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Tailstock Rant

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  • #61
    Outside the box and the square

    For those that may have forgotten - or side-tracked themselves - or perhaps inadvertently tried to divert or hi-jack the thread (again?), the OP is here:
    Originally posted by dockrat
    Tailstocks seem to be the topic today so in keeping with that, here is my tailstock rant. My lathe is a chicom BVB25L (Tiffie, it’s the same as yours) As a hobby lathe it is adequate except for the tailstock. Whoever designed it for this lathe should have it tied to an ankle just before he goes for a swim. The saddle on this lathe is so wide that the tailstock will not reach across it . In order to use the tailstock I have had to add an mt2 to mt2 adaptor. So although I get no rotational deflection I do get lateral deflection. A few pictures to show you what I mean.

    Here is the tailstock right up against the saddle with the ram retracted:

    And again with the ram at full extension:

    The ram with the adaptor. Way too unsupported, hence the deflection.

    What a POS eh? One day when I feel capable to do so, I am going to bite the bullet and cut off the top of that tailstock and try to make something better. John, Brian, Anyone??? Have you got a good design???

    For Dockrat (Ernie)

    To recap - here are the previous links to my lathe - wide flat face on the top of the cross-slide and all:

    Now to move on-wards:

    This is how mine is and some of the things I've done or considered with my lathe - which as you say - is similar to yours.

    Rather than be limited to just addressing the tail-stock I decided to just address drilling holes in the lathe as well as turning small lengths and see where I went or got to from there.

    Here are some comments and links to my pics. There are a lot of pics and at a maximum of four images a post it would be a real PITA - especially for those with slower connection.

    So bear with me.

    Here is my lathe in the situation you are concerned about. I have no problems here.

    I bought a "Quick Step Mill" from UK for my lathe as I intend to try it out with thread milling - with it set over for the thread helix angle and not. It is mounted in my lathe tool-post but could be mounted on my cross-slide as well. It has ER-20 collets and 90 speeds and lots of "grunt" for a small-ish machine and motor. I bought it for thread milling as it can be tilted for the thread helix angle etc. etc. It has the capacity to do a lot of drilling work that I may otherwise have to use my tail-stock for/with.

    Cross drilling:

    Doing the tail-stock drilling"

    Tilted as for thread milling:

    The belt (3 speeds) and gear-box gear change (3) = 3 x 3 = 9 speeds:

    Gear shift (3 positions):

    ER-20 collets (1>13mm in 1 mm steps):

    The tilting "quadrant" (plate) - held in lathe tool-post:

    Other views:

    I thought of modifying or adapting my "John Stevenson Special" spindexer with its C5>ER-32 collet adaptor as well (bought from Arc Eurotrade (UK). There is no reason that this won't work as it could act in place of the tail-stock as the collets will handle anything from 2mm (~0.080") to 20mm (~0.800"). In this use there is no need for the tail-stock as I can feed the drills etc with my lathe carriage - as long as the lathe bed will allow:

    An over-view of my lathe:

    As the Quick Step Mill has an excellent ER-20 collet system and a very good spindle as well as a top speed of 4,000RPM (no "typo") it will also works pretty well as a tool-post grinder as well.

    I hope this helps.


    • #62
      Originally posted by oldtiffie
      That's one helluva nice job TT. How well does it work?
      Thanks for the kind comments. It works very well indeed - there was some concern originally about vibration because I used steel instead of cast iron, but I have not found the steel to be a problem. Maybe it's because the cast iron bed dampens any vibration, or maybe it's just because it is so much stiffer than the original...


      • #63
        Thanks Tiffie,but

        Tiifie, thanks for your input. You have done some neat mods on that lathe!! I am quite happy with mine also except for the one issue with the tail stock that you didn't address. That is the issue of trying to start a cut when the carriage is up against the tailstock. I am sure yours is the same and I wonder how you overcome this. On mine I would need almost one more inch of quill extention. See the following pic.

        Note that the quill is at full extension, the compound is back as far as it will go, and the saddle is right up agains the TS. Now look where the cutter is. I would need to move that cutter back another 3/4" in order to start a cut. Hence my rant
        Ernie (VE7ERN)

        May the wind be always at your back


        • #64
          Power drilling attachment pics

          Here are a couple of pics of my power drilling attachment, something along these lines might help with some of dockrat's problems but not the one of starting a cut from a centre. A LH tool would help there, but might mean changing tools partway through a cut. Can the QC post be turned to any angle? if so, that can sometimes help with tight situations.

          The cross slide has a vee groove in either edge, this serves as a dovetail for locating & clamping the bracket.
          The bracket is parallel bored, with a screwed cotter clamp. The sleeve is an old tailstock quill, turned down to fit. The lathe makers supplied an MT holder with ejecting screw, that was missing when I got the lathe and a new one is silly money. I find the drift ejection serves perfectly well.
          The parallel bore is also handy for holding die boxes etc., using simple split reducing sleeves.

          This one shows the indexing stop:-

          You just clamp the bracket to the cross slide, somewhere near, then wind out the slide until the two blocks make contact.



          • #65
            Not ideal if you need to turn upto a 90 shoulder, but why dont you twist the toolpost to the right?

            Just south of Sudspumpwater UK


            • #66


              My reply would have been the same as Tim's.

              Rotate the tool-post right/clock-wise which will move the point of the tool right as well and will get your cut started.

              Try using the tool in the tool-holder on the front of the tool-post.

              If you have to re-start/"pick-up" the job and use several cuts along its length - well that's normal and just the way it is. You should be able to do that within "tenths".

              That sort of "stop - move back - re-start" a cut is the classic way of countering a taper in a lathe.

              Its not the "journey" - the way you do a job or how you get there - that counts, but the "arrival" - how the job finishes - that does count.

              If I have time today, I will "dummy" your set up, take a few pics and post them.

              There is no reason why you can't use or modify Tim's set-up and mount a centre on an adaptor on your cross-slide, lock the cross-slide and saddle and use your top-slide/compound-slide to turn the job (set it at zero). Depth of cut can be regulated by clamping the tool-post (not too tight!!) and "tapping" it to rotate the tool-post slightly on the top-compound slide to vary the depth of cut. It seems a bit "Heath Robinson" but with a bit of care and patience (and luck?) - it works.





              • #67
                Tiff-Dave you guys are right. There are many work arounds and I have used them all to get the job done in spite of the short tailstock but your all missing the point of my rant here. I wasn't whinning because I couldn't get the job done. I was whining because why couldn't they design a tailstock with one inch longer reach so we wouldn't have to jump through all these hoops to get the job done. I think I am starting to sound like my wife here. "All I want is one more inch"
                Ernie (VE7ERN)

                May the wind be always at your back


                • #68
                  As always Tiffe I am impressed with your work. Also texas tornado nice job on the headstock and tailstock too.I would have been temted either like Evan (since you have the skill) to make a lathe from scratch. also Johns device using an existing 5 c collet to take on a new life of it's own I have one of his for using 5c collet chuck which I have with a D1-4 camlock now I can use E R 32 collets in it too you guys keep me and everyone else here young. Alistair
                  Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease


                  • #69
                    How about turn the compound and slide the tool post over closer to the TS end? Still square to cut to a shoulder, and as long as the compound doesn't foul the chuck, should give you back full range. Or is that one of those with the stud and no adjustment? Even then, you could kick the compound a bit past 90* to the other side and then extend it flush with the end to get that last little bit closer to the TS.
                    Last edited by BadDog; 11-10-2009, 06:34 PM.
                    Master Floor Sweeper


                    • #70
                      Originally posted by tdmidget
                      There are a lot of "common" terms". Being "common" does not make it correct or acceptable.It could be that one of the differences between a HSM and a professional is knowing the terminology.
                      Or it could be that someone is just determined to try to force useage of the one term he knows.

                      My LeBlond manual describes it as the 'spindle'.
                      This link shows it as 'barrel' or 'spindle' or 'ram' or 'shoot', tho the picture just shows the first two terms:

                      This link (referring to Southbends) uses the term 'spindle' (see part no. 201)

                      "Quill" to me describes a housing through which a rotating spindle runs, e.g. a Bridgeport mill quill or a drill press quill.
                      Lynn (Huntsville, AL)


                      • #71
                        Back to basics

                        Originally posted by dockrat
                        Tiff-Dave you guys are right. There are many work arounds and I have used them all to get the job done in spite of the short tailstock but your all missing the point of my rant here. I wasn't whinning because I couldn't get the job done. I was whining because why couldn't they design a tailstock with one inch longer reach so we wouldn't have to jump through all these hoops to get the job done. I think I am starting to sound like my wife here. "All I want is one more inch"

                        Thanks Ernie.

                        Impo(r?)tent things first.

                        Was that "one more inch" meant to be longer, diameter or circumference? My problem was not so much getting it in as keeping it in. Sometimes it was or like a clapper in a bell.

                        Now that we have got back to basics and have addressed the really important (impotent??) issues - let's get back to the lathe.

                        When I first used a lathe in my pre-apprenticeship Trade/Technical School days - age 11 - 61 years ago - we used the classic "lantern" type tool-post - which did the job nicely - just as it will on your job. The "lantern" TPH held the tool on the axis of rotation of the tool post on the top-slide.




                        • #72
                          LOL ya had me laughing with that link!!! What a great response!!! Another 1/2" would have done it. Too funny
                          Ernie (VE7ERN)

                          May the wind be always at your back


                          • #73
                            Laughing it off

                            Glad to help Ernie.

                            I do hope you didn't "end up" (and succeed in??) laughing your cock off!!!


                            • #74
                              Hmmmm What is wrong with Baddog'sdea? I too wondered why tthe compound is parallel to the z axis. Turn it 90 degrees and slide the QC where you need it.


                              • #75
                                Tailstock Rant

                                I know I'm a late contributor to this thread its because I have been having problems downloading this website has is been going wrong or is it my computer? Anyway here is my way or getting the topslide close to the tailstock with minimum overhang and a long 5" tailstock travel. Obviously a bit to drastic a mod for a normal lathe but it works well.