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Pinging Airsmith282

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  • Pinging Airsmith282

    Brought home an old Yamaha EF1400 genset this spring. Belonged to Grandma and has not been used for close to 20yrs. Maybe has 10 hrs on it.

    Cleaned the tank and shut off valve. Soaked the carb, cleaned the bowl, float and needle then walked the air to it.

    Will not go to operating rpm, like its starving for gas with almost a hiccup. If I choke it somewhat it will smooth out, but still not operating rpm (90-100Volts). Has a new plug. What have I missed?

    Cheers, Bob

  • #2
    Check for good compression, but I'm betting the carb is still dirty. 20 years is a long time for a carb to be soaking in varnish. Try some heavier-duty carb cleaner or an ultrasonic cleaner. Make sure you've disassembled it completely before attempting to clean.

    What does, "then walked the air to it" mean? That is a phrase I've not heard before...

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    • #3
      What you need is a highly restrictive after-muffler to reduce exhaust volume Since we have already established that the size of the hole out of which all exhaust must exit really doesn't matter, try drilling with a number 60 drill

      I agree with Tom. That carb is likely varnished inside some of it's tiny passages. I would disassemble it completely and use one of the dunk-type carb cleaners. They come in what looks like a 1 gallon paint can with a basket inside. Parts go in the basket, basket in the can of nasty stuff that will remove 20 year old gasoline goo.

      Paul
      Paul Carpenter
      Mapleton, IL

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      • #4
        Walked the air to it.
        Give it to it full blast, all you can give to it. Must be Canadian slang from my home town.

        Only at the most 10 hours on machine, how could it be compression?

        Cheers, Bob

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        • #5
          Well it probably isn't compression, but it's easy to check. I'm not entirely sure what your describing, but a lot of times the engine will start to "hunt" where it sounds like it is throttling up and then down in a regular manner. This is the sound most engines make right before running out of fuel or if running lean. This is also the sound they make if they have low compression. I had an OHV lawnmower show up at my garage from a neighbor. It was practically new but the rpm kept hunting. I thought it was the carb from sitting over the winter so I spent about 40 minutes cleaning it very thoroughly. Chucked it back on there and it still hunted. So I pulled the spark plug and checked compression - Turned out one of the nuts on the rocker arms had rattled tight and was keeping the exhaust valve cracked open.

          That's a pretty rare case, though. I suppose it is possible that there is something causing low compression in your engine, but much more likely it's a dirty carb!!

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          • #6
            how could it be compression?
            If it is iron sleeved it could be rust pitted.

            It also sounds to me that the carb is still plugged.
            Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here

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            • #7
              QUOTE
              If it is iron sleeved it could be rust pitted.
              QUOTE

              Don’t want to pull the head and that would be a last resort. Not sure if gaskets are still available for this thing.

              You guys are probably right, based on what was sitting in the bottom of the bowl. Any suggestions on a super duty off the self soak?

              Cheers, Bob

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              • #8
                Have you tried putting a load on the generator. Some have a auto slowdown until loaded. It does sound like a fuel/ air problem though.

                Bob

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                • #9
                  Bob Fastrack has it right. The varnish gets pretty hard after 20 years.
                  The fact that it runs better with the choke on is your first clue that it's starving for fuel, of course just when it is trying to run better it runs out of air too as the rpms climb.
                  Got to an automotive parts supplier and ask for the stuff you soak the carb in and they will know what you need. After it's done soaking rinse the basket full of parts in HOT water, blow dry.
                  Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
                  Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​

                  Location: British Columbia

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Quetico Bob
                    QUOTE
                    If it is iron sleeved it could be rust pitted.
                    QUOTE

                    Don’t want to pull the head and that would be a last resort. Not sure if gaskets are still available for this thing.

                    You guys are probably right, based on what was sitting in the bottom of the bowl. Any suggestions on a super duty off the self soak?

                    Cheers, Bob
                    I get my gallon can from a NAPA distribution center. I think it is the NAPA brand ...

                    As far as gaskets go, as a last resort for a head gasket, there is some copper grade RTV gasket maker that works incredibly well. Back in high school I was fiddling with my go-kart engine practically every weekend. I was too cheap to buy replacement head gaskets since I was popping the head off so often and I already had several tubes of this copper grade stuff lying around. It has now been three years since the last time the head was pulled and that RTV still seems to be going strong. This engine even had the compression bumped up quite a bit from stock. The longest it ran was 5 hours, so maybe the extended time on a genset would make a difference, but keep it in mind if you find yourself in a pinch.

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                    • #11
                      A piece of annealed copper sheet the same thickness as the stock head gasket works well too!
                      Home, down in the valley behind the Red Angus
                      Bad Decisions Make Good Stories​

                      Location: British Columbia

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                      • #12
                        Try this. It's what I have used. As mentioned, parts get water washed after soaking for a while. No water back in the solvent though....basket must be fully dry before it goes back in. They stuff may be water rinsable, but it's not water based.

                        http://www.gunk.com/CAT_CC3K.asp

                        Paul
                        Paul Carpenter
                        Mapleton, IL

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                        • #13
                          Right on folks, next trip to Thunder Bay will pick up the tear the hide off anything dope and give it a try. Had a 250w halogen plugged into it while I was testing. Funny thing, no voltage on the first few atemps. But as soon as I pugged the light in, I guess it excited something. Thanks for the tip on the copper.

                          Cheers, Bob

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                          • #14
                            Stick it in the dishwasher on the pots and pans cycle with plenty of dishwasher soap.
                            Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here

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                            • #15
                              Ahhh...the dishwasher thread I have seen potmetal washed in the diswasher where the soap is mildly caustic and it does create a bit of corrosion. Aluminum pays a price for dishwasher duty as well.

                              I would also wonder if it would get in the tiny pin-size passages long enough to soak things loose which is likely the source of the problem.

                              Paul
                              Paul Carpenter
                              Mapleton, IL

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