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hauling a bridgeport

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  • hauling a bridgeport

    Would removing the head, and table from a bridgeport be difficult? I want to put one in my garage, but am concerned about hauling it in my 3/4 ton f250, and unloading it with my engine hoist. I was thinking that if I took it apart it would help.

  • #2
    On the chaski site
    there used to be some pics of a guy who hauled a B-P AND a shaper in a small trailer, lifting the bridgeport with a 3 ton hoist (derated since the B-P was lighter than that).

    Can't find them now.

    But it worked OK for him, and didn't strain anything.


    • #3
      I pulled mine (intact) on a borrowed 14' trailer, and paid a wrecker about $35 to lift it off and swing it into my garage. Worked smooth as silk.
      Lynn (Huntsville, AL)


      • #4
        I have always hauled my BP's in my F 100 and now my F 150 (6 cyc ). Even hauled a Tree mill in it which outweighs a BP. I would think a 250 could handle it.
        Question is how far ? I did the Tree for about 25 miles and never went over 30 MPH.
        Also what version BP..If it is a CNC version, then the weight should concern you.

        Remove the Ram and head and you lose about 500 pounds and only face 1500 to 1700 depending on the model. The table will run another 300 or so.
        My buddy used my 1/2 ton chain fall on his Tree, and that was a little scary, even without the headstock, so we switched to a 2 ton come-along
        Watch out when using a engine hoist ! and nevr move the hoist...always drive under it and away from it after the pick..seen many a mill tipped...


        • #5
          John Stevenson wrote a nice step-by-step list of instructions and posted it here a couple months ago. Use the search and I am sure it will show up.--Mike.


          • #6
            A 250 will haul a J-head fine(2200-2800lbs)all you need to do is crip up the floor with some 2x planks to distribute the wieght over the sheet metal bed bottom,if you can load the mill with the table toward the back of the truck and the back of the column casting up agianst the back of the cab so the truck will be loaded evenly,tie it off all four ways to the top of the bed pockets.

            It will also help if before you load it you crank the table all the way down and turn the head upside down,this will put the gc lower to the base.

            So long as you take it easy and don't get in a hurry it sould work out fine.

            As another option u-haul still has some single axle 3500 trailers for rent.
            I just need one more tool,just one!


            • #7
              A 3/4 ton PU will haul most any BP sized turret mill but it will be a bit high in CG. Dial the head around on its knuckles so its tucked under the ram as mmentioned earlier. This will reduce roll coupled oscillation but still, keep your speed down.

              I lift up to 3000 lb with a single chain hoist to a bail welded to the center of a 4 x 4 x 1/4 wall box tube 4 ft 6" long in the overhead spanning the chords of four trusses.

              No home shop should be without basic weight handling equipment: a 1 ton chain hoist several short (10 ft) lengths of 1/4 chain with grab hooks, a couple of bottle jacks, a half dozen lengths of 4 x 4 cribbing, a half dozen lengths of 2" pipe. Alternatively an engine hoist with good casters. With this you can lift and move most anything in the home shop.

              I have quite a collection machinery moving stuff which is why I get calls on Saturday morning: "Hey what's your truck doing today? Got a couple of chainfalls? Want to earn a free breakfast?"


              • #8
                Mud, I hauled mine from Salt Lake City to Cheyenne at posted speeds, in a 3/4 ton without a single hitch. Even got better mileage loaded, heading east with tail wind. Lots of air in the tires, block it like Wierd suggests, then run like you stole it. Just don't stop or start too fast...
                I'm here hoping to advancify my smartitude.


                • #9
                  I'm not sure what the side load capacity of the bed pockets on a standard pickup truck is. I think if you ratchet down on the bed pockets I think the truck sides would bend in. I would want to tie down to something that wasn't made of thin sheet metal. If you have to make a sharp turn on the road to avoid something I wonder how much flex there would be. This is where a flat bed has an advantage, if done properly . Also if you use a chain or a strap with a hook, it may come unhooked if the mill can rock because the sides of the bed flex and cause slack in the tie down.

                  The driver that I hired to move my mill was an idiot, and I was very stressed through the whole ordeal. It was a 1-ton flatbed with overload springs. The trip was about 70 miles. When the guy drove up he seemed to be expecting me to just tell him where to go and pick it up and bring it back. I explained that I had to pay for the machine so I was going along. The guy had his kid and dog with him and the staked sides. I told him we didn’t need the sides but he needed them for his dog. We rode up and that’s when I could notice the age of the truck and the wear on the tie rod ends and ball joints. The guy kept his big black dog on his flat bed in unbearable heat. At the destination the seller loaded the BP CNC Rigid Ram on the truck, the driver started tying it down while I was settling the bill. When I looked over his tie down job I noticed that the mill was probably 14â€‌ off centerline and it gave the truck a definite tilt. That’s when I made a comment to the seller that I wasn’t sure the guy I hired was very competent. That’s when they said you might be right because he is about to tighten a chain down across those pristine ways. Also he had his tie downs going over the staked sides and they were flexing in considerably. In the most diplomatic way I could, I convinced him that we needed to center the machine and not tie it down across the ways. He unenthusiastically agreed and then untied it again and we nudged it with the forklift to center it. Then he tied it down again, over the staked sides just like I told him not to, and he chained his dog between the mill and the cab in about an 18â€‌ space. We argued some over it but he insisted that he knew what he was doing and he threw every tie down he had on it (5 or 6.) It was harrowing driving through the mountain canyons. The guy was a terrible driver in traffic. He wouldn’t pay attention to traffic or anticipate and he was slow reacting and a non stop talker. We made it though and the dog survived but the mill wasn’t in the same place where it started and some of the tie downs were missing. Some may have popped off from the flexing of the staked sides and chafing on the edge of the mill table cut clean through one three-inch strap.
                  After unloading and paying the driver, I was completely stressed out and I needed a beer. I hope I never see him again.
                  There are many things that I should have been more been adamant on. Next time I’ll know what I am getting into and I’ll get some competent help.



                  • #10
                    I modified the stake pockets of my F250 with some unistrut and swivel lift rings(Carr-Lane) bolted through into the sides. Used the 3/8" thick ones on the four corners and put two 1/2" in the middle. I use notched 2x6s to keep the sides from flexing as I dog the binders down. I found that this works great for most jobs and comes in handy for keeping other things from sliding on me. I also use the back corner rings as an aid in getting up into the truck on those days that my abused body complains. I plan to install some floor mounted tie-downs bolted through to the frame when I get around to having the bed sprayed with that rhino liner stuff. I had done this with my old F150 and moved a bunch of over weighth stuff without it shifting. Just be safe and take your time when you load or unload and make sure that someone is there with a phone in case the worst happens.


                    • #11
                      Spence, people like that have a way of making it through this life okay, they do however cripple everyone around them. Most are in construction I think. I think of that on every crane lift around me. Stupid people hurt people.

                      Moving my bridgeport:

                      The dovetails on the head of my bridgeport head allowed lifting, I placed two twoxfours under them to stop any scarring.

                      WE had a fork lift and set it right onto the truck, after cranking the table in and down as far as it would go. Unloading was accomplished via a wrecker to pad in front of the door and worth every penny. I had to lay the head over to get it under my shop door.

                      I used 3" race car ratchet straps, don't think one should move unless you have the proper rigging. (rent it) NOTHING across sharp edges, even chain... I used padding around the head to hook to.. Hooked high, hooked low, ratcheted to eight different points, machine never moved..

                      Once inside, I drilled holes in the concrete floor, dropped a bolt through a chain, hooked a winch to it and pulled it into place.. IT is not anchored at the moment, I really see no need to.. I have tried to kick it over once thou.

                      Hauling was accomplished with a Hertz box truck with catipillar blower motor.. whoo hoo.. I loved that truck. I think it had a 12 or 15 speed automatic, something that shifted gears every ten feet in Washington DC.. got 20+mpg going up there empty. less loaded.

                      I love my bridgeport machine, relate the small tools I had before to masterbation sex. Whoo hoo.. I discovered girls.. Ha...

                      David... gotta jet...

                      My bridgeport is down due to a bad motherboard from Intel.. intel processor, I bought the best....

                      [This message has been edited by ibewgypsie (edited 10-17-2003).]


                      • #12
                        Mud. Some very good advice here. The only things I'd add are; use a piece of 3/4 inch plywood on the bed of the truck, cut to fit snugly, and once the machine is in the bed block the base in with some 2x4's screwed to the plywood. Get the best ratcheting hold down straps you can buy and snug that thing down like your trying to push it through the truck bed. Slow for the turns and take em wide. Good luck.


                        • #13
                          Mud, guess I'll throw my $0.02 worth in also. After your loaded and ready to roll, stop after 15 to 20 miles and double check straps, binders, what have you. I check everything every time I stop. And speaking of stopping, if you're rolling 70 MPH,so's that mill. Plan ahead, way ahead and easy on the curves and turns.

                          John B

                          [This message has been edited by jr45acp (edited 10-17-2003).]
                          John B


                          • #14
                            I will keep the CG low as possible,Rotating the head, cranking the table down, etc, and strap it down on the most Heavy, low to the ground rental trailer I can rent.I will bring friends,and drive slow...
                            You guys are great. Im confident now that this is going to go smooth. Oh Yeah!!!


                            • #15
                              Does anyone know the weight of the parts of a Bridgeport?

                              That is, if you dismantle it, what would the weights be for each part? Or maybe a better question, what would the heaviest part weigh?

                              How feasable would it be to dismantle a mill like that? Would it be a nightmare to reassemble and get it back to spec?