Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Adjustable hand reamer in lathe?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Jeffw5555
    replied
    Turns out I was mistaken, the bushings I have in my hell box that will fit this application closely are bronze, not brass. (They are starter pilot bushings)

    I agree that a boring tool would be better, but I believe the reamer will leave a smoother finish, right? (I have the O ring seal to worry about; that's why I thought of using the reamer in the first place)
    I'm going to try chucking the reamer in the tailstock lightly, & take .001" cuts at a time, just to see how it works. I'll report back my findings. Thanks for all the good advice.

    Leave a comment:


  • JCHannum
    replied
    I agree that the blade reamer should not be used under power, and mentioned that in my first post.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jpfalt
    replied
    Not a hand reamer - an adjustable hand reamer

    Jim,

    I'd agree that a hand reamer could work OK, but I have seen them twisted off depending on what they are being put through.

    In this case though I think what is being used is an adjustable hand reamer where the blades are separate and are held by threaded bushings at each end and may have blade slots in the threaded shank. These are remarkably delicate when compared to a solid reamer. With these, what usually happens is the end of one or more blades snap off and the shank twists off if used too aggressively.

    Leave a comment:


  • JCHannum
    replied
    Whether a chucking or hand reamer, the chips accumulate in the flutes, and the reamer should be removed and cleared frequently in either case. If chips are allowed to build up, poor finish or damage to the tool will result.

    Aside from the difference in the shanks, the only real difference between hand and chucking reamers is in flute length and entry taper. A hand reamer has a longer flute length and a more gradual taper at entry. The purpose is twofold, to reduce power requirements and to guide the reamer.

    A chucking reamer has much shorter flutes and, usually about a 45 degree angle on the end for entry as the machine provides the power and guides the reamer.

    I have used hand reamers under power for years with no problems.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jpfalt
    replied
    DONT run the hand reamer under power.

    You will destroy the hand reamer as they are not made for use under power. The reamer will build up a chip in frnt of the cutter and stick, followed by snapping reamer shaft or splattering cutter blades.

    That being said, go ahead and chuck the work in the lathe and use the tailstock center for guidance, but realise that perodically you will need to back up the cutter to remove excess chip buildup.

    If determined to do this on a lathe under power, get a chucking reamer or use a boring bar.

    Leave a comment:


  • Oldbrock
    replied
    Don't use brass for bearings, use bronze or sintered bronze. Brass makes a very poor bearing. Bore to finish size, the reamer will likely jam and crash on you unless you are turning the chuck or the reamer by hand some way. Peter

    Leave a comment:


  • Carld
    replied
    The adjustable hand reamers are only good cutting a few thousandths at a time. If your insistant on using the lathe then use a center in the end of the reamer and feed the reamer in with the tailstock as you turn it by hand with an adjustable wrench.

    I would not recommend running the chuck to power ream it. They are definatelly not designed to be power driven.

    You can, however, buy a replacement if you destroy it.

    I agree, don't use brass for the bearing if you intend it to last a long time. If it is running in an oil bath it may work.

    Leave a comment:


  • oldtiffie
    replied
    Bore it?

    If the job is in the lathe, why ream it at all? Why not bore it? Why not drill the bush out to say 5/16" to 3/8", press it into the lever, mount the lever in the lathe as you seem to be going to do, and then bore it out?

    Why brass and not (phosphor/bearing or "sintered") bronze?

    Reaming is always my last option as I prefer to bore if I can. But if I must ream, I prefer to get to reaming size by boring as well.

    [Edit]
    Whoops.

    Sorry Peter (Brockley) as it seems I was typing as you posted.

    [End edit]

    [Edit 2]
    It is quite possible that the reaming load will make the bushing slip in the lever and jam on the reamer - and then you may well have another problem.

    [End edit 2]
    Last edited by oldtiffie; 03-16-2009, 10:22 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Oldbrock
    replied
    Don't use brass for bearings, use bronze or sintered bronze. Brass makes a very poor bearing. Bore to finish size, the reamer will likely jam and crash on you unless you are turning the chuck by hand some way. Peter

    Leave a comment:


  • JCHannum
    replied
    When using a tool such as a reamer in the lathe under power, support the reamer with the tailstock center in the center hole of the reamer. Hold the reamer with a tap wrench on the drive square. If the reamer grabs, let it slip out of your fingers and spin free. Make sure there is room for the tap handle to spin, so it does not hang up on some part of the lathe.

    Leave a comment:


  • Stepside
    replied
    Not the best option

    A reamer will tend to follow a drilled hole. My temptation would be a boring bar while it is still in whatever part holder you are using. Drill close and single point with the biggest boring bar you can get through the hole. If the "O" ring is the seal, you will want close to a polished finish or the bushing will eat the "O" ring.

    Leave a comment:


  • camdigger
    replied
    I didn't think it would be a problem... until I tried one and made a helical reamer out of a straight blade adjustable Musta been too big a bite?

    Leave a comment:


  • JCHannum
    replied
    If by an adjustable reamer, you mean the ones with the adjusting screw in the end, it should not be a problem, just keep speeds low. If you are referring to the blade type expansion reamers, I would not advise it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jeffw5555
    replied
    I know they are hand reamers; but I want to try them in the lathe.

    I learned the hard way 30 years ago that you never turn them CCW!

    The problem I have had with hand reamers "by hand" is getting a good consistent hole all the way through. I figure chucking in the lathe will help concentricity of feeding it, even if I have to turn the spindle by hand.

    Leave a comment:


  • rebel54
    replied
    These are hand reamers. Always turn in one direction and never reverse turn even when you back it out. If you do it can lock up in the bore.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X