No announcement yet.

Another one of those "Things" has followed me home!!

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    In my experiences (two in fact) just a few miles in a grossly overloaded condition just wrecks the springs. In both cases the truck(s) never rode nearly as good again.
    One was so bad that I always intended to shop for some new springs, but never did get around to it.
    Lynn (Huntsville, AL)


    • #17
      Originally posted by Bill Pace
      Indeed those were my biggest concerns about the whole thing --- in my other life I did a good bit of mechanicing and was doing a rebuild on a Ford 361 engine. Loaded up the short block for a trip to the local re-builder just plopping it in the bed of my truck - bet you know what I said to myself as drove off -- "its only a couple miles, I'm not gonna need to go to all that hassle of tying it down" Of course at the second stop light some clown ran the caution, calling for a panic stop - I thought I was gonna have that block up my rear - put a hefty 'whang' in the front of the bed and a smaller one on the back cab wall ( and the drivers seat needing a good cleaning from soiled pants) -- Thats the reason for the 4 point tie-down on the grinder.

      That F-150 does have the 'tow package' -- not sure if that means a bit heftier spring on the back, sorta makes me think it might with that thing riding as good as it did -- any body know what a 'tow package' consists of?

      Thanks for the weight info Todd, I had told myself I didnt wanna get too close to that 2000# mark,-- I think I'm glad I didnt know the exact weight at the time. Cooling - yeah, making up a system will be simple enough

      Next, - I plan on using a static converter to supply 3ph, do I just wire the spindle & hyd pump off one unit adding the hp's of the 2 motors to get what size to get? And, in the event the existing controller for the electro-mag is kaput, can I rig up a controller with a conventional DC controller? -- it calls for 110v DC at 5amps which is well in the range of, say, a treadmill controller?
      You cannot run the grinder on a static converter. They are good for only 1 motor. Oh, it'll turn but you'll lose 1/3 of the rated speed on both motors. It's easy enough to go the extra step and build a RPC out of a static panel. 3-5 horse 3ph motors are cheap and plentiful. Any help I can offer is yours' for the asking.

      As for the controller...I have zero experience with electromag chucks. Sorry.


      • #18
        I don't think you will lose any speed per se. You will lose 1/3 HP not 1/3 speed. That's been my experience with the static phase convertor I put on my 3hp 3ph mill.
        I spent most of my money on women and booze, the rest I just wasted.


        • #19
          Originally posted by The Fixer
          I don't think you will lose any speed per se. You will lose 1/3 HP not 1/3 speed. That's been my experience with the static phase convertor I put on my 3hp 3ph mill.
          That's what I bad.


          • #20
            The notion of only loosing 1/3 of the rated horsepower is not really correct. It's probably closer to half. The trouble comes in the fact that the two "phases" you do have (since a static converter only supplies the third phase for a few seconds for starting) are not in the proper phase relationship with the motor windings. The inbound power cycles are 180 degrees apart rather than the 120 degree phase relationship of the motor windings. For so many things this does not matter. In the case of a grinder, I would be less concerned with the power lost than I would be with the relative smoothness of the running motor. Single phase motors are not typically used on grinders because they are less smooth than three phase motors. Add in the phase timing mismatch and I would imagine there could be some microphonics in the surface finish.

            On the other hand, for testing, you should be able to get by with this. You would, as previously stated, have to forget about the pump and would have to separate out it's wiring. A static phase converter is a capacitor that creates a phase shift for starting coupled with a potential relay (or a timer in some) that will disengage it after the motor is rotating. It won't behave properly if a second motor is paralleled with it...and the unit is expected to start that motor. Likely the potential relay will never allow the capacitor back in circuit.

            The good news is that a static converter can be an easy way to start an idler motor. Add an idler motor and some balancing caps and you have a nice RPC.

            Paul Carpenter
            Mapleton, IL