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  • how is the plate attached? threaded on?

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    • Yes, its harrison's 1.5" 6tpi threaded threaded chuck fitment. So some faceplate's and a smaller 3jaw chuck and various other old harrison l5 chuck fitment pieces I have around screw onto the int40 adapter which has the register they are designed to mate up with.
      To get the compound angle set accurately I clocked up a iso40->mt3 tool in the 4jaw and adjusted it concentric, then used a clock along the taper to ensure I had the compound set to as near as possible the same angle. The markings on the compound say 8 degree of taper after this.
      I tested it for fit with some blue in the socket of my universal mill head, and its got more contact than the commercial mt3 taper tool I compared it to.
      Because the original lathe mandrel design was a screwed fitment, it was possible to take a light skim off the flat face of the register on the spindle and ensure everything was true and plane. So I put the tool in my mill and clamped a lathe tool in the vice and replicated the same thing on there.

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      • A quicky Milling Machine Accessory. Got tired of clunking around with that vice handle.



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        • Excellent idea, Hammerfest.

          That may be reason enough not to occupy the table front-edge slot with a DRO scale!

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          • And I'm going to use that R8 tooling rack in the background as well!!

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            • I made this press chuck for my hydraulic press a bit back, the tooling is made from old car halfshafts turned and ground to shape to press motorcycle crankshafts apart. It's pretty simple, it is just a bush that fits over the pusher pin on the press and takes 20mm diameter bar, and a lockbolt is provided to stop the tool dropping out before the load is applied.


              While my compound was still set up for the 40int toolholder I built, I made a press tool with the same taper on for it, the ridge is at the width of a 40 taper just before the end, so push it through something into the matching die till the ridge and you have a tapered formed hole to fit a toolholder.


              Someone gave me a steel office cabinet with decent shelves, I drilled holes the diameter of the small end of my taper tool at intervals then pushed some toolholder shaped holes in the shelf with it and the press to make a toolholder shelf. I may add rails to the shelf so it can be pulled out of the cabinet like the real very expensive ones. For now it does what it says on the tin, holds and sorts my 40 taper tooling with cone shaped holes.


              Might make a morse version for the lathe tooling organizer now.

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              • Originally posted by Wheels17 View Post
                And I'm going to use that R8 tooling rack in the background as well!!
                Looking at that.
                Do you have to screw / unscrew those studs in the tail every time you change a holder ?
                .

                Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



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                • They are simply 7/16-20 bolts that I hand tighten, nothing fancy here just a plain old piece of aluminum angle 3x3 and about 20 minutes and your done. Keeps stuff from getting banged up in a drawer.



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                  • Sorry that would drive me mad having to keep screwing these in and out.
                    Here's mine.


                    The bottom one is a plastic commercial one from J&L which works OK for empty collets but not full ones or tall ones or it doesn't rotate because it hanging off the pivot bolt.

                    So I made the upper one out of 6mm laser cut steel and held it from below. Open keyhole slot round the outside so you just have to lift the collet up to the waisted section and it then pulls out. Because the weight of the collet is enough you can leave cutters in without them sliding back thru so all the popular sizes are already racked up to save many minutes over a week on jobbing work.

                    Bigger heads sit in holes around the centre.
                    .

                    Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



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                    • Here is my handle holder .not near as nice but works.

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                      • Rick,
                        ,I'm 5-7. A lot handier for me .lol

                        I use to put the 3/4 wrench for the draw bar up there. Dropped it too many times. Fixed that too.
                        Last edited by j king; 02-24-2013, 09:21 PM.

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                        • Not pretty, but

                          I needed to drill 100 holes in thin brass strip. 1/8" holes in each of 1/5" x 0/5" x 0.0625" straps. I milled this out of a piece of scrap aluminum bar.

                          The specs on the brass pieces and the placement of the holes is "not too short and not too long, with the holes eyeball centered." The biggest problem is keeping the swarf from backing up in the stop ledge. A toothbrush worked this time.



                          A bit out of focus, but you'll get the idea.


                          I might later clean it up, polish it, color it and make it pretty. If I don't get too busy making holes with it.

                          Pops

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                          • Started a new project. Couldn't seem to bring myself to pay 450 for a steady for my monarch sooo..here we go.





                            Last edited by j king; 02-26-2013, 10:51 PM.

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                            • Nothing spectacular for tools made in my shop lately, but I did make this tiny depth gauge to help with measuring components still installed in watch movements:


                              Just an old sewing pin, and a piece of brass that I drilled through. It will eventually loosen up and become unusable - when that happens I'll add a tiny set screw to adjust how "sticky" the pin is.

                              I recently finished a pretty neat project for my wife, as a Valentine's day gift, but it's not a tool so I won't post it here. I'll try to remember to make a new thread for it sometime this week.
                              Max
                              http://joyofprecision.com/

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                              • Made this rotary broach setup tonight.
                                Bored a housing for two orphan bearings and fitted a spindle to it bored m10, and the opposite end centre drilled. As the bearings are only subject to radial forces in the manner I use it, they don't need to be capable of thrust handling also.


                                Ground up a m8 hex cutter for it using a spindexer and the surface grinder, with a shim under the tail of the spindexer foot to generate the 2 degree clearance in the cutter.


                                In use, centre it over the hole (yes this is a square broach I made also, the hex picture didn't come out), and use the tailstock with a rolling centre located in the end of the free running spindle to push the broach into the workpiece while applying gentle forward pressure to the carriage so it keeps pace.


                                I'm pleased with the results so far.

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