Shop Made Tools

[bborr01]

Stern,

I think it would be a good idea to look at some of the factory made qctp's and copy their design for the mounting system. You have an awful lot of stick out with your setup with the 4 way holder holding the qctp. The closer you can get to the compound the more rigidity you will get. Not trying to rain on your parade, just trying to give you a little help.

Brian

Got some time to finnish (or almost finish) the QCTP. I want to see if it would hold up or cause vibration issues with heavy cuts. So, using my nice new R8 ER-40 collet set (only a little pain from the wife when she found out it was $250.00) and milled the dovetails. Mill did really well with no issues and made a nice clean job




Temporarily put the bolt in (to lock the tool holder height) and took a really nasty cut (from 1/2" bar down to just under 3/8" in one pass), and it did it no problem with no vibration or deflection. May not look pretty but it works well




Next step will be to put a handle on the bolt and fabricate a wheel to set the height
Click image for larger version.

[Stern]

True, and I was going to make a QCTP to replace the 4 way I have, but didnt have a chunk of steel big enough. Now that I do I will probably remake the tool post to replace the 4 way. Since doing this project I now know what I want to do and what NOT to do, plus I know I can actually do it lol.

[Stern]

Well, thanks to some post I saw where others had been creative in mounting stuff to their band saw, I made a front plate and stiffened the legs. Legs are floppy and the bolts loosen when I move it




A couple of braces and its rock solid now, and the crappy wheels even work lol



Decided to make a front work plate, so cut some 3/8" plate

[Stern]

Band saw had a 1/2" hole with setscrew, so decided to use it. Milled a 1/2" slot in the plate, cut a 1/2" rod and clamped the mount it place, then welded the rod in. Left it there and welded the plate to it. Had to grind down the bead since I need it flat, did half but needed the big grinder to get the half shown not done.




Unit is done, and found the right allan key



Works great, but want to add some support for the left side, so mounted a block to the Band saw and tapered the top to match the saw bed.


Decided to leave the block bolted but not weld it to the plate, as I only need to loosen the set screw and the assembly comes right off.

[Stern]

I had to mill the mount bar to cut a slot that would sit on the band saws front lip (this is a bit out of order since the 4 pic limit per post), and a 1/2"slot where I welded a 1/2" pin into (at an angle since the front of the band saw slopes a bit)



Shown just pushed in a little to show the support block




Shown fully seated



Decided to make sure it was solid .... and the 90+ lb steel block caused no problems at all now I can cut it and make a proper QCTP for the lathe to replace the 4 way and eliminate my current block overhang.



Love this forum, lots of great ideas

[Billy Hill]

This is one of the most addictive threads I've seen in a long time. Great work by all of you!

Here's a useful tool I made a while ago, it's a 1/2-13 SHCS drilled and tapped through for a #10-32 SHCS and a piece of angle or flat bar with slots.



The #10-32 SHCS holds the piece of angle on the 1/2-13 SHCS.



This little assy fits a Kurt or quad vise and will hold the angle piece on the jaw at what ever angle you want.

[gdavis2265]

Tubing Notcher for the lathe.

Cheers,

Glenn

[iMisspell]

A sliding tap holder for tail-stock:
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/thr...ing-tap-holder


_

[gdavis2265]

Just a couple more photos:






Cheers,

Glenn

[Boostinjdm]

Considering the time involved, this is now the most expensive thing I own besides my house.
Set up for 30 tons at the moment and I can go bigger on the cylinder later if I need to.
120v electric over hydraulic controls. Cylinder can roll side to side. 12 3/4" of stroke, 15"x38" working surface. The table plates are removable.

The whole project with progress pics can be seen over at WeldingWeb.

[J. R. Williams]

Nice job. How do you raise and lower the table? Most units have a cable operated hoist.

[Elninio]

Charlie's 1/4" endmill next to 1/4" carbide. The carbide makes bores as smooth as it's shank; chips glow like they were chromed where the HSS (barely used condition) producing steaming blue chips. I reamed the holder for the 1/4" bar and use that to bore holders for my progressively larger endmills. The angled surface on the larger endmill's holder is there because it was supposed to be a tangential tool holder that I accidentally bored too large like a year ago.

[The Fixer]

Elninio, I must be missing something here..... why would you not just mount the endmill in the tailstock?

[oxford]

^^^I think he is using them as a boring bar not a drill bit. You can move your cross slide and use 1 flute to bore with. You could also plunge drill the initial hole with it as long as it is a center cutting endmill.

[Elninio]

^^^I think he is using them as a boring bar not a drill bit. You can move your cross slide and use 1 flute to bore with. You could also plunge drill the initial hole with it as lons as it is a center cutting endmill.

That is correct; the secret is to get 2 flute endmills, so the chips have more room to clear the full width of the cutting edge. On 4 flute endmills, there is very little room -- which is still acceptable, since you can take more shallow cuts at greater feeds with carbide ...