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Would like the best bang4buck on 5C collet CHUCK

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  • Would like the best bang4buck on 5C collet CHUCK

    I know that next to What is the best lathe to buy? type questions, this one must be next.

    I'm looking at one on CDCO.Com for $139.00 and $14 shipping. Anyone familiar with it? I won't be using it on any NASA space projects. They were out, looked at my gear and said they didn't need that high a quality on their projects

    I have a set of 5C collets by 32s and would like to make better use of them. My lathe 3 jaw chuck is getting pretty ratty.

    I would appreciate any suggestions you have for a back yard mechanic.

    Last edited by Your Old Dog; 12-27-2009, 07:40 PM.
    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
    Thank you to our families of soldiers, many of whom have given so much more then the rest of us for the Freedom we enjoy.

    It is true, there is nothing free about freedom, don't be so quick to give it away.

  • #2
    Iv heard those require you to turn the key about a 100 turns to get the 5C collet in all the way, Better get the 3/8" square drive bit for your cordless drill

    the more popular design AFAIK is a throughhole drawtube.

    Or nn the cheap, how about just a square/hex 5C block? usable in the mill, usable in the lathe chucks, can be used for offset turning on a 4 jaw chuck..

    Also, its pertty easy to make your own collet chuck. Basicly you just need to make a 5C taper, a taper to fit your spindle registration on the same peice, then a long draw tube with some kinda handle and thrush bushing or bearing against the back of your headstock. Lever actuated designs also exist but seem to need rather precise adjustment of the collet 'depth' in the cam to get it to properly tighten.
    Play Brutal Nature, Black Moons free to play highly realistic voxel sandbox game.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Black_Moons
      the more popular design AFAIK is a throughhole drawtube.
      A hand-wheel draw-bar collet setup is a great weekend project, and you'll end up with way better runout than a cheap Chicom collet chuck, IMHO.
      "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Black_Moons
        the more popular design AFAIK is a throughhole drawtube.
        -Not if your lathe only has, for example, a 1-1/2"-8 threaded spindle, with a 3/4" thru-hole.

        Yeah, you can get 3A or 3J or whatever collets and still do some teeny collet work, but you'd be limited to about 1/2" stock.

        Can't say on the CDCO or other cheap 5C chucks, as I haven't used one. I considered getting one a few years ago when I had a 1-1/2"-8 Logan, but ended up selling and trading up before I did so.

        Doc.
        Doc's Machine. (Probably not what you expect.)

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        • #5
          5C chuck

          I have an ER-32 similar chuck from either CDCO or Little Machine Shop and am very satisfied with it. I can't see that the C5 will not be as good. My mil;l uses the ER-32 collets as well in my MT3>ER-32 collet adaptor.

          I take mine off my lathe and fit it to my rotary table or the mill table as required. It certainly expands the use of the collets.

          If I were using C5 collets, I would not hesitate to buy that adaptor.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by oldtiffie
            I have an ER-32 similar chuck from either CDCO or Little Machine Shop and am very satisfied with it.
            Don't know about Little Machine Shop, but folks here and on PM have complained that the runout on the CDCO and 800Watt ER collet chucks was really bad -- as in, 3 - 5 thou runout (!)
            "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

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            • #7
              As suggested above, the spindle size of your lathe is an important consideration. If it's large enough (MT 4+ or so) to swallow an adapter and the 5C collet, then a drawbar can be cheaply made and give great acccuracy.

              Also to be considered would be a Hardinge-Sjogren type chuck, bought used, for around $200 or so. These will want a fairly stiff spindle due to the overhang, but you can usually adjust them to within a few tenths and collet changes are fairly quickly made (unlike the type noted at the top of the thread).

              The imports, like those noted at the top of the thread (or the much more expensive Bison), seem like they'd be a good deal if they provide either a way of adjusting the concentricity or return priveleges. Changing collets will be a bit slower than either a manual drawtube or Sjogen type.

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              • #8
                I have the CDCO unit on my 10x24 Rockwell and I'm happy with it.
                It's mounted on the 1-1/2 - 8 threaded backing plate, also from CDCO, which I tapped, turned and faced to fit.
                I use it with collets I bought from ENCO so I know I won't be doing any work for the Bureau of Standards but it does the job.
                Paid with PayPal.
                Total with shipping for chuck and backing plate less than $200.
                Illigitimi non Carborundum
                9X49 Birmingham Mill, Reid Model 2C Grinder, 13x40 ENCO GH Lathe, 6X18 Craftsman lathe, Sherline CNC mill, Eastwood TIG200 AC/DC and lots of stuff from 30+ years in the trade. Now I boil oil

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                • #9
                  Thanks guys. I should have mentioned I have a SB9 Mod A with a 3/4" hole in quill. I want the 5C chuck as much for working small (short pieces) stock with my 1/32 5C setup. I think I have a 1 1/2" x 8tpi mount.

                  I do have a pretty complete set of 3C for the SB9 but as mentioned by someone else, I'm restricted to 1/2" sizes.
                  Last edited by Your Old Dog; 12-27-2009, 10:18 PM.
                  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
                  Thank you to our families of soldiers, many of whom have given so much more then the rest of us for the Freedom we enjoy.

                  It is true, there is nothing free about freedom, don't be so quick to give it away.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The Asian models are a copy of the earliest Bison.The later Bison version is lighter,shorter and features adjust-tru as a standard feature.They are also steel and the Asian models are semi-steel

                    http://www.workholding.com/BISON-SUP...ADJUSTMENT.htm

                    I suppose you could buy the Asian and modify it to be set-tru.
                    I just need one more tool,just one!

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                    • #11
                      I bought a CDCO and got it to .0005'' run out.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by wierdscience
                        The Asian models are a copy of the earliest Bison.

                        http://www.workholding.com/BISON-SUP...ADJUSTMENT.htm
                        The Bison also specs a max 4 tenths runout

                        I have several Bison chucks and endmill holders, and they're very nice, with much better runout than the cheap imports. Another case of You Get What You Pay For, IMHO...
                        "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by PeteM
                          As suggested above, the spindle size of your lathe is an important consideration. If it's large enough (MT 4+ or so) to swallow an adapter and the 5C collet, then a drawbar can be cheaply made and give great acccuracy.
                          for the record, a MT 4 1/2 is the smallest that a 5C will fit inside....me thinks that's why they made them and they're so popular....
                          .

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            You could still make your own 5C chuck that just sits outside the spindle, and insted of using a draw tube, use a draw bar (Could be a tube that couples to a bar inside your chuck, to allow some room behind the 5C collet and retain depth stop capability.

                            Likely cheaper and end up more concentric (since the 5C taper can be made while its mounted as a chuck) and easyer to use.

                            PS: Never buy anything from 800watt, his feedback is very low (97% or something? I never buy from anyone lower then 99%, idealy 99.5%+) and there are many storys of his stuff being really poor quality.
                            Last edited by Black_Moons; 12-28-2009, 12:30 AM.
                            Play Brutal Nature, Black Moons free to play highly realistic voxel sandbox game.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              YOD:- I have one of those units from CDCO and really like it. However, You MIGHT consider a kit of the Pat Loop chuck from Metal Lathe Accessories in Pine Grove Mills PA. It would be more work, and less money, if lathe work is what you want to do. Just a thought. Duffy
                              Duffy, Gatineau, Quebec

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