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Want to make sure I did this ok...

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  • Want to make sure I did this ok...

    This is for my 2 stage electric motor driven compressor which was plumbed incorrectly.

    Above is the new pressure switch and an old stand in pressure gage

    Above is the check valve... the check valve has 2 holes.. on fits my new safety valve (is that right?) and a hole on the otherside..dont know what the hole on the otherside is for hook to the unloader on the pressure switch?

    Above is the out end...

    Above is the drain...

    I will love to hear any suggestions/recommendations or to what I have done wrong..

  • #2
    Can't say yet, you haven't included pictures of the pump and assembled piping to tank. Back up with the camera and give us an entire view.

    Last edited by HSS; 11-01-2009, 06:56 PM.


    • #3
      Normally your drain if you are using it for venting your compressor of water would be located at the lowest point of your tank,otherwise you run the risk of retaining water in your tank.


      • #4
        drain pipe is only location... I will put the pump in its position and ad a pic


        • #5
          Cuemaker, did the drain location have a diptube?


          • #6
            You want the filter unit at the end of the pipe range.

            There should be a riser pipe from the comp ...going through the wall then up 7 feet or so on the outside.

            Black iron pipes should be lead along outside wall at above head height..with a fall leading the way to the take-offs.

            This will help separate out condensate ..

            Most of the water will condense in the riser ..running back to the tank for you to drain off.

            Other water will condense in the pipes that have the fall ..and run down to the take offs........the vapour separator will hardly have any work to do.

            Most of my water condenses in the riser ...with the above method ......

            I only get an egg cup-full in the filter separators units after many hours of use.

            Your filter separator relies on mildly warm air being spun against the side of the sides of its collector ......having it directly mounted on the comp tank .you will have hot air ..and no separation going on...because it will soon warm the vapour separator no dew point.

            My method uses the whole of the pipe work cooled outside the workshop to do the separation .

            all the best.markj


            • #7
              Originally posted by HSS
              Cuemaker, did the drain location have a diptube?
              Sure did.. unclogged no less


              • #8
                The first photo shows a tee with two females and one male. Is that how it came, did you modify it, or did you modify an elbow to make it?

                Any products mentioned in my posts have been endorsed by their manufacturer.


                • #9
                  It came that way... I didnt have a whole lot of options on t's, but now that I will be ordering a part or 2, might as well order the correct one


                  • #10
                    Have you turned the pump sheave by hand yet? I noticed you have it removed. I think you need to assure yourself where the discharge of both cylinders are. You can do that by turning the pump by hand, before you connect any tubing and see which opening the air is coming out of. The intake of the big cylinder is where you removed the filter and the discharge is the tall outlet of that cylinder. The intake of the smaller cylinder should be the opening where you have the copper connected in the last picture and the discharge will be the tall outlet of that cylinder. But make sure by turning the pump before connecting tubing.



                    • #11
                      Pressure switch location


                      Your pressure switch if i see correctly, has a bleed down feature. That is to let the pressure out of the charge line from the compressor head(s). This makes it easier for the pump to start the next time. Basically the same as a decompressor feature on diesels and older gas engines.

                      I would do the following as well: (if possible)
                      1)Put the drain in the lowest point of the tank
                      2)Any release valves should not be exausting anywhere you MIGHT be facing
                      3)A vavle to shut off the tank from the rest of the air lines.

                      This list is to be added to the other suggestions.

                      Good luck



                      • #12
                        As he stated in previous post, there is no lower opening to the tank. Where he has the ball valve is the drain port. There is a dip tube that goes to the bottom of the tank (I hope it goes to the bottom) at that opening.



                        • #13
                          I am ok with the pump and where it all goes on the pump.. it all makes sense to me...

                          I am worried about the safety valve location (is it ok coming out of the check valve?...and I will set up more safely) and how to hook up the unloader valve on the bottom of my pressure switch.. does it really go into the other side of my check valve? Does it going to the check valve make sense?

                          Here is a pic of the original set up when I aquired it..


                          • #14
                            The piping as shown on the last pic is not correct. It has the discharge of 1st stage connected to discharge of 2nd stage, and intake of 2nd stage connected to tank. That is why you should turn the pump by hand and see where the air is going in and coming out.


                            • #15
                              You know more about your tank than I do, Cuemaker, but you are asking for trouble to run without a properly located drain valve. As it is, eventually the tank will be 1/2 full of water, and you will have no way to drain it.

                              In your climate, you're going to have to fix that sooner or later. I find it hard to believe that it does not have a bottom drain, assuming it is the original tank. I'm wondering if a previous owner took a vertical tank and laid it horizontal ?

                              Anyway, it needs a drain on the bottom. The politically correct method is to buy a new tank. The politically incorrect method is to weld a bung on the bottom of the old tank. However, you didn't hear it from me, because welding on pressure vessels is risky. Especially if the bottom is already rusting on the inside as is probably the case.