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Can someone help me wire my pump?

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  • #16
    I would guess the 'black square' is just a thermal starter, powering a start winding in the motor via the orange wire. (This just applies volts to the start winding for a short time to get things going, then self heats and reduces the volts to the winding to a low level.) If that's what it is, it obviously isn't required for your new motor.

    if the black wire is the wire for the main switch(being ground?)
    I'm in the U.K. so I'm not sure, but I thought black was line and white was neutral in the U.S ?

    There should be no need to change any other wiring. It's not a matter of it 'not having enough power after going through the board', but whether the board can handle switching the required motor current or not.

    Is there a motor fuse on the control board ? The motor kick you saw might have been the result of the initial surge just before the fuse blew...

    Cheers

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    • #17
      The black wire is definately ground. It goes to the main switch, then the board, then the motor. The rest of the equipement all ground to the same area on the board. The white wire definetly had 120v going through it, so I can't even consider it being ground. There is also a green ground, but it is to ground the whole unit, and it bolts to the body of the motor. I'll try my theory tomorrow morning, if I don't crispy critter, I'll let ya know how it goes. thnks for the input.

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      • #18
        There is no conceivable reason that a ground would be switched.

        Take care...

        Cheers

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        • #19
          If the hot wire is switched, it sparks when you flick the switch, so if the ground is switched, no spark. No shock?

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          • #20
            Silverwolf, I am no electrician,but I think your theory is a little mixed up. The black wire should be line coming from your breaker or house plug. The white should be neutral and makes the circuit back to the plug and on through to the breaker box and you will read 120 volts on it if the circuit is made . The green is safety ground and sounds like it is hooked up right. The black wire is usually broken for switching and the white should be tied together continuously throughout the appliance. I don't know how you are using your meter, but try putting one lead on the black coming from your plug and the other on the green ground wire and see if you read 120 volts there.
            James

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            • #21
              Ok, I'll try that. You might have just saved me frying. thanks man!

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              • #22
                Hi Silverwolf,

                Please don't take this wrongly, but you do seem a bit vague on electrical stuff. Even if you do get this all working, f you don't fully understand how to connect the grounding into the pool bonding system, and test it, and how important that is, then please get some local professional advice.

                Most of us have got away with a few sparks and shocks in the shop, but pools and electrics (paticularly an electrolysis system) are a serious combination ...

                Cheers

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                • #23
                  Thanks for the tip, the only bonding it has the the GFI outlet I plug it into. the pool shed is 20m from the pool so its a matter of hooking the in pipe and out pipe, then plug it in. All I want is the salt system timer to start the pump. I don't care if I have to power the pump another way, I just want the timer. If my theory doesnt work, then I'll just put the pump on a normal timer and have it start 5 minutes early and shut off 5 min. late. As far as grounding , the only grounding is the green wire to the body of the motor. It doesn't go to a grounding rod or anything. The stock system has no ground rod either. The water actually has no way to get to the water, the pump is a seperate piece attached to the motor, and would have to split in two to get the motor wet. Highly unlikely except in winter, hope no ones swimming then

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                  • #24
                    1) If all you need is to spin the pump, and the rest of the stuff in the "salt system" is not required, that is easy. mechanically connect the shafts, and use your own wiring to run the new motor.

                    that leaves the other issue.....

                    2) if the new motor is double or more the speed of the old one, the pump may have problems. Motors are 3450 rpm (3600 nominal) 1725 rpm (1800 nominal) 1140 RPM (1200 nominal) etc. Most are 1725, so your new 3450 rpm motor is twice the speed of typical motors, which that old pump motor may be.

                    That is a potential problem. Pumps tend to be made for a certain speed.
                    1601

                    Keep eye on ball.
                    Hashim Khan

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                    • #25
                      I hear ya on the rpm thing. The salt system is a new addition. The pump running the pool is the 1/2 hp 3450 rpm motor and pump. The salt system came with a dinky pump that wasn't self priming because it is for above ground pools. No work on mine. But the salt system will work, as long as I can get my big pump to pump through it. No sweat, the plumbing is done. I just need the timer on the salt system, to start and stop my pump, like it used to do to the dinky pump that won't work. Like I said, if its not due able, then I'll just get another timer, start the pump on that timer 5 minutes before the salt system starts the titanium plate heating, and then shuts it off 5 minutes after the salt cycle. Thats easy enough too I guess, but the manufacturer said it would be a piece of cake to make my pump work, or any pump for that matter he said. But he is a dink, and would let me in on the wiring. Anyway, rpm is no issue. The issue is getting the timer to turn on and off the pump, I can get power anywhere, but how do I make the timer link? I guess I can go out and blow another 1000bucks on the salt system for my pool , but damb I love saving this kinda cash. I got this thing for 150 bucks, and the only difference is the pump. So any timer experts out there??

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                      • #26
                        Ok, what's this timer?

                        New information......

                        Sounds like the timer is part of the "brain board"........... That's kind of what I asked... is the brain an essential control or safety system?

                        Can you explain what the system is supposed to do? I have no clue what it is supposed to accomplish, but I can probably suggest a way to do it with what you have if I know what it should do (besides pump water).

                        The timer, whatever it is, presumably decides to turn the pump on and off. That means it has a relay or other item (triac, whatever) that carries motor current. if it is rated for your new motor's current draw / power, then it can run your new motor. Otherwise not, and some added parts might be required.

                        Your questions are a little hard to answer...... we (I, anyhow) don't know what the system does, we can't see any of the parts, and it's hard to get a picture from a word description.
                        1601

                        Keep eye on ball.
                        Hashim Khan

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          I've been an electrician for 20 years. I've been licensed as a master/unlimited electrician for the past fifteen years. I've been back in school for electrical engineering for the last three years. I don't know if that qualifies me as an expert or not. Opinions may vary. Regardless, based on what I just read, you need to hire or call someone in that knows what they are looking at to help you get this wired up correctly and safely. I think you are going to damage the equipment trying to experiment with it yourself and end up not saving any money at all. Probably not what you wanted to hear. Good luck

                          Craig

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                          • #28
                            Yeah, Craig is about right as we stand now. I've been doing electrical engineering for about 30 years, but I dunno from the descriptions what you've got there, and no way can I say "hook this there, and that here" at this point......

                            Not possible to understand what you are "looking at" , it you are NOT "looking" at it.........

                            Getting something to pump water is no issue. Getting it hooked up to a controller which is described (with the best intentions in the world) as various 'square things with waxy tops"...... it ain't gonna happen.

                            Pictures, pictures, pictures...

                            Even if we can't give you a definite answer from that, we can at least give you a starting point, IF we see the parts.
                            1601

                            Keep eye on ball.
                            Hashim Khan

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Thanks guys, I understand. I'll put it on hold until I can figure out how to post pictures so you guys can see this thing. I can post a link though. This is the site that sells the unit I have.(http://www.intexcorp.com/saltwater_02.html) Mine is the one on the right. You can see the difference is the pump in the middle. So I have removed the pump, removed the round filter cylinder(My pool has a better filter), and plumbed straight into were the filter hooked to the converter. The long square thing at the front bottom. So the brain is the computer thing on the left, The brain seems to be seperated from the pump , except the timer which turns on the pump and converter system. All i need is to get the timer to switch on my pump. The converter, and flow sensor( on the right of the converter, black cable attached) work independently on there own, but will be damaged if they start without any water flow. The reason I need the pump to start at the same time. The computer symply monitors salt, convertion of salt, flow rate, and times the cycle. The old pump is only 3.0 amps, and mine is 9 amps. So it does not have the power to run my pump, so the extra parts are probably needed. Although, like I keep saying, the manufacturer said it is an easy convertion, but will not tell me because he wants me to buy the alternate system for inground pools, which is identical, except for the pump, which is the 1000 buck difference. Obviously it would kill all his big pump sales if everyone new how to convert the 300 buck system. So I kind of understand. I'll try to get pictures of mine posted with the top off so you can see the wire. I'll post again when I figure it out. Thanks for all your help, you guys sure are smart, the terms you post are completely greek to me but I'm learning.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Silverwolf
                                The old pump is only 3.0 amps, and mine is 9 amps.
                                I'm confused as to which pump you are trying to replace with what and where, but I do want to point one thing out to you. As you said above, old pump 3A / new pump 9A. If the specs you posted earlier are correct, then I think your thinking is a little off. For the "new pump" you posted 120/230 V @ 19/9 A. What that means is at 120V the pump pulls 19A and at 230V the pump pulls 9A. I'm not trying to encourage you to forge ahead without someone there to help you, just trying to help you understand your components a little better.

                                It kinda sounds like you re trying to drop a 528 cu. in. hemi into a cooper mini, but as I said I'm still confused as to what exactly you are trying to replace.
                                Last edited by Craig H; 05-05-2009, 03:16 PM.

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