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Prepping concrete floor for paint

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  • Prepping concrete floor for paint

    I'm refinishing my concrete floor in my basement for my "mini-shop". It had carpet down, and the buttheads that owned the house before us installed the carpet with what I believe is a urethane glue.


    I've tried everything short of the expensive stripper they sell for it, simply because it will cost me almost 120 in stripper alone to remove the crap from the floor.

    Thus far I've tried steaming hot water, hydrochloric acid, soap and water, alcohol and acetone. The hydrochloric acid helped loosen it up, but it still took a lot of backbreaking labor with a putty knife to get the crap up, and there's still some there.

    The only thing that is working reliably is a 4 1/2" angle grinder with braided wire wheel attachment...but god is it slow.

    I want to put down the two part epoxy paint down there, just so it's easy to clean. Half will be my dog room, the other half will be my office/electronics/cnc lab.

    This crap is killing me.

    The lady at the home depot rent a tool place tried to rent me a floor scrubber with hexpin attachment, which I'm sure will work...but it isn't cheap, not cheap at all.

    Need some ideas.

  • #2
    I had the same problem with adhesive from old vinyl tiles prior to painting a basement floor. I used stripper to clean it up although I could have rented a diamond floor grinder. Both are expensive, time consuming and messy. Sorry but you're going to be tired, poor and have a little less free time this month.


    • #3
      Hammer and chisel, inexpensive but slow.


      Rent a floor sander, ( but don't tell them what you're doing with it ), use the most course belts available. The hardwood floor contractor I worked with would use this for carpet mastic and stuck-on fossilized rubber padding. It will be noisy and it will smell, but you can complete it in an afternoon.


      Appearance is Everything...


      • #4
        Gary's right on the money. A belt sander will essentially roll the stuff over onto itself and peel it off your floor. I've got some residue left from sticky tiles and that's how I'll be dealing with it.


        • #5
          how many sanding belts will i use?


          • #6
            I had to strip a floor of carpet glue once, with a wire cup wheel on a 9" grinder. Three of us worked for a couple of days and it was hard-going until we discovered one of the wheels was much softer wire than the rest. This took the glue off many times faster than the stiff-wire ones.
            Peter - novice home machinist, modern motorcycle enthusiast.

            Denford Viceroy 280 Synchro (11 x 24)
            Herbert 0V adapted to R8 by 'Sir John'.
            Monarch 10EE 1942


            • #7
              So why waste the time removing the goo? Just put down a nice hardwood floor - you'll need a good anti-static flooring in the electronics area anywho.


              • #8
                I had a similar problem when I took up old carpet before putting a new
                floor down. I rented a "floor machine" and the rental shop sold some large VERY coarse sanding disks that you use with it.


                It didn't take very long. It does create a lot of dust. It was a learning experience to steer the machine! You may still need to use a hand grinder
                for the corners.


                • #9
                  I agree with the wooden floor, concrete is bad news for the human back. I did concrete then overlaid a wooden floor it is very nice now in the machine shop I went straight to wood .It really cannot be beaten.A cheap floor of even particle bopard on top of the concrete will be the answer to your problems and will give comfort for years to come.It will look good too.Alistair
                  Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by bob_s
                    So why waste the time removing the goo? Just put down a nice hardwood floor - you'll need a good anti-static flooring in the electronics area anywho.
                    Can't bond thin-set to goo.

                    Mine was from sticky tile removal. Granite tile going down this time.


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by bob_s
                      you'll need a good anti-static flooring in the electronics area anywho.
                      Which a wood floor is NOT. Not by a long chalk.

                      However a concrete floor IS nice and anti-static.... especially if you do not paint, seal, or in any other way bother it.

                      Leave the floor concrete everywhere, and toss some rubber mats down to stand on. I painted the laundry floor, and some other areas of the basement, but NOT the shop or the electronics lab.
                      CNC machines only go through the motions.

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