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solder? screw? rivet? Attaching this to that

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  • solder? screw? rivet? Attaching this to that

    I'm working on a project in 1"x1"x2" bar - a little plane. For the plane iron's bed, I need a rectangular hole about .125"x.25" running through the block in the 1" direction. It seems much easier to make the plane in 2 pieces and join them together to make the whole. Making the bed becomes nothing more than milling a slot with 1/8" endmill.

    Once the slot is milled I have to attach the .75" thick piece.

    Can this be soldered? Screwed? Riveted? Back up and find a way to make the square hole in the solid block?

    I don't believe the plane will require maintenance so I'm leaning toward riveting. But soldering sounds interesting also. Ideally after polishing the seam would be invisible no matter which method is used.

    I'm thinking of using cast iron, brass, or 1018, in that order.


  • #2
    I would use counter sunk rivets as you might have more control on placement. Once sanded flush they would be invisible and easily removable if need be.
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    • #3
      For precise positioning you use dowels, to hold the two parts together you can use rivets or screws as you like.



      • #4
        How about making it as one peice and finishing your rounded slot off with a file?
        Play Brutal Nature, Black Moons free to play highly realistic voxel sandbox game.


        • #5
          If the endmill will do it, that would be preferred. We're talking about milling a slot that's 10x longer than the diameter of the tool. I don't think I have a file as small as what we're talking about. I could make the slot a little wider (3/8" instead of 1/4") and not have to clean it up at all as long as there's 1/4" of flatness for the iron.


          • #6
            For sure, I'd mill the slot and file to finish the ends. It would be a quick and easy process, and any slight unevenness of the slot would be cosmetic. Don't have a small enough file? Get one - you'll have uses for it later, maybe even on this project.

            As to the material - I have a number of tiny brass planes, and they really work well. I'd use brass because it's fun to work, and it takes a nice polish.

            Frank Ford


            • #7
              I agree with Frank that brass would be a fine material, and a classic material to make a small plane from. But if you wanted it to look slick with no obvious fasteners, I'd silver solder it.

              Mill the slot in one block, but leave that block slightly oversize by 1/8 on the other 2 dimensions. Solder on the "cover" piece cut to the same oversize, then mill the whole piece to final dimension on the faces with the joints. Done right and polished out, you'd need a magnifying glass to see the seam. Use jewelers quality silver solder, not the plumbers garbage.
              Location: Jersey City NJ USA


              • #8
                Really Tidy "rivets"


                Look to the bottom right image and expand it. Threaded fasteners with a hex drive that is machined off after assembly - low distortion and accurate as long as you get the order of ops right!

                Check out Mr. Holtey's blog for a good time!!


                • #9
                  I was thinking along the same lines as gellfex. I had a metal working class in college and we used real silver solder (not the junk at Home Depot). If the pieces are well fitted the joint will be almost invisible. In fact, I'd say it WILL be invisible unless you have a magnifying glass and go looking for it. We used to join all kinds of metals, nickel, brass, copper, etc. and the solder worked perfectly.

                  andy b.
                  The danger is not that computers will come to think like men - but that men will come to think like computers. - some guy on another forum not dedicated to machining


                  • #10
                    Use a 1/2 inch endmill

                    I am finishing up two Norris pattern planes from iron castings. I'll add photos later. To cut the slot, I tilted the base of the plane up at 47 degrees to make them steep angle planes and milled into the base from the top side. The bottom of the end mill cuts the surface that the plane blade lays on. The side of the end mill cuts the ends of the slot and the chip clearance side. The width of the slot is controlled by how far you let the corner of the end mill pass through the base of the plane.

                    Once the hogging out is done, you can switch to a smaller end mill to clean up the radii on the chip clearance side and then finish off with a hacksaw and file to finally square up the sides.

                    A good site to look at is the Fine Woodworking site as they had a good article in their eletter a couple of months ago about making wood body planes by sandwiching up three layers with the top and bottom layers actually being the sides of the plane and the center layer being the slot section. Kind of turning your original idea on it's side. Then you can solder, dowell or bbolt the assembly together and not have to do any cleaning up on the slot. Another wood body approach is to make the body of wood and then cover the sides and base with brass sheet - often called a wood infill plane.

                    I'll also add photos of a simple angle and depth adjuster I cooked up for the Norris planes.


                    • #11
                      silver solder (like 8x the tensile strength of solder) then finish; face, grind or file. no need to be super worrisome about alignment and you'll be hard pressed to see the joint