Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

1" tool in MT#2 tailstock

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 1" tool in MT#2 tailstock

    I need to hold a straight 1" tool in a Morse taper #2 tailstock. In a simplest form it will be a 1" end mill holder with MT#2 tanged shaft. The problem is that I cannot find one.

    Do you know who sells those? Or maybe you have a better solution?

    P.S. The tool is a rotary broach. I'm not sure I want to get involved with small tailstock-mounted lathe chucks for two reasons: concentricity problem of 3-jaw chucks / too much hussle with 4-jaw ones and cost of any of those.

  • #2
    Buy a No2 Morse blank end arbor, stick it in the headstock, bore to 1", cross drill for set screw and job done.
    .
    .

    Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



    Comment


    • #3
      Bore and clamp

      That is sure going to be one big mother of a strain on the tail-stock morse taper as well as the pin or key that is restraining the tail-stock quill from rotating. No small strain on the tail-stock quill lead-screw and nut either.

      Knocking the blazes out of the tail-stock won't help future accuracy that relies on the tail-stock - at all.

      Why not make a holder/adaptor for your tool-post with a 1" bored hole and a clamp in it at centre-height as the saddle etc. is much more robust and better adapted for this sort of thing. Or fit the bored and clamped adaptor to the top of your cross-slide - even better - if you can.

      Comment


      • #4
        Hang on, just because it's a 1" shanked tool doesn't mean to say it's imparting a 1" load.

        The OP states broach ? If it's a wobble broach it may only be a small cutter.
        I have a 3" die head on mine but it's only cutting M6
        .

        Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



        Comment


        • #5
          Fall-back options

          Points taken John.

          But the OP didn't say what size broatch cutters he intends to use. The further out from the end of the MT2 quill it is the greater the leverage on what is presumably a fairly small quill and tail-stock.

          The "hammering" of the broatch may force the 2MT taper into such a tight fit that getting it out may be "difficult".

          The final - or any - decision is for the OP alone.

          But I'd suggest having Plans "B" and "C" as "fall-back" options - "just in case".

          Comment


          • #6
            Again, jumping to conclusion without all information.

            Just because it's a #2MT does not say it is a small, light machine. I have a 1307 Sidney, yes i said Sydney. They made about 10-12 for the US Navy, and later sold the design to SB, who then made it in Korea. It is a 5hp, 13" x 20" and a #2MT, which was made as their square looking 10ee.

            Can i use a 1" tool in this machine, you bet, if your brain engaged. Also 45 years professional experience says i can.

            Comment


            • #7
              More info from the OP please

              Well,

              so far despite all the comment and guessing, the OP has not got back to reply or make us any the wiser.

              Informed comment requires informed advice.

              Comment


              • #8
                Sorry, guys. I should've been more specific. Here it is: http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=35921

                Please feel free to give your thoughts there as well.

                As for the 2MT blanks, I wasn't able to find any with the head over 1" in diameter.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by MichaelP

                  As for the 2MT blanks, I wasn't able to find any with the head over 1" in diameter.
                  http://littlemachineshop.com/product...2394&category=

                  The 3MT is 1.5"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thank you, SM, but you certainly understand that 1.250" head will be too small for a 1.000" holder. 1.500" would work, but only if it had MT2 shaft.

                    But thank you for trying to help me, anyway.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Make one. This is one I made for some project that I don't recall since I ended up not using it. No taper attachment, it was cut using the top slide in two setups. It's blued up for a test fit and the result shows more than 50% engagement which is quite good enough to hold well. The low areas are more likely an indication of wear in the tailstock quill over the years.



                      Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by MichaelP
                        Thank you, SM, but you certainly understand that 1.250" head will be too small for a 1.000" holder. 1.500" would work, but only if it had MT2 shaft.

                        But thank you for trying to help me, anyway.
                        Yep, realise that, just responding to your statement that you couldn't find one bigger than 1"

                        I have the 3MT with the 1.5", will use that to turn a 1"x8tpi spigot to take my wood turning chucks on the metal lathe.

                        If you don't want to make one yourself, you can use the LMS 2MT one as a starting point, after all they're cheap enough, and attach your 1" tool holder by drilling out the arbor and putting a tenon/spigot on your 1" tool holder.
                        Last edited by Steelmaster; 08-07-2009, 07:18 AM.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Sorry, we can bigger ones over here.

                          http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalo...ank-End-Arbors

                          Simple job to turn one up, Evan posted the basic setup above.

                          .
                          .

                          Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



                          Comment


                          • #14
                            My first glance at your post had me thinking Rota-broach, not Slater.
                            Either Hougen or Jancy, maybe both, make a 1" MT adaptor that might work for you, though they come fitted for fluid. Price might raise your eyebrows. Quality work though.
                            I'd make one as per Evan/John said.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Everyone who isn't actually a machinist seems to try to avoid that "impossible task" of turning a decent taper. I have seen all sorts of complicated schemes to avoid the taper, many having MORE critical turning tasks than simply turning the taper.

                              When you actually have the target taper ON THE MACHINE, it is dead easy to set up, there are no alinement questions, you just set it up in the taper example on the machine with compound adjustment and a decent DTI. For the tailstock that means you will set up and cut from headstock towards tailstock, but that is not a big problem. Unusual, bit not a hanging offense......

                              Or, of course, you can set up on an example taper, i.e. drill shank, drill chuck adapter, etc. Either way, make sure the DTI is on-center.

                              While you have the set-up, you might make at least one other of whatever it is, if you have the slightest idea that you may want it later. You can turn just the taper part, and leave the rest rough.


                              As for the strain on the tailstock, that is a complete non-issue. For most any larger drilling job from tailstock, you would naturally brace the drill... the most convenient way is to put on a lathe dog and rest the tail on the top of the compound T-slot area.

                              If you do that, the issue of the ram pin etc pretty much disappears.

                              If you are really concerned, you can actually put flats on the adapter, and use a wrench or similar as the bracing part, for positive anti-spin protection.

                              It might be worth making a toolpost support bar, so that you don't need to remove the toolpost, you'd just slip in the support bar. It probably would look something like a woodturning tool rest.
                              1601

                              Keep eye on ball.
                              Hashim Khan

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X