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boring problems...

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  • Your Old Dog
    replied
    That's pretty slick JC.

    Leave a comment:


  • JCHannum
    replied
    When building a model John Deere engine, I was faced with the same problem. I made a sub table to replace the compound. I used a piece of 1" thick aluminum.


    I cribbed the casting in place and used hold downs to hold it in place. The rear of the engine would not premit line boring, so I made a very stout boring bar to hold the cutter.


    I had acquired this gage in my roamings, and it works very well for setting the cutter protrusion. For one time use, a similar gage could be made by clamping a depth mic to a V-block.

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  • .RC.
    replied
    Mybe it is just me but I can never bore holes sucessfully with a boring head on a milling machine...All I get is constant chatter..

    I would be setting it up on the lathe or getting it honed..

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  • Oldbrock
    replied
    Piston valve bore

    Too bad you live so far South, I could hone it for you on my Sunnen hone. Find someone close to you who has one, should clean up in an hour or so. Peter

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  • barts
    started a topic boring problems...

    boring problems...

    I need to clean up the 1.25" diameter, 5" deep bore for the piston valve on the 2.5" x 2.5" steam engine I'm rebuilding... and my 2" boring head doesn't look like it will be happy w/ a 1/2" diameter boring bar that long.

    I thought about line boring it on the lathe, but can't figure out how to mount the cylinder on the cross slide w/ a lot of complications, and setting the protrusion of the toolbit seems awkward as well. I guess I could bolt the cylinder on the lathe faceplate, but that's a lot of cast iron winging around. ...

    The simplest idea seems to be to get a bigger boring head so I could mount 3/4" boring bars.

    Has anyone got a better idea? What do people thing of the cdco tools 3" boring head?

    - Bart
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