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opinions on "press out" operation

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  • opinions on "press out" operation

    After the 'Vector Force' thread, i started wondering if I could get that broken stub shaft out of the auger. Pic:

    The hole goes through, if I filled it w/ grease & "pressed" the grease in w/ 3 ton arbor press, what odds would you give on stub coming out??

    Gotta get the press stand finished so I can try.


    PS. thought about tapping hole for zerk or bolt to force out, it is pretty hard. Might be tap-able.
    Last edited by uute; 07-20-2009, 03:00 PM.

  • #2
    No need for press

    Often use a tight fitting plunger, grease hole up, smack with the biggest Hammer you have... Rapid application of force works better in this case...

    Make up a scrap wood miss hit protector, so you can't ding auger if you are rusty with big hammers...

    edit: make plunger out of larger stock, and turn down for bore fit. Keep turned down length as short as possible to reduce bending...

    Another option is to weld a nut on to stub, let cool/shrink, and use a slide hammer, or zerk.

    Don't know if your metal is weldable tho...

    I often use a fairly thin oil with grease on top by plunger for sealing (helps reduce trapped air)
    Last edited by Bguns; 07-20-2009, 03:22 PM.


    • #3
      Thanks Bguns, the oil under grease is a neat trick. I gotta try this just to see.


      • #4
        With ag augers, I carefully blow the welds on the flighting and remove. Then cut out the section with the stub in it and section in a new piece of tube (or replace the whole tube if it is short). Then slide the flighting back on (assuming it is in good condition still) and weld. Not sure what an ice-auger looks like, though. I guess the stub was pressed in and not welded, but I bet it's a real booger to get out.

        Oil is a slick idea (pun intended) to keep the trapped air to a minimum. I'll have to remember that one...


        • #5
          Booger it is.

          No joy w/ grease & hammer. Trapped air somewhere, prolly a nice chamfer on stub. Didn't get the sledge, but some pretty good whacks w/ 3 lb hammer didn't budge it.

          Have to think about some heat. Or maybe just think about it.


          • #6
            Another thing about using the oil is that it gets pumped into crevices good, let it set a while and try again.... Often takes several refillings

            Did I mention you can get a bit greasy ?

            Heat is always helpful, see if you can expand outer surface some...

            I often have to take out rusted turbo housing bolts, exhaust manifold bolts, and other broken and rusty things... Patience is a must..

            I have used the oil and grease trick on stuck antique engines.... Oil gets forced along piston wall and when (after a week or so of a pump a day on zerk) I start
            seeing oil at bottom of piston, I can up the activity and usually get piston out.... On pistons place an almost bore diameter slug on piston top to prevent knocking hole in piston...

            Yet another option if you have big enough equipment...

            Fit a Cathead to Auger end, put in steadyrest and drill/bore the stub out... Carbide might be needed... Stop a few thou shy of Auger bore and pick out remaining stub.

            Might be able to bore it out on a Mill also...
            Last edited by Bguns; 07-20-2009, 06:17 PM.