Shop Made Tools

[ezduzit]

Not familiar with A2Z. But Dorian, Aloris and virtually every Asian import is made of steel. Aluminum just seems the least likely choice for holders.

[danlb]

because it's a) what I have, b) easier to machine, c) strong enough for 0XA holders that it's used to make the A2Z CNC tool post holders. We're talking 1/4in bits on an Atlas 618, not 1in WNMG holders on an oil field lathe.

Oh, and thanks for the supportive comments about the holders I made

The holders look pretty good, especially when you consider that you are using a drill press to make them. The surface finish is not great, but a file and a bit of lapping can make it look real pretty if that's what you are looking for.

Can you use a fly cutter on your mill/drill/drill?

Dan

[jocat54]

The aluminum holds up and works quite well on my SB9 (AXA) and my Enco 12x36 (BXA) using 1/4 to 1/2 tool bits. I have made 4 of them and they get used on a regular basis with no issues

[SpoonerandForker]

As told to me by a German with the traditional attention to precision, "If it works, it's right!"

Aluminum is an often overlooked piece of raw stock. In many applications, the added mass of mild steel adds nothing to the function of the part. If the aluminum has adequate strength it should not be overlooked. And if it is anodized it can have superior corrosion resistance.

I particularly like the cutoff tool holder that relies on deflection to clamp the precision ground cutoff blade, nice use of the inherent material characteristics.

[Jack F]

Default

As told to me by a German with the traditional attention to precision, "If it works, it's right!"


Sounds like a machinist I used to know. "if your fingernail fits and your elbow won't it's in spec."

Jack.

[BCRider]

Matt, you're the first person I've ever known to get decent results from milling in a drill press. I'm sure it is taking lots of time and patience since you can't do really deep cuts but overall we can't argue with the results. When the day comes that you get a REAL milling machine you're going to be smiling like the cat that caught the canary ! ! !

[mattthemuppet]

those took forever. Just roughing the dovetail (150mm long slot, 20mm wide, 5mm deep) took me several nights and 3 endmills. In contrast the alu ones I'm making right now are a breeze - cutting and facing (using my shop made flycutter ) all the blocks took an hour and the first dove tail another hour. BCrider, you're sure right, I'm getting a lot of practice that'll stand me in good stead when I do get a milling machine!

[plunger]

You are either ignorant or stubborn. Either way you have done what many would say is impossible on a drill press.I am curious to know if you would do this project again now you are not as ignorant as when you first started.
I would have been proved wrong on this project.I would say its not possible.
Well done.

[BCRider]

I think a lot of us must have tried the drill press and X-Y vise early on. I know I did. The experience turned me into a staunch believer that it's not worth the time. And that was with a few tricks to modify my own to aid in locking the spindle so it wouldn't wiggle around.

Much like Matt found milling steel simply isn't viable other than some sort of "desert island self rescue" scenario. Aluminium was sort of OK but had to be done in small bites so it took a lot more time.

In the end I found it was best used for making slot mortises for wood working. In that role the drill press milling just totally rocks. But even that role was taken over by the milling machine once it arrived. At that point the drill press was VERY HAPPILY reverted to doing what it does best.

[Jack F]

I too tried the DP- XY table bit with a fly cutter. The morris taper kept falling out of the spindle.


Jack.

[mattthemuppet]

plunger, I like to think that I am both I'm happy to have made the holders I have from steel, but I'm also happy to be making the rest from alu (did 2 complete dovetails in 1 1/2h last night, a personal record!). I would do other work in steel if I needed to, but I'll do my best to avoid cutting slots, that was the truly miserable part even with a roughing endmill.

BCRider, I've done alot to improve it's milling "performance". The XY vise had a thorough working over with new leadscrew bearing blocks (with roller and thrust bearings), brass (I think) gibs, extra gib screws and digital calipers for readouts on each axis. The collet chuck fits onto the male JT33 taper and is held on my a threaded retaining ring (same feature that is used to remove the drill chuck). George Wilson gave it to me years back with a 1/4in collet and I made 3/8, 3/16 and 1/8 collets for it, so I can use from 1/8 to 1/2 tools in it. The variable speed motor really helps too.

Given that I don't have any alternative, it does just fine until we move next year and I can start saving for a mill. Once (if) I get a mill, it'll then be an awesome drill press Even a G0704 or PM727 would be fantastic for the size work I do.

[sawlog]

I have a question? Do you think aluminum will work for an adapter for an insert cut off blade? I made one for the smaller lathe out of steel but like the one piece type for my bigger lathe. Since I seen your blocks do you Matt think it will work for me?

[mattthemuppet]

I wouldn't - the tool loading is often higher and the area of the tool supported by the block is a lot smaller than for a turning tool, so I would expect to see the bottom of the slot at the front of the holder wallowing out with heavy use. Hopefully others with more experience might chime in.

[mars-red]

Regarding materials that are easy to machine for tool holders, brass might be a good compromise.

[ezduzit]

Pretty hard to beat steel for suitability of purpose. Cheap, easy to machine, strong, rigid, tough and long wearing.