Shop Made Tools

[GSWayne]

A big brother to the other countersink holder


This is a 1/2" countersink.

[ncjeeper]

I didnt want to invest in a set of 5c collets and holder since I already have a decent set of r8 collets but I still needed a block to hold them when I need to mill round stock. I whipped this out.

[sawlog]

I was trying to stay away from the clamp screw on the tool holder. So that is why it is back

[_Paul_]

ncjeeper
That looks real handy I really do like that, something to add to my todo list
thanks for sharing!

[MikeL46]

Here is a little tool I made from some scrap parts from work. The knurled end screws onto a hollow, threaded center section. I cut the center off flush with the end of the knurled nut, drill the ID part way thru to fit a 3/8" allen driver. I use it when changing vise jaws to spin the capscrews on/off.



You can see I plugged the open end of mine.

Drop me a line if you want a nut and insert.

Mike

[KJ1I]

Mike -

What is the serialized 100 x 4.6mm item in the center of the assembled tool?

[MikeL46]

That is an analytical column for liquid chromatography. Used in chemical analysis processes. High pressures (2-5000 psi) and low flow rates (1-2 ml/min) are common.

Mike

[howder1951]

Nice, I need one of those and a hex one too, got any advice on how to make the bore accurately?

[MikeL46]

The bore doesn't have to be accurate, .020-.030 undersize and press the Allen in. It is for hand use and doesn't see much torque.

PM me your shipping information.

Mike

[_Paul_]

Inspired by ncjeepers R8 collet block I made my own modified version, instead of using a bolt mine will use a 7/16 x 20 capscrew, the idea being you can also stand it on it's end.









Didnt have any capscrews the right size so now just waiting for them to turn up, now have to find a bit of hex stock something like the right size to make another.

Paul

[ncjeeper]

I like it.

[mklotz]

I made a generalization of the ubiquitous 5C collet blocks. The picture below shows it in its assembled state.



Shown below are the two main components of the device. On the right is the collet chuck which is shaped exactly as one would shape a 5C chuck internally. On the left is the clamp that holds the chuck. It is split and fitted with a SHCS to lock the chuck in place when required. (When the clamp is used in the mill vise the clamping action of the vise closes the clamp and the screw is not required.) The clamp is fitted with a small brass finger stop that allows it to be accurately re-positioned in the mill vise.

The chuck has a dead flat bottom so it will sit vertically in the mill vise. When this flat base is aligned with the clamp base, the 24 indexing holes are just above the top of the clamp and precision pins in the chuck can be used against a pin fixed in the clamp to effect the indexing action.



These pictures show the draw-nut used to tighten the collet and the spanner used to tighten the draw-nut. When the nut is fully tightened on the collet in use it's completely hidden up inside the recess turned in the base of the chuck. This is done so the chuck can sit flat when used vertically.

Since the draw-nut is hidden when tightened, a special spanner is needed to reach up into the recess to tighten/loosen the nut. The one shown will do that. It has holes for tommy bars to provide the torque to activate the nut.

This strange cylindrical spanner shape accommodates the situation where the collet is used horizontally on a long piece of stock that projects out of the back of the collet. The spanner is slipped over the projecting stock, its "teeth" engage the slots in the nut, and the tommy bars activate the nut.





This is one of my most useful tools. You'll never believe how many small dividing jobs can be done with it.

[mars-red]

I made a generalization of the ubiquitous 5C collet blocks.
...
This is one of my most useful tools. You'll never believe how many small dividing jobs can be done with it.

That's tremendous! I may actually build something similar, after having seen this. I'm thinking that something like this, but with interchangeable indexing rings, would make a great little indexing head that wouldn't bee too hard to make.

[mklotz]

Like many HSMs I don't have the headroom on my mill to use a coax indicator to center holes under the quill.

If the job doesn't require the accuracy of the Zero-It indicator, I'll often just use the pointy end of the edge finder (shown at top of picture) to center the hole. Unfortunately, the larger end of the conical tip is only 0.3" diameter so one is out of luck for holes larger than that.

If the holes happen to be aliquot sizes, set of nesting drill bushings (shown at bottom) can help but, if the hole is slightly over/under size, the fit can be sloppy.



I made these two devices to deal with the problem. Each consists of a slug of steel, accurately center-drilled at one end and having a conical taper at the other. Each has a companion close-fitting ring.



In use, the cone is inserted into the hole and the ring is pressed down on the stock to ensure that the conical plunger is held vertically. Then the cone on the edge finder is inserted into the center-drilled hole.



No, it's not as accurate as using a DTI in the Zero-It but it's more than accurate enough for 90% of the jobs I do.

They're simple to make. Try one.

[mklotz]

I built this device some time ago to help me butt-solder two pieces together.



The two little vises are as identical as I could make them. The bodies and jaws were machined as single pieces and then cut apart to make the two units. The vises slide along a 3/8" square rod and can be locked in any position. The cylindrical post fits my Panavise base. It's removable so the square rod can be clamped in the workbench vise.

As shown, this little jig has been a remarkably useful tool. Soldering, gluing and sawing are only a few of the things it's been used for. But it really came into its own when I added a second chunk of square rod perpendicular to the original



using a half-lap joint to ensure that the two vises remained aligned. Accurate orthogonal solder joints are a pleasure now.

I made the vises from aluminum which, in retrospect, was not the best choice for soldering since it wicks the heat away from the joint. Steel would have been a better choice but my concern was to not mar the part surfaces.

I've considered adding a third rod perpendicular to the existing two to allow for three dimensional assemblies but haven't gotten around to doing that yet.