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  • How to use Coaxial Indicator

    I purchased a coaxial indicator and would like to know how to set it up.
    The directions are in Chin-english, and they don't make sense.
    The dial doesn't seem to move more than about 25 thou. Is there a lock screw that releases it?
    (what do you expect for a cheapo?)

  • #2
    You're talking about a Blake clone, right?

    That screw that holds the pivot arm should have a pair of brass washers on either side of it. I'd loosen it, remove, clean and re-install the washers.

    The general idea is that you attach the stop bar (that keeps it from spinning), and select one of the probes that reaches the hole or cylinder you want to indicate.
    Make sure the spindle is clear (!), and run it at about 500 - 700 RPM. Move the table feeds until you minimize the runout.
    "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

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    • #3
      Probe

      Do not try to insert a rotating probe into a hole. I use my Blake at around 100 rpm and that is after rotating the spindle by hand to be sure things free. Then move the X and Y axis to get the indicator to the minimum point. I use a corner chair (magnetic double edge finder) and set my X and Y axis to zero from the corner of the vise which is fine for many jobs.

      JRW

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      • #4
        Most of the import units are shipped with a split protective plastic ring/collar around the unit to limit indicator travel. This must be removed prior to use.

        Fred

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        • #5
          Originally posted by lazlo
          and run it at about 500 - 700 RPM. Move the table feeds until you minimize the runout.
          Yeow!! Geez, I cant imagine running it that fast! I'm like JRWilliams and run mine at 100 - or even less, all it needs is a gentle sweep around the perimeter. Would think it would be dificult to follow the needle and make the X & Y adjustments at that much rpm.
          If everything seems to be going well, you have obviously overlooked something........

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          • #6
            likewise.... and slower. I start very slow (VFD), but rarely go over 60 rpm even when it nicely centered. .

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            • #7
              Its the plastic collar like stated above. Awhile ago I posted a link to a site that had a video of how to use one. If you search here for my name and indicvator and video I bet you'll find it...

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              • #8
                Be sure and oil the thing between uses,they will get sticky.3-1 or sewing machine oil works for mine.
                I just need one more tool,just one!

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                • #9
                  ahidley,
                  You certainly hit the nail on the head! Removed little green plastic sleeve and it works nicely. thanks!
                  I would like to know how to set it up with minimal jockeying around. How do you initialy position the arms in relation to the hole you want to center on?

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                  • #10
                    Heres The Quickest Way To Do It!

                    I dont' often speak w/ such pronouncements, but allow me...

                    lower the indicator such that it is just above the hole/boss you're indicating. spin it by hand. eyeball it in the x direction one side, then the other. adjust. repeat. then y. adjust. repeat. lower it into the hole/over the boss. Rotate by hand, comparing value for x left/right. adjust halfway. same with Y. maybe do it a couple of times. engage the spindle and run it at 500 rpms and tweak it such that the needle stops vibrating. If it takes you any longer than 2 or 3 minutes, you're doing something wrong.

                    Disclaimer: I only know what I've taught myself. I could be way off accepted practice.

                    -Phil

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                    • #11
                      I get it close with an edge finder. Eye ball the center on one axis, find the edge, move to what should be the center from that edge and find the edge on the other axis. Now move back to what should be center from there and repeat the process. That usually gets you well within .010" and I switch to the Co-ax. From there I just treat it like dialing in a four jaw chuck. Work one axis, then work the other, turning by hand. Then I turn it on and make sure. It took a lot longer to type this than it does to get a part centered.
                      Stuart de Haro

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                      • #12
                        If it's like most home shop use of one, follow the 8 steps below.

                        [1] Unpack co-ax and gloat
                        [2] Try to read Chinglish instructions
                        [3] Post on 5 forums that you have this in the hopes that someone will give the secret away how to use it.
                        [4] Try to decipher the 28 ways you have been told as to which way is best.
                        [5] Attempt to try all 28 to check.
                        [6] wind table al the way down so the co-ax will fit, setup, remove and wind back up to cutter hight.
                        [7] Do this 23 times then visit Accident and Emergency with co-ax elbow disease.
                        [8] Get home and put co-ax on a shelf until needed for pictures for helping next user out.

                        .
                        .

                        Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



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                        • #13
                          While I have little good to say about the Chicom Co-ax's, the Blake is a good unit. The Chicoms are variable, good ones are OK, bad ones do not last too long.

                          Sir John does not like them, objecting to their length. This is only a minor problem if a bit of thought is applied. Keep in mind that the stylus is removeable and most mills have a moveable quill.

                          Most of the cranking up and down Sir J refers can be avoided by diligent use of these two facts, the work piece needs to be lower than the overall length of the Co-ax less the stylus to facilitate removal once center has been located. This length can, in most cases be accomodated by the quill movement. The stylus can be removed with the Co-ax in place. If a DRO is in use, it can be zeroed and the table shifted to accomodate removal. It need not be as onerous as SJ describes.

                          They do have theri drawbacks, but are very useful in many cases.
                          Jim H.

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                          • #14
                            Dang! Yesterday I didn't even know what they were. Now I want one!
                            The LMS special isn't helping my condition either.

                            I tell ya it's a sickness.

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                            • #15
                              I use one once 3 years ago. Got everything all set up, took the indicator out , put in my tooling, spindle would not reach work. Have not used it sense. New still in the box.
                              Gary Davison

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