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Level Calibration

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  • #16
    Fasttrak. Yup. Any form of glove or heat insulation. One of my old mentor glued leather from old belting on the handled part of his level (an antique looking Pratt and Whitney. Looked like a bridge truss.

    I often used cotton gloves or taaped felt to it or maybe a couple of shop towels. Anything that prevents direct skin contact. Most levels have a stout hunk of plastic as a vial bezel.. It makes a good insulator for handling if you can get a reliable grip on it.


    • #17
      Really enjoyed the post. I bought a coubeled up machinist level and did not know how I was going to make sure it was level. This post did the trick! Thanks Fred


      • #18
        Thanks for the advice in this matter. For all reguarding how to touch and use of gloves please refer to the pictures in the original post. That's a 12"x12"[email protected]" cast iron frame that I intend to touch only at the top rail for repositioning.

        I do like the Level In The Vise method and may give that one a try. I was going to use the mill table, but it's full of Kurt Vise and K&T dividing head which I don't want to disturb.

        The 1st use of the level will be to set up a Bradford Model 16 Metalmaster lathe, which has 4 leveling pads on each end. I'm fairly comfortable doing 4 levelers, but don't know how to manage 8. This will be presented in another thread to keep this one focused on the level. Keep it coming, all good stuff.


        • #19
          I calibrated survey equipment in the past.

          You might consider making your own adjusting pin. The wrench in the photo I believe is stamped from sheet and the capstan nut has a round hole. Looks like the wrench has already been used. The "C" spanner may not need to be used if the holes are deep enough. I made my own adjusting pins by grinding down music wire to the size of the hole to be used in as who knows what size it is supposed to be. You can check with various drill bits. Too sloppy and you oblong the hole under a lot of pressure (unsure of nut material in photo, could be blackened brass). It shouldn't be extremely tight.

          I would also think about loosening the nut to check for function to see if it runs up and down on the thread easily. In doing this you can put some denatured alcholol or acetone on the thread in case they put some lac on the threads for a locker and helps lube the thread while doing it. This will help to not fight the mechanics while adjusting.


          • #20
            The wrench doesn't fit well enough to use. A pin would be better.