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  • Way O/T

    I have a Toy built tiller that is so old that it doesn't even have a serial number on it. It was passed onto me from my father.

    Here's the issue'; To my knowledge, the head has never been removed since manufacture and now I've a blown head gasket. I'm primarily concereed about the head bolts and I'm concerned in terms of the head bolts and not to either strip them or worse yet break them over.

    I've been hitting the head bolts with both PB Blaster as well as Kroil, yet me head bolts just won't budge.

    Advice from anyone is sincerely appreciated.
    John B

  • #2
    Re: Frozen Bolts

    In many cases, rusted bolts can be convinced to break loose by a sharp rap with a hammer on the head. I can't say that this will work on head bolts that are torqued to spec but on general stuff it works well. I had an exhaust bolt on a lawn mower engine that was rusty and tapped into an aluminim casting. I soaked it with Kroil and gave it a couple of whacks with a hammer and it let go with only a little struggle. Best of luck with it.
    Jim (KB4IVH)

    Only fools abuse their tools.

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    • #3
      Hmm, Troy Built tillers are good. Is it an old Briggs & Stratton cast iron engine?

      Anyway, using a penetrating oil and heat may get them loose. Just heating up the cap of the bolt will help. Putting a flat faced punch on the head of the bolt and hitting it a time or two will help. Do those for a week or two and keep testing to see if they free up don't get in a hurry you have to let the penetrating oil seep into the threads and that takes time. When you put them back use anti seize on them.
      Last edited by Carld; 01-02-2010, 12:42 PM.
      It's only ink and paper

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      • #4
        I'd be amazed if this wouldn't do it. It's the kind of hand impact wrench used on motorcycles. Should be 1/2 drive and will fit your socket set. Very handy tool to have in your drawer. If you're not familiar with them, you whomp on the blunt end with a small sledge hammer and it jars the bolt loose. Usually about $15.00 I think.

        - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
        Thank you to our families of soldiers, many of whom have given so much more then the rest of us for the Freedom we enjoy.

        It is true, there is nothing free about freedom, don't be so quick to give it away.

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        • #5
          Does it look like this?


          circa 1937
          Any products mentioned in my posts have been endorsed by their manufacturer.

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          • #6
            The problem is that the actual threads are nowhere near the head of the bolt, so the penetrating oil isn't getting on them. The thickness of the head is in the way, so penetrating will be painfully slow.

            You might get better results by carefully digging away the gasket from the side of as many bolts as you can, and hitting them THERE with the oil. Might not work on some gaskets, and you don't want to burr up the surfaces.

            Even starting the oil in from the side might make it work faster.

            heat helps, if it runs you can heat it up by running.......... and then hit the heads of the bolts with extra heat
            1601

            Keep eye on ball.
            Hashim Khan

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            • #7
              Just had a similar problem with a Tech engine.

              Rocky's struggle

              The head bolts pass out the bottom just a bit (between the cooling fins) and pick up all sorts of crud and rust. Those that didnt pass through the bottom were close and rusted anyway.

              Only two of the bolts I was removing stopped part way up. And I hat to say it but they tore the threads the rest of the way up. I drilled them threads out and put helicoils in. Then, because of the gasket failure that I had, I checked the head for warpage and found some. After I worked that out, I reassembled and it is working fine.

              Try the Jtiers method to start and see what you get. Clean out the cooling fins and look closely between them. You may see the bolt ends hanging out or even see the bottom of the holes for them. Put liquid penetrate there as well.

              Good luck.

              rock~
              Civil engineers build targets, Mechanical engineers build weapons.

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              • #8
                Try taking the spark plug out, cranking the piston over to TDC and shoot some PB Blaster into the chamber. It'll get it closer to the threads than putting it on from the outside. Still might take a while....

                Craig

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                • #9
                  I have used an air chisel with a blunt end to vibrate stuck bolts. Hold the chisel tight to the bolt and lightly vibrate it for a minute or two it has worked good for me in the past.

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                  • #10
                    you can also use and impact gun set it at 1 then work your way up as needed, same idea as the hammer impact tool that your old dog posted ,

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                    • #11
                      If you can't get the bolts loose and don't want to strip the threads, try cutting off the bolt heads with an abrasive cutoff tool (mine uses 3" disks) to remove the cylinder head. Then, place a nut over the stub of the bolt and weld it on. Let it cool, and wind out the bolt.

                      The heat, then contraction breaks the rust loose. I've never had this method fail to remove a broken-off bolt or stud. By cutting off the bolt head, you're ahead of the game because you have a good stub sticking up to weld to.

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                      • #12
                        I have gotten an awful lot of such bolts loose by a combination of long-term soaking with penetrating oil (I like Kroil), heat and shock. It seems crude but a heavy drift and a hammer as big as you can swing easily will nearly always do the job. Don't just rap on it, hit it like you are trying to drive the bolt into the head! An air hammer also works good if you can keep it pressed hard on the bolt head. This seems to literally compress the metal to allow the shock to loosen the locked threads far below.

                        A hammer operated impact driver helps, especially if you put a nut in the socket so the hammer blow is transmitted to the bolt head. Be sure to use a good fitting six-point socket to help prevent rounding the bolt head off.
                        Don Young

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                        • #13
                          I appreciate all the feed back Guys. When I looked at my original post, I was appalled with my spelling. Just goes to show that when one has the flu that it's probably not the best time to tackle some things.
                          John B

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                          • #14
                            Mess with a lot of old hit & miss engines, flathead Fords ect. What works and has never failed me is heat the bolt with torch then apply candle wax to head of bolt. For some reason the heat wicks the wax into the hole and the threads, lubing the threads and allowing you to back the bolt out.

                            THANX RICH

                            People say I'm getting crankier as I get older. That's not it. I just find I enjoy annoying people a lot more now. Especially younger people!!!
                            People say I'm getting crankier as I get older. That's not it. I just find I enjoy annoying people a lot more now. Especially younger people!!!

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                            • #15
                              Are you turning the bolts the right way? (just kidding) I don't blame you for not wanting to break a bolt off in the block. It will be a real pain, but if you drill the heads off of the bolts, pry off the cylinder head you can deal with the stud that is left much better. It will probably take as much time to do that than it will be to drill out one 5/16 broken bolt. Stan

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