Shop Made Tools

[BCRider]

Toolguy, do you have a source for that brand name? I found an old thread on HSM that said McMaster had them. But it doesn't look like they carry them any longer. My normal online sources keep thinking I spelled "something else" wrong and nothing shows up. I see that their main website is active though.

What about M42? In looking at the Tantung references I saw some folks saying that M42 is pretty good too.

So looking over my drawing and checking the body I found out that I didn't max out the angle I could get from the existing holder. So that got me to reset up the angle vise and indicate in the slot and re-cut the tool bit slot so it was deeper into the body at the tail of the holder. I was able to increase the slope by .07" which left .06 between the tool bit slot and the corner of the dovetail. This only made a 1.8° change but it's the 1.8° I needed to get the angle to let me grind the leading edge without grinding away a hunk of the holder as well.

So it looks like there's no need for the Mk II version since this one is now going to work out just fine.

The reason I didn't want too strong an angle as seen from the top is that the more that angle the less effective side rake we get.

Here's a picture of it taking a cut off a stainless flywheel I've had for ages with the intent to make a test indicator stand out of it. I'm turning a hollow on the bottom to leave a 3/16 rim around the edge which I'll lap to the surface plate. The Chinesium HSS lasted for a short bit more after this picture before it started cutting really rough. The stainless had just wore away the tip. So that's one sharpening cycle out of 200+...

I chucked up one of my cheap Chinesium carbide cutters to finish the job. The one I used just made it despite trying to take off just a fine ribbon the whole cut. I had to switch corners to do the rim and top side.

[Toolguy]

For those who prefer HSS cutters, but run into difficult workpieces, get some Tantung. The most common alloy is Tantung G. It looks kind of like HSS, but way tougher, especially at high heat. Do not quench when grinding, that will make it fracture. Just let it air cool.

[BCRider]

Thankyou! That was the intent. As I type this the block to make two more of the slightly modified version that increases the top down angle to make sharpening the leading edge is being cut by the bandsaw. 1/8" more overhang. I'm not all that happy about that part of it. We'll see if that tends to promote any chatter or not.

[Arcane]

Oh... I think I misunderstood what TMB was meaning. Color me embarrassed...

I'm not totally convinced that it's ready for Aloris or others yet. For starters I may have made the front angle without quite as much angle as the cutter wants for easier grinding. But I was worried about too much overhang at the same time.

I've got a hunk of 1.5x3 honest to gosh mild steel here and I think I may try another version that is maybe 1/8 to 3/16 wider at the nose. And since the tail doesn't have any load to speak off on it I'd like to edge the slot for the tool blank in a bit closer to the dovetail notch to aid with getting a little more angle for easier initial shaping and ongoing sharpening.

Your design has the advantage of needing only a simple sharpening on the end of the tool bit like the Diamond tool holder does. Not having to fool around with this angle and that angle is sooo nice and it still doesn't preclude anyone from putting whatever grind they want on the tool bit. It's a win-win!

[The Metal Butcher]

Yes, not a directive but a compliment! I think that would be a useful holder for a lot of folks.

[BCRider]

Oh... I think I misunderstood what TMB was meaning. Color me embarrassed...

I'm not totally convinced that it's ready for Aloris or others yet. For starters I may have made the front angle without quite as much angle as the cutter wants for easier grinding. But I was worried about too much overhang at the same time.

I've got a hunk of 1.5x3 honest to gosh mild steel here and I think I may try another version that is maybe 1/8 to 3/16 wider at the nose. And since the tail doesn't have any load to speak off on it I'd like to edge the slot for the tool blank in a bit closer to the dovetail notch to aid with getting a little more angle for easier initial shaping and ongoing sharpening.

[Arcane]

BC, that looks very nice. I don't use HSS for anything but special applications anymore, but I quite like the design of your holder. It should be an aloris standard for those who still use HSS for turning.

No kidding! Are you listening Aloris?

[rcaffin]

I can't get more than 2 to 12 inches of cutting before the corner is shot.
You may be overloading the carbide. Mind you, the cheap carbide is not good for much anyhow. A lot of the really cheap Chinese carbide is designed for a router - high speed on wood.
But good carbide with small cuts and the right speed/feed is very nice.

Cheers

[BCRider]

Noitoen, wonderful idea. I'll try that on the cut end which shines like a new penny. Will report back....

Thanks TMB.

I've dabbled with inserts and still use a few brazed bits. But overall I've never yet applied myself and bought a variety to try out. It's something on the "To Do" list which still needs to rise to the top of the pile. In the meantime I find that I get the most trouble free work from HSS. Seems like I just look at the inserts I've tried out sideways and the corner crumbles. Any pointers to avoid that other than the usual "don't run it back without withdrawing"? Seems like even just stopping in a heavy cut is enough of an issue to crumble a corner.

On the inserts I've tried (a cheapie four cutter set with no name non coted triangle positive rake inserts) I can't get more than 2 to 12 inches of cutting before the corner is shot. Mind you to be fair I always try these again when faced with some really tough mystery alloy I have here which chews up HSS like a cheap dog toy in the mouth of a big dog.

Perhaps the key is simply better inserts. But my frugal side chokes up at the $15+ cost for name brand inserts. Especially if I'm still doing things wrong and crumble a corner in 2" or so. And I guess I'm a bit gun shy of the cheapies given my experience to date.

If using the prototype is anything to go on I likely won't live long enough to wear out the 3/8 sq blank shown in the pictures above. The other prototype which is around 7 years old now started with a 4" long 1/2" square bit. And measuring it just now it looks like I've used maybe 1/8" of the blank. It's just under 4" long where some other new ones are just shy of 4 1/8". So if nothing else it's a frugal proposition.

The post the holder is on is an import AXA post. So provided the clone maker did a decent job it would fit any other Aloris. I'll find out when the second one done alongside goes onto my buddy's piston style AXA clone.

[The Metal Butcher]

BC, that looks very nice. I don't use HSS for anything but special applications anymore, but I quite like the design of your holder. It should be an aloris standard for those who still use HSS for turning.

[Noitoen]

Degrease it and wrap it in a paper towel soaked in lemon juice. It will become mat gray and rust resistant. You can try it on a smaller piece to see the rusult

[BCRider]

If it would give off the same oxidation colors as mild steel I'd run it up to a nice electric blue. But as it is now it's got a toughness to it that I would like to keep since it is tooling. If there's a chance that going to red heat to get to the point where it would pick up color from the oil dip would warp it or anneal away that toughness then I'll live with the shiny. Or if it comes down to that I could paint it with one of the fancy gun coatings which are very resistant to oils and such.

Mostly I'd like to just reduce the glare. Silver-grey is fine if I can just mute down the shine.

[challenger]

Eggzactly... tough enough and cheap to boot.... It's surprised me more than a couple of times at how something so light can be surprisingly sturdy. I checked the faces of the jaws and the fixed is under a thou out of flat and the moving jaw when holding a 1/2x8 square HSS blank and checked for parallel holds evenly at the ends with just a whisp of pressure. Add to that the lack of chatter or other issues and it's been a really great tool that delivers well above the price. Who'da guessed, right?

So it's sort of finished.... At least all the machining is done and I can't do any more.. The "sort of" comes from getting befuddled by my attempt to cold blue the body which didn't so much as take on a hint of color. I suddenly realized why the material had been so tough to machine. Yep, it's stainless of some sort. One of the totally non magnetic alloys.

I got the stock off the offcuts section at a local fabricator's outfit. The owner and staff is nice enough to allow hobbyists like me to pick out mild steel and pay a very attractive price for it. And same with aluminium but obviously more per lb. But still highly attractive.

They have stainless as well but someone misplaced this and the lump I bought looks like a piece of darker grey cold rolled. So I got it for the plain steel price.

So looks like it's going to remain shiny silver. It's nasty for glare though. I have to check but I may be able to track down a buddy with a sand blaster I can use on the outer sides and top to cut the glare. As it is now it's REALLY shiny ! ! ! !

In the first shot the tool post is turned around so you can see the holder. Second picture is the user's view showing why it's angled so I can leave the main post square to the work axes. Initial cuts with a freshly ground tool show that it laughs in silence at a .15 cut on mild steel. Just sits there with no flexing or nodding at all.

There's 1.37" of free blank behind the rear holding screw. And assuming I shorten the end and dress the front by .005'ish just to freshen up the edge that works out to about 275'ish sharpenings. In some cases where I hit something that gouges the end I'll have to grind away more. But even so that's pretty rare so it'll be something around 200+ sharpenings with one tool blank.

Maybe try heating it until it changes color and dropping it in used motor oil.

[BCRider]

Eggzactly... tough enough and cheap to boot.... It's surprised me more than a couple of times at how something so light can be surprisingly sturdy. I checked the faces of the jaws and the fixed is under a thou out of flat and the moving jaw when holding a 1/2x8 square HSS blank and checked for parallel holds evenly at the ends with just a whisp of pressure. Add to that the lack of chatter or other issues and it's been a really great tool that delivers well above the price. Who'da guessed, right?

So it's sort of finished.... At least all the machining is done and I can't do any more.. The "sort of" comes from getting befuddled by my attempt to cold blue the body which didn't so much as take on a hint of color. I suddenly realized why the material had been so tough to machine. Yep, it's stainless of some sort. One of the totally non magnetic alloys.

I got the stock off the offcuts section at a local fabricator's outfit. The owner and staff is nice enough to allow hobbyists like me to pick out mild steel and pay a very attractive price for it. And same with aluminium but obviously more per lb. But still highly attractive.

They have stainless as well but someone misplaced this and the lump I bought looks like a piece of darker grey cold rolled. So I got it for the plain steel price.

So looks like it's going to remain shiny silver. It's nasty for glare though. I have to check but I may be able to track down a buddy with a sand blaster I can use on the outer sides and top to cut the glare. As it is now it's REALLY shiny ! ! ! !

In the first shot the tool post is turned around so you can see the holder. Second picture is the user's view showing why it's angled so I can leave the main post square to the work axes. Initial cuts with a freshly ground tool show that it laughs in silence at a .15 cut on mild steel. Just sits there with no flexing or nodding at all.

There's 1.37" of free blank behind the rear holding screw. And assuming I shorten the end and dress the front by .005'ish just to freshen up the edge that works out to about 275'ish sharpenings. In some cases where I hit something that gouges the end I'll have to grind away more. But even so that's pretty rare so it'll be something around 200+ sharpenings with one tool blank.

[Arcane]

BCRider, I have a little angle vise that looks to be the twin of yours. It was cheap to buy and has been more than adequate for the limited amount of angled cuts I've had to make.

Nice tool holder, btw.