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  • morris taper

    I,ve got an old drill press whose chuck uses a morris taper that is worn so much that the chuck falls off when you release presure . Any quick fixes?

  • #2
    Do you have a same size Morse taper that is in good condition? It doesn't matter what it's for, you need to determine the health of the socket in the spindle. Blue up a good taper using a Sharpie and insert it lightly in the spindle. Rotate it back and forth a little and remove it. this will show how well it seats. If the socket is scored or otherwise damaged that needs to be fixed before you do anything else. That requires a Morse taper reamer of the correct size.
    Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here

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    • #3
      quick fix is alluminium foil .

      all the best.markj

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      • #4
        Also, after placing the chuck in the socket press it in against a block of wood.
        Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here

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        • #5
          I am wondering, do you mean a Morse taper socket in the spindle or the nose on the end of the drill spindle? If it's the nose of the spindle it is not a Morse taper, it's probably a Jacobs taper. If it's a socket in the spindle it could be a Morse taper.

          Which are you talking about?
          It's only ink and paper

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          • #6
            here's a selection of morrises









            all the best.markj

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            • #7
              I see this is your first post, Wood470, so welcome to the forum!

              Don't be offended if this seems like really basic info. Based on your name and mis-spelling of "morse", I suspect that you may not be very familiar with metal working and all the associated info that goes along with machining.

              For instance, the morse taper is a self-holding taper, but to be self holding the socket and taper must be clean and dry - no oil! Sometimes things can get oily, especially if it is an older style drill press with oil cups or oil fittings.

              Then, the taper must be firmly seated. Pushing the whole assembly together by placing a block of wood on the table and running the quill down is one method.

              If this does not take care of the problem, the next step is to assess the condition of the socket and taper. Visually inspect both of them and feel inside the socket with your finger. If it is badly scored, this will prevent the taper from holding well and in some cases it may prevent it from being seated (when the socket becomes scored, it may result in a raised burr that prevents other tapers from seating completely).

              As Evan says, the proper way to do this is using "prussian blue" (an oil based paint) or "high spot blue", "bearing blue", etc. These are marking compounds that can be applied to a master taper. Alternatively, a blue sharpie should also work and is probably easier since you won't have to worry about applying too much.

              The idea is to gently insert that taper and rotate it. In a perfect fit, the marking would appear as a uniform brownish. (Well I don't know about the marker, but my high-spot blue turns brown under pressure). In a not so perfect fit, there would be brown spots, blue spots and clean spots. The clean spots are where there was a slight fit and the blue was just wiped off. Blue spots are low areas where there is no "fit" and brown is where there is a tight fight.

              I suspect your problem is in the socket. It is probably pretty worn and needs to be cleaned up with a morse taper reamer. These can be found at places like www.use_enco.com. If you search the forum, you will even find a free shipping code for orders over 25 dollars.

              <edit> Found it: PFSNOV
              Something like this (what size is your taper? MT 2 or MT 3 seems pretty likely):
              http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...&PARTPG=INLMK3

              http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...&PARTPG=INLMK3

              If you don't want to go through all this trouble of testing, I suggest that you purchase a new morse taper (i.e. a new adapter for the drill chuck) and insert it into your DP. If it still falls out, then you can be reasonably certain that the problem is in the socket. If it doesn't give you any problems, well then you just solved your problem.

              (Here are some adapters: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMK32?PARTPG=INSRAR2 )

              <edit again> Just re-read the post and agree with Carld. We need to know whether the drill chuck is falling off a taper or whether a taper is coming out of a socket. Usually the chuck has a JT socket and the spindle has a morse taper socket. Then, those adapters go from the spindle taper to the JT taper.
              Last edited by Fasttrack; 11-16-2009, 06:17 PM.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by aboard_epsilon
                here's a selection of morrises









                all the best.markj
                Love that 1000 but havn't a clue to the other two. :-)
                ...lew...

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                • #9


                  Frank Morris
                  DZER

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                  • #10
                    Gee Mark- you missed the picture of morris the cat. I was envisioning him standing there with a big fat head and tapering towards the - other end.
                    I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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