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  • Originally posted by 10KPete View Post
    Hey, that's a good looking tap! What material and HT?

    Thanks Pete! It's made from O1 steel, so heat treat was a straightforward harden in oil. I tested it in the aluminum piece while it was still dead hard. I suppose I'll temper it to pale straw before using it again though.

    Lately I've been using a paste of boric acid (roach powder) and alcohol to cover my parts before hardening. It makes such a difference in removing that scale that builds up, especially when quenching in oil. It still develops a dark glassy scale, but it chips away very easily (it actually comes away in boiling water, if you're not in a hurry), leaving an attractive dull gray surface that is easily polished up.


    • Another indicator accessory. Can you ever have too many odd things for mounting indicators is special situations?

      This is based on one Professor Chaddock illustrates and references in his book on building the Quorn. IIRC he says he's never seen another anywhere else but it looked like a handy piece to have. It will clamp on any shaft from 1/4" to 1-1/2" and the stem can be located in three places relative to the shaft.

      "People will occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of the time they will pick themselves up and carry on" : Winston Churchill


      • Nice indicator holder. I've got a similar one I got from a retired machinist when I bought his box. Only difference is it uses a chain to wrap around the shaft to clamp. The working end is almost identical to yours if I remember right.

        ER25 to 1" straight shank for holding drills in the CNC lathe. Collet nut was salvaged from a crashed universal angle head, hence the aluminum smearing on the face.....

        2nd life Insert holder for holding DNMG inserts on their side. Great to be able to use up worn inserts and grind them into custom shapes.


        • Under cut edge finder. Fisher machine used to make one, But when I finally broke down to order one I was told they no longer make them. So I rolled my own. Use it all the time for reaching under the ledge of 2nd op parts. Repeats as well as any of my other edge finders.

          Tap I made from O1 for the nose of a dremel it's a 3/4"-12. Cut the flutes with a 1/4" ball. Didn't cut very well until I polished the grooves with a 1/4" wood dowel and a little clover paste, cut's great now. Used it to make a little fixture at work to hold a dremel to cut slots in plastic tooling ball covers. Took a ****ty job, and made it effortless (and safer), with very repeatable and good looking results. I'll see if I can get a picture of the fixture (don't know where it is now)


          • Dan, you do nice work!


            • Originally posted by Yondering View Post
              Dan, you do nice work!
              Thanks. I'm very fortunate to have nice CNC machines at work that I can use for my personal projects, as well as a modest (but currently very messy) home shop.


              • Some stuff made for the shop from a 3D printer.

                Tool post holder for Dremel

                Drip Bottle holder clamps

                Indicator mount for traming

                Lift bracket for rubber cover, over Y stepper motor pulley


                • Making a Randy Richards boring head cutter.


                  • Originally posted by goodscrap View Post
                    not a tool but a fixture,

                    a work friend asked if i could skim his cylinder head from a scooter, he talked of squish bands and all sorts of things and eventually gave me some dimensions to work to along with the head. The head is about 6 or 7" and the largest chuck i have is 8", biggest problem is the only place to girp was on the cooling fins, i thought of doing it on the milling machine, but the chamber needed making conical for piston clearance.

                    so i found a bit of rough flat bar cleaned up four spots, then drilled/tapped four holes, some coupling nuts were faced to the same length and threaded bar used to create the pins, these go through the head bolt holes and it clamps down onto the spot faced area.

                    the clamping lugs have a spotface on the back and locate on the bolts that form the reaction posts, it worked really well, the four jaw chuck allows easy centering and for added peace of mind i put a 1/2" drawbar through the headstock to ensure it didn't go walkies.

                    the fixture took many times longer to make than the head did to skim, but next time it will be easier

                    I know this is pretty old but it just turned up (no pun intended ) on Homemade tools.
                    If you have a centre spark plug it's easier to make a mandrel then fabricate a drive dog in a stud hole
                    It's a neat set up for heads that don't have a centred spark plug, I may make one for the Suzuki I'm 'playing' with


                    • Made some accessories for my rotary table...needed to expand the capacity AND be able to clamp outside and inside without redoing the setup...thought someone might be interested...many ways to skin a cat, this is mine


                      Last edited by leversole; 10-16-2015, 06:32 PM.


                      • Table mounted adjustable workstop. Even with CNC I'm not sure I shouldn't have just bought one but I'm pleased with how it came out.

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                        • Hey, that's a pretty cool design, and nicely made. Good work!!

                          1973 SB 10K .
                          BenchMaster mill.


                          • How was the curves cut?


                            • Very nice work Photoman, do you have drawings for it you would be willing to share?



                              • Shop Made Tools

                                I can share the 3D model but I didn't make any 2d drawings.

                                @outlawspeeder: The curves were mostly done via 2D profile operations. I left 1" stubs on the curved bases so I could hold the part in a collet block. After the mill finished the profile I parted the stub away in the lathe. The double hook was profiled from solid stock.

                                Thanks for the positive comments. I really like the way it came out. I did have to modify the 3/8 SHCS screws to maximize the range of motion.

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