someone had told me that when I BORED out the old valve guides on my Veller forty odd years ago.

                        Regards Ian.
                        You might not like what I say,but that doesn't mean I'm wrong.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Quill DRO,been around for decades and they work very well.The Chinese versions are down to $35 or less here-

                          http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/pr...categoryID=312
                          I just need one more tool,just one!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by John Stevenson
                            Yes I have seen that spring loaded one but how does this address the locking ring below ?

                            Is the spring load enough that you don't need the ring ?
                            At the moment i find that unless it's locked up snug it alters with cutting vibration.

                            When I use a spring loaded stop, I always back it up with the locking ring. The holding power of the spring loaded stop alone is not enough. I usually leave the locking ring near the bottom and simply fill in the space between the two stops with a couple of step blocks from the clamp set or some old, beater gage blocks. I have also seen guys make a set of assorted length spacers out of pieces of pipe that have been faced and then split down one side with an endmill.

                            George
                            George
                            Traverse City, MI

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Is it possible to cough up an adjustable stop rod like used for depth control on many wood routers? I don't know the machine so don't know if it's possible or practical.

                              The wood plunge routers frequently have a step wheel under the rod in 1/4" steps. In your case they could be a circle with several threaded rods to you could jump quickly between preset depths. Hell, you'd be "da man"

                              I'll edit in a pic of what I"m talking about if I can find one. BTW, have you been to Wikipedia yet for an answer to your query!

                              edited to add: is it practical to set the existing nut at one depth and then use 1/4" rods of varying length to fine tune the depth? In other words, if you were at maximum depth on the stock, these rods could then be used for the other elevations on the stock by interrupting the depth adjustment nut with various size rods. (no reason the rod couldn't be adjustable either like a jack. You could then mic the rod at the bench and then insert it between the much revered POS Bridgeport Mills depth adjust nut and the rest it comes up against.)
                              Last edited by Your Old Dog; 03-04-2009, 09:25 AM.
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