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Van Norman Horizontal Arbors

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  • Van Norman Horizontal Arbors

    Hi folks,

    I'm in the process of trying to clean up the horizontal arbors that came with my van norman #12. Most are pretty scarred and the centers at the nut end are oval. I'm cutting off the ends, re-centering and re-threading. The tapers seem to be off as well. When I put place the arbor in the spindle taper, I can "rock" the arbor up and down and side to side. Weird 'cause I checked the taper in the spindle nose and there is zero run out. At least when I place a dial indicator against the inside of the taper and rotate the spindle, I get no movement, even when I move the stylus up into the taper at different positions along the taper.

    You would think that even if the two tapers are at slightly different angles, when one cone meets another, the line of contact should form a circle. If the arbor taper is oval then it should "rock" in only one direction. I put the arbor in the lathe (9" SB) and tried to check the taper runout but between the bad shaft end center and the woodruff key in the taper, I can see much more that 3 or 4 thousands TIR.

    I am planning to make a new one(s). My spindle taper is the infamous 5V.

    Wondering if any of you folks have made homemade arbors and if so what material did you use?

    Thanks,

  • #2
    I need to make a couple of arbors for my Deckel so I bought a stick of 1144 Stressproof on the advise of a couple of other people who have made their own. It machines beautifully, is very strong, and inch and a half was only $130 for a 12 foot stick from the local den of thieves. Don't forget to get some 1/8th inch wall DOM tubing to make spacers out of (works fine for home shop use).

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    • #3
      I have used ordinary CRS, and 4140PH.

      Both work fine. The CRS may wear more than the 4140, but I don't expect to notice it anytime soon.

      Neither type warped enough to make any difference, particularly since I didn't do it in one cut, and I did do it between centers. And because teh arbors were short, around 10".
      1601

      Keep eye on ball.
      Hashim Khan

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      • #4
        J Tiers and Mickey D: Thank you for your advice!

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        • #5
          I made all 6 of my arbors for my Van Norman out of 4140 pre heat treated material . and usually any other arbors . Plenty strong enough.
          Every Mans Work Is A Portrait of Him Self
          http://sites.google.com/site/machinistsite/TWO-BUDDIES
          http://s178.photobucket.com/user/lan...?sort=3&page=1

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          • #6
            Thanks again for the feedback.

            I was wondering Lane if you would share what size/depth you made the countersink on the end of the arbor that is supported by the overarm center.

            Thank you

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            • #7
              Originally posted by neplantengineer
              Thanks again for the feedback.

              I was wondering Lane if you would share what size/depth you made the countersink on the end of the arbor that is supported by the overarm center.

              Thank you
              Big #5 are#6 center drill You need lots of support.
              Every Mans Work Is A Portrait of Him Self
              http://sites.google.com/site/machinistsite/TWO-BUDDIES
              http://s178.photobucket.com/user/lan...?sort=3&page=1

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              • #8
                Just a thought. Couldn't you rework the old arbor tapers by taking .030 off of the backside of the flange thickness and recut the taper to clean up?

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                • #9
                  5V arbors

                  There are so many of us out here needing/ wanting these arbors that if someone with a CNC wanted to take the time to program it to spit out 50 I am sure it would not take long to sell them if they went at a reasonable price! I need atleast 1 but would like to have several different sizes.

                  mark61

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