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Can someone help me wire my pump?

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  • Can someone help me wire my pump?

    I hoped you can help me. I have an inground pool that has a self priming electric pump that runs off normal house plug. I bought a salt water system for the pool at a great deal but it is for above ground pools which means the pump is not self priming. It is convertable, but upon removing the stock pump I noticed it was only 2.6 amps and 250 watts, which was odd info to me, as my pump says 9.6 amps 1/2 HP? So when I took out the stock pump it had 4 wires??(black, white, orange,and green ground to the body. So all pool pumps I know of only have 3 wires.(black, white, green to body) If I trace the salt units incoming house plug. The white wire from house goes to a black square 2" diameter, it also exits the block next to where it goes in, and goes to the plug on the main board, it then exits the board next to entry, and goes to motor. Black wire goes to switch, then board then motor. Green is obvious ground. Orange is the mistery because it comes out of the opposite side of the whites on the block, and goes straight to motor. So my delema is I can't figure out how to wire the 3 wire pump onto the salt unit with 4 wires? Your probably laughing cause of my laymans explanation. But I sure need help, and I can't figure out what the black square with the waxy end is, or how to hook this darn thing up. The manufacture said I can do it, but he was reluctant to help on the wiring cause he wanted me to spent 1000 bucks on his pump. Thanks for any help you can give

  • #2
    Maybe a two speed motor?A lot of pool pumps I know are two speed.


    • #3
      Ya, it probably is two speed, but it has to go, its too small. I need to know how to convert the 4 wires from the brain box for the motor, to 3 wires instead, then I can put my Hayward pump on. I know its do able, but the manufacterer won't tell me the wiring. He actually laughed at how simple it is, I just know nothing about electrical motors, so I need undo 3 wires , hook up 3 wires, so anyone who knows what to do with the orange wire, please let me know. Thanks


      • #4
        Try taping off the orange wire and see if it works.Good night.


        • #5
          Soooo, tap off the orange and abandon the white?


          • #6
            What motor Voltage?

            Was the old motor 220 or 110 volts? was it 2 speed or single speed? What was the erst of the info on the motor ID plate?


            • #7
              Old motor with 4 wires has no info other than what I said, 2.6amp 250watts. My Hayward pump with 3 wires is 1/2 Hp, 9.6amp. Both pumps just plug into the house so they must be 120 volts. I want to plug it in and test the voltage on both the white and orange wire, but I must have water circulating to turn on the unit, or the titanium plates heat up and burn up. So I must have the pump working before I flick the switch so it can have water.


              • #8
                I have more info, the old 4 wire motor is a E206505 Model 56631A 110-120VAC 60hz 3.0A T.P. , Hope this helps, there is no other info or brand, this info is stamped into the body of the motor, no plate. The motor is brand new so I don't have a clue why it has no plate or name. It must be made by Intex, the salt water system guys. The new 3 wire motor is a A.O.SMITH CORP. Thermally protected CET50ABM, Motor Mod C48L2PA105 SER OL04. Volts 115/230 , HP 1, PH 1, CODE M, RPM 3450, FR 48Y HZ 60, AMPS 19.2/9.6 , SF 1.65, INSUL CLASS B, AMB 52 C, TIME RATING CONT, TYPE UAC. Wow! Thats all Greek to me. Does this help anyone help me wire this thing up? It is all the info off both motors.


                • #9
                  I am not at all clear as to what this "brain box" looks like....... Nor if the motors and pumps are separate....with a shaft coupling between them, or if you are substituting the "new" motor and pump for an old motor and pump setup.

                  I THINK you mean that you want to use the 1/2HP motor (which seems to actually be 1 HP) instead of the 4 wire motor on the 'salt water" system, and connect that to your pool

                  Pictures would really help, words just don't quite 'do it".

                  However....... it seems you want to run the new motor, NOT the old one, and the new motor has only 3 wires, two plus the green ground.

                  As I understand it, there are 4 parts to the problem.

                  1) how to hook up the new motor.

                  2) figuring out what this "brain box" is, and whether it is important for the new motor

                  3) whatever issue there is with getting water to the pump seals.

                  4) whether this is a good idea


                  Problem #1....hooking up new motor.
                  Plainly, the NEW motor needs only the correct voltage power applied to the two wires that are not green, in order to work. Since it does not have any other wires, it doesn't need them for basic operation.
                  The only electrical issue is then problem #2

                  Problem #2....the "brain box"
                  This may be a non-issue, or not. It depends on whether the "brain box" is part of the old motor, with NO connections except power and wires into the motor, or if it is some sort of pump system control that is connected to some other safety switches, sensors, etc.

                  Obviously if it is just part of the old motor, you may not need it at all. If it is some sort of system control or safety shut-off, it may be needed.

                  Problem #3 ....priming the pump
                  I have no clue how the piping setup is, so I assume you can get your non-self-priming pump to draw water if it can be made to run. I've tested pumps like that before by just filling the case with water. They spray it out, but you can see if they are working, and shut off right away before they run dry.

                  problem #4 .... is this a good idea
                  Here we run into an issue......... A pump that works with a 1/3 HP motor of a speed we don't know, may NOT work well with a 3450 RPM 1 HP motor. It's lots more power, and may be a higher speed, besides. Just might not work well, or for long.

                  I really hate to even offer an opinion on direct hookup, because I just don't have a good picture in my mind of what the setup looks like. My inclination is to say that it SOUNDS like a bad idea. It wouldn't be so doubtful if the old motor were known to be 3450 RPM like the new one. I'd have to look very carefully at the old motor to know that.

                  Maybe you can get a bit more detailed? Pictures?
                  Last edited by J Tiers; 04-29-2009, 01:53 AM.

                  Keep eye on ball.
                  Hashim Khan


                  • #10
                    I would love to have pictures but I don't know how to do that, I can't even figure out how to open you guys pictures?? The two units are two seperate motors and pumps. THe motors are attached to the pumps by shaft and can be taken off, but cannot be exchanged between the two as the 4 wire motor is about 1/3 the size of the new motor and pump. The brain box is the brain for the salt converter and flow sensor, other than that it is just a timer to shut off the pump and turn it back on when its time to convert salt to chlorine. So the manufacturer (Laughing at me) told me I need only change the pump so when it re starts it will prime itself. I could just get another timer and have the pump run seperate and start a few minutes before the salt system, and just abandon the wires. But I would prefer to have the system run as designed and start together as a unit. When I look at it , as I explained in the first post, I see the incoming power from the plug go to the little black waxy square, then to the brain, then to the motor, but the orange wire goes staight from the square to the motor. The manufacturer said it was easy but would not tell me how, quoting liability, and his pump. So I figure if I take the white lead from house power off the black square, and go directly to the brain, then to motor, that would eliminate the square, and the orange wire. I think the square thing splits the voltage or something so the motor can maybe be two speeds, I don't know if it is. So by eliminating the black square I think I eliminate the slow speed, and just run straight 120 to the box. I think the white wire leaving the square to the brain is probably still 120 so it wouldn't matter if I took out the square. The rest of the brains functions appear to be totally seperate, as the white lead leaves the brain board and goes to a LARGE grey box filled with wax, then a big wire comes out and goes to the salt system and flow sensor, so I think the big box is supplying all the other functions, and the little black square is just for the pump motor. Sure wish I could do the picture thing. I know it would help. Hope this helps. My only fear of trying is that if I take out the black square and go directly to the board , it may fry the board if that is the low voltage line. I think it may be that simple as the manufacturer did say it was easy.


                    • #11
                      orange wire

                      The orange wire sounds like the capacitor start wire. The black box is the cap. So if your new motor is cap started. Abandon the black box and orange wire.


                      • #12
                        Just a test here to see if my posts are working now? Trying to attach pictures as well. Disregard this post, but please answer previous post. Thanks


                        • #13
                          I'm not ignoring you, I'm hoping for nice clear well-focused pictures of this "brain board"....... and the rest of the setup.

                          I'm sorry, but "square things with waxy tops" don't narrow it down much for me.

                          Not your fault, I know you are trying to give the best description you can. But a picture is, in these cases, worth a thousand words, or more.

                          Keep eye on ball.
                          Hashim Khan


                          • #14

                            This won't be much help but I think it is important... If I understand what you are trying to do correctly I would be concerned as to whether the brain can handle the power needed for the larger pump motor. You may need a relay to handle the higher amp draw. Just something to consider.

                            J Tiers, What do you think about this?


                            Happily working on my second million Gave up on the first


                            • #15
                              Ok , did some trial and error. Tested the leads with a multi meter. The white was 120v the orange was 60v. So I figured use teh 120v one for my pump, took out the black square thing eliminating the orange wire, and hooked the white directly to the brain board. As I said, it looks as if the brain is powered separate from the pump, so I wasn't too worried about frying the brain. So hooked up my motor , hit the switch, and the motor kicked slightly and that was it. So it does not have enough power after going through the board. The brain was fine, as I expected. So now my theory is, if the black wire is the wire for the main switch(being ground?) then wouldn't the brain's timer switch also run from the black wire. If so , the I can take the white wire directly from the house plug , splice it into two, put one to motor, and one to board, and eliminate the white from the board to motor. This way the motor gets straight house juice, and the spliced lead can run the board. So I need to know if the board uses the ground wire for the timer switch, or if it uses the white? I guess I can just try it now that I figured out I can run the brain on bypass so the plates don't heat up. Wish me luck. I'll wait for some responses in case some one knowledgable says I'll kill myself or something, but I think it should be a safe test.