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  • Wiring new compressor

    I bought a Quincy 2V41C60VC.
    Single phase-2 stage-220 volt.

    I think it needs a 30 amp breaker.
    I only need to run about 35 feet of wire in 3/4 conduit.
    Should I use 10 Ga, or 8 Ga (as someone else suggested in another post)?
    The specs for compressors, motors etc., are very well hidden from the public, it seems.

    I don't see very much voltage drop, so which is preferable?

  • #2
    Wiring Simplified by Richter/ Schwan / Hartwell (available at your local Home Depot for about $5.50 US) says 10 ga is good for 2 % voltage drop at 240 volts single phase for up to 75 feet. Ugly's Electrical References ( also at Home Depot) says up to nine conductors of 10 ga size in Rigid Metal Conduit. Best to just get these books.
    Regards, Keith

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    • #3
      I have the book but between ambiguity and differing opinions, I always ask questions, anyway.

      Quincy says to use isolation pads to bolt to the concrete.
      Do most people also do that, to cut down on noise and vibration?

      Comment


      • #4
        Mine was loosely bolted to a pair of 4x4 skids and has never moved in the 2 years I've been running it like that. From the looks of the timbers, they've been there since it was new in 1983.

        I too have a 5hp single phase motor, and ran 10ga with no problem. Unless your duty cycle is high (probably not the case), you wouldn't even gain peace of mind going with the 8ga.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by ligito
          Quincy says to use isolation pads to bolt to the concrete.
          Do most people also do that, to cut down on noise and vibration?


          It will cut down on tank cracking! If you mount the tank solid to a concrete floor you risk cracking it where the mounting feet weld to it, this is due to the vibration. It will not happen quickly but it is very possible after a while and that Quincy is very likely to be running for a LONG while!

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          • #6
            Compressor wire size

            First let me say that #10 is adequate and over the years I have created a lot of problems for myself trying to terminate large wire in small pressure switches etc. ---- I would run the #8 and take it to a magnetic contactor rated for 50 amps. Then run a #14 from the contactor coil to the pressure switch and / or to a switch inside the shop for deactivating the compressor. The electrical contact points are the weak link in the chain. Contactors are not that expensive from Grainger. I like to mount the contactor in a larger old water pump control box. This can be sealed to keep out ants spiders and wasps. The whole top comes off with one screw to allow better access if needed.
            Byron Boucher
            Burnet, TX

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            • #7
              Isolation pads for the compressor.

              These don't have to be fancy. Enco sells some rubber sheet material with ribs running perpendicular to one another on opposite sides. That is what I used . Simple wooden blocks of fairly soft wood would work. I would bolt it down but just snug the bolts.
              Byron Boucher
              Burnet, TX

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              • #8
                Originally posted by ligito
                I have the book but between ambiguity and differing opinions, I always ask questions, anyway.

                Quincy says to use isolation pads to bolt to the concrete.
                Do most people also do that, to cut down on noise and vibration?
                Just throw a mud flap under it and forgetaboutit unless ya think it is going to fall over

                Steve

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                • #9
                  Byron makes a good point about the contacts in the pressure switch. I did exactly the same thing and wired a magnetic contactor (motor starter) between the line and the switch. This takes the motor load off the pressure switches small contacts and moves it to the mongo pads in the contactor.

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                  • #10
                    i left my 60gal upright on the pallet it came on, and just screwed a few hockey pucks under it. makes it a lot quieter and when i move to a bigger shop, its still on the pallet aand ready to go!!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I have a 60 gallon tank sans compressor, that I cut the pallet down to a smaller width and bolted it on.
                      The tank alone doesn't vibrate though.

                      Quincy says to bolt it to the floor on isolators, leave the nut a little loose and double nut it. Does this also sound like good advice, or should I just bolt it to the pallet in the same manner and maybe strap it to a wall?

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                      • #12
                        Most outfits don't recommend leaving them on the wooden pallet but I can't understand why not. I know one that has been sitting on the pallet it came on for nearly 18 years now and it has not been a problem at all. I have seen several more left on the pallets and although they have not been running for 18 years yet they still seem to be working out just fine. I suppose it would be a matter of just how well the pallet is built but that should just be simply a matter of inspecting the thing to determine if it is flimsy or substantially built.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by ligito
                          Quincy says to bolt it to the floor on isolators, leave the nut a little loose and double nut it.

                          That sounds like an excellent way of doing it and for a good reason, that's what is generally recommended. Actually bolting it to the floor may be a bit of over-kill unless it tries to "walk-around" when running or is in danger of being knocked over but neither of these situations is likely. If the pallet is heavily constructed of hardwood then just leaving it on the pallet would most likely be just fine but it is easy to see why a manufacturer would hesitate to recommend this, a good alternative to the pallet would be the rubber pad. If you decide to leave it on the pallet then it will be up to you to determine if it is heavy enough but if you want to do this RIGHT then follow the manufacturer's directions and you can't go wrong!

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                          • #14
                            All the air compressors that I have installed while working as a pipefitter have been bolted down to the pad they are setting on . A horizontal compressor is unlikely to tip over , but for worker safety and insurance purposes they are required to be mounted so they can not move . If you live in an area that has earthquakes then it would be best not to leave them on the skid especially if it is a vertical model as they are top heavy and more likely to tip over .
                            Vibration isolation pads help prevent stress build up in the legs of the tank but also reduce the annoying vibrations transmitted into your floor when the compressor is running .
                            One thing no one has mentioned here is leveling the compressor , since the majority of "home" sized compressors are splash lubricated then an out of level condition can effect the life span of the pump by reducing the available oil to the rod bearings . I know this sounds picky but I have seen good compressors ruined because of shoddy installation . You don't need to put a machinists level on it but getting it within the level lines is a good preventive measure when you set it up .
                            Now putting a magnetic starter on it will save your pressure switch and give you larger contact area while running . As to wire size I would go with the 8ga instead of the 10ga , if you expect long running times . But that is just me .
                            Dan

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                            • #15
                              About 10 years ago, I installed a 60 Gallon Vertical Tank compressor and it has been on the pallet it came on and that sits on top of a car tire (rim removed). Actually the tire was in great shape and free from the local tire shop with a hole in the sidewall.

                              Jeff

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