No announcement yet.

Identify this Bridgeport Mill

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Identify this Bridgeport Mill

    Gentleman, I have the opportunity to acquire this machine however I am not familiar with the particular model and details that I should know about. So with that said, from the attached photo below:

    What model is it?
    How old is it?
    What advice can you offer on checking for wear?
    what issues may arise in repairing and or restoring it?
    what about tooling?
    what about those vices?
    power requirements, I'm not sure if it's hooked to an (inverter? 3phase/2phase)

    I have not gone to actually see machine yet, all I have is this photo.
    It's in a basement, I will need to take it apart to remove it.

    what to offer, fair price range depending on typical wear, problems, etc.

    Many Thanks

    Randy T

  • #2
    The one you're looking at isn't quite as old but here is a great writeup on a rebuild.

    How much is it worth?....probably between $500 and $2000. Condition? Does it run? Noises while running? Where are you located?

    Do a search for "inspecting used bridgport"


    • #3
      It seems to me I remember there is a date stamped ion the tag right in front of your face. Try looking there. I might be wrong and someone will surely tell me so.
      It's only ink and paper


      • #4
        Looks like a standard 1J with step speed but a really short bed ?
        or is it my eyesight?


        Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.


        • #5
          You can find the age here (you'll need the serial number):

          You can find more info here:
          I found a manual here and it has part breakdowns / accessories... find the
          picture that looks like yours. Sorry didn't have direct link. Dig around on that site.

          In general, give it a good once-over for the obvious. Run all the parts through their travel and back again (table, knee, quill, etc etc). See what the backlash is like on all axis. If you can, try to get a feel for how much adjustment gib is left.

          I learned most of this the hard way -- kicked it and, when it didn't fall over, bought it. I lucked out on most counts though turned out there was a bit more wear in the ways that I could've probably saved a few more dollars.

          Good luck.


          • #6
            Originally posted by John Stevenson
            Looks like a standard 1J with step speed but a really short bed ?
            or is it my eyesight?

            B'ports were available with tables as short as 32", next up was 36". That looks very short and is possibly the 32" table. If that is the case, price should be reduced to compensate for it as it is quite limiting on work that can be done on the machine. For comparison, the standard table is 42".
            Jim H.


            • #7
              If all the tooling comes with it, including the DRO, 2 vises, power table feed and perhaps a bunch of other stuff, that really makes a difference in the value.

              You have to check how much play is in the handles: 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn, etc. of backlash. If these are tight, it is a good sign. The small table is a limitation, but for a hobbyist perhaps not much of a problem.

              Look for scraping marks on the ways. If some are still visible, this too is good. The more, the better.

              See if it runs and/or makes funny noises.

              I also see a collet rack with collets, lamp and a quill stop hanging on it.

              Two nuts on one vise indicate some kind of clamp set.
              VitŮŽria, Brazil


              • #8
                Looks to be about a 1960-1962 Mill.
                32 inch table (18 " of travel but I don't know with PF what it is ?)
                DRO "X" scale is 36" I bet
                Has a 9 inch knee and is the original Column that was used with round overarms.
                That means the spider is clamped from notches and not from the top
                This is extremely close to my mill as you can see.
                Mine is a composite of two machines
                Mine has the original ( 1943) Column , Knee and table , with a 1965 J Head Dovetail Ram adapted to it ( drop in, no mods req)
                I have the US Motors pancake and yours is the Westinghouse version, which I believe makes it older than mine.
                It still has the old style "OIL" zerks ( not grease) for table/knee lub.
                Lots of guys used grease, which was wrong , or they did not ube the machine which causes wear.
                It looks heavily used --- Knobs missing on the reversing switch and the top spindle pulley disengagement cluster, and the motor belt tightener.
                What is a little weird to me is the table drive seems to be a later model ??

                I would want to know if the power boring feed works
                I would guess about 1K in value, assuming lots of wear. and the DRO's work.

                by the way, I love a short table for model work as it allows me to sit on a stool and reach all the handles

                The serial number is on the head, right in front , but is painted over on yours.
                Its right behind the black knob in the middle of the head on my pisture.
                The Machine # is on the knee. Lift up that rolled rubber chip cover right above the Y axis handle, and slide the leadscrew cover plate back to read it.



                • #9
                  Double post
                  Last edited by Rich Carlstedt; 12-22-2009, 07:18 PM.


                  • #10
                    mill age

                    I am with Rich on the age judging from the power feed I would guess it's a late 60's model. Could be a good old mill. As with all machines its not the age that matters its the hours of use and abuse that count. I have seen times when I would choose a 10 year old over a 5 year old.
                    Visit my site for machinist videos free charts & more

                    Machinist Classifieds Free Listing


                    • #11
                      Just an aside,
                      There are two machine numbering sequences, not the heads they are totally different and can't be tied to machines as some machines had 2 and even 3 heads and some heads were sold as aftermarket units.

                      Genuine AMERICAN Bridgeports have the number on the front as Rich says.
                      The licensed machines made by Adcock and Shipley which usual had a plate that read Bridgeport by Adcock and Shipley as shown by the recent picture posted of my machine by Lazlo.

                      These machines have the serial number on the inside of the column door. These are totally different from the published last and the month and year are the last 4 or 6 numbers [ need to check tomorrow ] so on the licensed machines you can see at a glance how old it is.


                      Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.


                      • #12
                        No Problem w/ a shorter table.I have seldom needed a longer one at at home.
                        Check for wear on the knee-saddle interface.
                        If it is worn, OK, the less wear the better.
                        Mine has wear but works great.
                        If it is grooved and gouged and roughed up, take a pass. There are better mills out there.
                        The Serial # is on the front of the Knee, on top in front.
                        Do a search for Bd'pt serials on line. There are charts available.
                        Check for the operation of the downfeed engage and disengage.
                        They are sometimes finicky.
                        If the machine is in a hole in the ground (basement), it is worth less.
                        K Lively


                        • #13
                          The short table kills the price,not much commercial value in a 32" table.
                          The paint is average,assuming no outrageous wear and smooth spindle bearings and assuming the DRO and powerfeed both function it would fetch $1200-$1500 down south here.Beware of hidden damage,quill feeds,back gears etc.

                          If the person insists on top dollar I would insist on seeing it all running,singing and dancing first.
                          I just need one more tool,just one!


                          • #14
                            Thanks again to all, I'll be going on the 31st to take a look at the machine, see it run, get all the numbers, etc. In so far as dismantling it to get it out of the basement any advice? I think I'll be sliding or dragging it up some stairs.

                            Thanks again

                            Randy T


                            • #15
                              Do a search on here as dismantling these has been covered before. They break down into 5 large lumps, none liftable by one person but it does make them more manageable and safer to move as each lump has a far lower centre of gravity than the whole.

                              Knee mills are an accident waiting to happen given the hight and weight and the small footprint. Buy or hire a folding engine crane and it will make life very safer.

                              Don't be put off too much by age, condition is far more important. I checked the plate on mine yesterday and it was made in April 1973, didn't realise it was that old but it depends what it was doing all it's life. I know where mine came from but I don't know it's working history.

                              Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.