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Originally posted by schor View Post
No reason to have the thread dial turning when your not threading. Disengage it and save it.Andy
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[QUOTE=dian;930076]doesnt that tend to pull the crossslide up?[/QUOTE
That's the idea, if th parting tool starts to dig in the forces involved push it up and away from the work, freeing it rather than jamming up - or so I'm led to believe. I've never had trouble parting conventionally, just flip the power cross-feed on, Big rigid lathes though...Rules are for the obedience of fools, and the guidance of wise men.
Holbrook Model C Number 13 lathe, Testa 2U universal mill, bikes and tools
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Originally posted by dian View Postdoesnt that tend to pull the crossslide up?
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Originally posted by _Paul_ View PostHad a spare AXA QCTP hanging round for a while was going to punt it on Fleabay but got to thinking about uses for it and perhaps making a base for it to turn it into a rear QCTP this is the mark one version:
Paulsan jose, ca. usa
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Brian
I am a newbie, (first reply) saw your article on shop made tools, my first experience as a machinist started back in the 60s, I worked under a master machinist who started off as a blacksmith, so I am a old-school machinist, making shop tools was one of the things I enjoy doing, making hardware and build, tooling for special jobs.
In the 80s I started a project, it was my 4spiral lamp). Somewhere here it said I could not send a attachment, To build this lamp I needed to, design the machine, tooling, and hardware, which took me three years, if you look at, my4spiral.com, you may see the video of the processes not the machinery.
Hope you like.
lampmanAll things are possible, with patience and tenacity.
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Originally posted by _Paul_ View PostHad a spare AXA QCTP hanging round for a while was going to punt it on Fleabay but got to thinking about uses for it and perhaps making a base for it to turn it into a rear QCTP this is the mark one version:
Paul
PhilLast edited by Old Hat; 08-20-2014, 11:42 AM.
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Originally posted by lampman View PostBrian
I am a newbie, (first reply) saw your article on shop made tools, my first experience as a machinist started back in the 60s, ...............
Somewhere here it said I could not send a attachment,
lampman
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Originally posted by Hellkell View PostWhen you look at the force vectors in the conventional position the tool will get pulled in to the work and dig in. It's hard to imagine unless you have a diagram. If you have a heavy duty lathe it is not usually a problem. When the tool is the other side it pulls up and away from the work and does not dig in.
That's why a Bullard can take a cut, that would shake an engine lathe loose from floor.
Tool pressure needs to flex away from the force applied, not into it!
PS;
New guys, put your home city/town/country in your profile, planet earth is too vague.Last edited by Old Hat; 08-20-2014, 11:49 AM.
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Got time to make some new tools, and photograph some previously made tools again, so here goes.
Thread bit grinding fixture.
It can do 55*, and 60*, with a 10* side clearance angle, and hold bits up to 3/8"
and in use
Worked pretty good. I roughed out 3 new bits (one double ender) by hand on a bench grinder, then finished them with the jig, in about 20 minutes. Touching them up after the fact now will be really easy. This was made using a scrap of 4140 that has been kicking around my desk for about 6 months looking to be made into something, so that's why it's the size it is. If I make another (and i will) it will be larger so as not to need blocking in on the surface grinder. Took about 30 minutes of my time to make, maybe less, maybe more, wasn't really paying attention. I ball cut the angles in the cnc (cheated,), so it did all the work.
The bit shown will be split for an internal threading tool (still need to make the bar). I'll be making a er collet chuck ( a 32, and 16)for my super 7 shortly so that's why I included the 55* angle.
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