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Air Hammer from Air Chisel ..and CV jpints

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  • Air Hammer from Air Chisel ..and CV jpints

    Pics below of Hubs for a rover 420 ...I'm trying to change the cv's
    I've been hammering on this drive shaft for two hours today...it's not moving not one milimetre..and I've absolutely been welly-ing it .

    I fear that if i hit it for another two hours the casting will crack

    I don't have a press ...and with the heavy Copper hammer, I'm probably exceeding what a press can give........granted a press will press evenly ..but in this case the splined interface is long..so no gain.

    I've tried heating it ..and no results ...I fear damaging the bearings ..probably already have ...nearest....car breakers is miles away ..no transport to go there ....and would probably faced with hours of work getting the things off the cars there ..that are probably seezed the same..

    Would turning an air chisel into an air hammer ..but modding the end of a chisel flat ...putting a receiver on-top of the stub ..help drive this thing out ..Has anyone modded such a thing ..and had good results?

    This is a common problem on these cars ..some people have resorted to sledge hammers........
    Behind the problem is the nandy pandy rover tech who didn't like oil or grease who assembled it dry, back in 1996









    all the best.markj

  • #2
    Could you not make up a plate with four holes for the wheel studs and a threaded center hole. Bolt the plate on the wheel studs, center bolt to apply pressure with rattle gun. Put as much pressure on it as you can, if it doesn't come loose the wack the center bolt with BFH, with the pressure on it. Should come loose I would think.

    Ed

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    • #3
      I ran into this on a Talon a little while ago. We had a 10lb hammer trying to get it off, even heating it same thing wouldn't budge. Finally took it out and in the press 1 minute later it was out. I'd take it to someone with a press or bit the bullet and buy a cheap press you'll use it again.

      Clinton

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      • #4
        Originally posted by ecortech
        Could you not make up a plate with four holes for the wheel studs and a threaded center hole. Bolt the plate on the wheel studs, center bolt to apply pressure with rattle gun. Put as much pressure on it as you can, if it doesn't come loose the wack the center bolt with BFH, with the pressure on it. Should come loose I would think.

        Ed
        sounds like a very good idea ..thankyou ED..will give it a try tommorow.

        Comment


        • #5
          Use a good size bolt in the center, I would use 3/4" dia. cause I have lots around maybe a little bigger, but not much smaller. Needs to be big enough to put a good bit of torque on it without twisting it off. I you can, point the end of the bolt a bit so it stays in the center, put a bit of grease on it to make things turn a bit easier. If the air impact won't budge it, BFH and maybe a bit of heat with the pressure on it, it will move.

          Ed

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          • #6
            What sort of thread should i have on this bolt, fine or course ..

            all the best.,markj

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            • #7
              http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-7394.html

              Comment


              • #8
                I have various pullers ..i doubt if any of them are up to this job ..

                universal is what makes them not so good ..they like to pull to one side ..and my largest ..dont have anything like a 3/4 bolt in the middle...and i wouldn't like to smack it either.

                i think by far, a custom one like ED suggested is the answer.

                All the best.markj

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by ecortech
                  Could you not make up a plate with four holes for the wheel studs and a threaded center hole. Bolt the plate on the wheel studs, center bolt to apply pressure with rattle gun. Put as much pressure on it as you can, if it doesn't come loose the wack the center bolt with BFH, with the pressure on it. Should come loose I would think.

                  Ed


                  Its a good thought Ed and it might work but it depends on the design -- I think the wheel hub fits half way in and the opposing CV is also half way into the cartridge bearing, if this is the case then its using one side to try and remove the other --- if the cv is the side with the most resistance then you just end up popping the wheel hub out - this can at least remove some of the resistance so that then you can get into the cv side with a loose sleeve for more pounding,
                  Aboard - they do make hammer ends for your air chisel and they can work good with high pressure --- Iv had some very stuck cv's before and it just depends, some like to be pressed, some like high frequency - and some like the sledge, I bounce around with all three and sometimes more - do whatever it takes without causing damage - i do not use heat on these as your more apt to swell the shaft too and damage seals and bearings, good luck and have fun, and remember if the women dont find you handsome they can still find you handy

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    yeah, you're quite right AK

                    i had thought about just the front coming off ..

                    we will have to see what happens........or maybe build puller with a fabbed piece that goes around the back at the same time as holding onto the studs.

                    all the best.markj

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      An air hammer/chisel isn't going to gain you much, if anything. Typical air hammers do things faster, not neccesarily harder. Their advantage is that they hit stuff many more times than you possibly can.

                      If this assembly is of the most common type I've seen, the flanged hub passes all the way through the bearing, and then the CV splines are fully inside the hub. Sometimes they're a loose fit, sometimes not.

                      In the first pic you are heating in the wrong place, you need to be heating just outside the hub to spline interface, this will expand the whole hub somewhat.
                      If you can come up with, or make a puller that has a FINE threaded bolt, fixture it all up, heat the piss out of the hub and then use an even bigger hammer than you have.

                      A press is the thing that will ultimately get it apart.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I believe there there was a thread discussing just this kind of thing not to long ago, was either here or over at PM.

                        Ed

                        Found it, here it is http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=33800
                        Last edited by ecortech; 03-19-2009, 12:13 AM.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by ecortech
                          Could you not make up a plate with four holes for the wheel studs and a threaded center hole. Bolt the plate on the wheel studs, center bolt to apply pressure with rattle gun. Put as much pressure on it as you can, if it doesn't come loose the wack the center bolt with BFH, with the pressure on it. Should come loose I would think.

                          Ed
                          Just finished a job very much like yours Mark.
                          As Ed said put a lot of pressure on it, the secret though is a good smart whack with the BFH!
                          Here's what my shop manual shows for the factory tool.




                          It didn't take long to fabricate something similar.
                          A little soak with penetrating oil while your making the puller probably won't hurt either.
                          Good luck.
                          Willy
                          Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
                          Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Puller

                            Aboard, The puller that highpower linked to in his post is what we use in our dealership for removing stubborn cv joints from hubs. They do seize in there pretty good.


                            The problem we have if we try and get them in a press is supporting the spindle and flange correctly with all the other hardware such as the backing plate for the brake rotors etc.

                            Does anyone nearby you have a puller such as that. The nice thing with them is you get even tension all around, plus the vibration factor of slamming the puller tighter with a hammer.

                            Good luck.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Er, why do you need the centre bolt A/E ?? The photo you show suggests that you only need a flat plate, tighten it evenly with the wheel stud nuts and apply BFH to centre alternately tightening the nuts.

                              Regards Ian
                              You might not like what I say,but that doesn't mean I'm wrong.

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