Originally posted by ezduzit
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Matt, I went back a bit but couldn't find an answer as to WHY you are using a drill-press as a milling machine?
If it is a monetary issue you might want to take a look at the various slide designs found at http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cn...able-machines/,many of which are low cost(even free/scrounged parts) and could be used for a z-axis based around and attached to your drill press column that together with a wood router(or maybe even a electric hand-drill with a 43mm neck) could provide a more rigid spindle/z-axis.
The idea of making a manual machine based around one of the designs found there might also be an option... just throwing it out there...
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Two reasons, 1) money+ availability of reasonably priced machinery and 2) we'll be moving next year, most likely across country and potentially (if I don't get a job as my visa is linked to having a job) back to the uk. Doesn't make sense to pay through the nose for a machine in the pnw and then pay again to move it (our move from pa to wa worked out at $1/lb), when i can look for one wherever we end up. Not ideal but it is what it is.
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Originally posted by ezduzit View PostPretty hard to beat steel for suitability of purpose. Cheap, easy to machine, strong, rigid, tough and long wearing.
This is one for my Lathemaster I made out of steel. It is apart for photos I sent other a fellow YouTube creator who is considering making one. I'll probably make one like it for the larger block so I can use the larger (stronger) blades
Sent from my SM-T550 using Tapatalk
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Originally posted by mattthemuppet View PostI wouldn't - the tool loading is often higher and the area of the tool supported by the block is a lot smaller than for a turning tool, so I would expect to see the bottom of the slot at the front of the holder wallowing out with heavy use. Hopefully others with more experience might chime in.
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Cheap plastic nut on my mower's ignition switch was stripped. Switch body is die cast without much regard for any particular thread. Pitch is 32tpi but the major diameter is .616", bigger than 9/16" but smaller than 5/8". So, I made a tap out of an old grade 8 bolt. I used it to tap a new aluminum nut and it will probably never be needed again so it didn't make sense to try hardening and tempering it. Worked like a charm.
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Made a big 200x170x150 angle plate with 20mm thick plate. I can unscrew the plates and use them as 200x150x20 parallel blocks. Hope to, someday, be able to case harden and grind them.
It clamps with 6 M12 screws in the table.
Can also be used vertically to hold round stock square with the table.
While making the angle plate, found myself in the need of a pair of step jaws.
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dang Tim and Mr. Hunter, those look professionally made.
Finished the alu holders, bar the dremel holder which I'll get to today.
I also used a roll form tap for the threads to give a bit more thread depth and strength. First time using one (and under power on the DP) and I was really impressed. Super fast and gave great threads.
I'm really pleased with how all these came out and it'll make life a lot easier on the lathe.
edit, that boring bar holder dovetail looks like it's been chewed by a beaver - the other ones are much better, honest. This one I accidentally cut to full depth before using the dovetail cutter, whereas the other ones had 0.2mm or so left to be cleaned up by the cutter.Last edited by mattthemuppet; 08-08-2016, 02:58 PM.
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Originally posted by Tim Aldrich View PostCheap plastic nut on my mower's ignition switch was stripped. Switch body is die cast without much regard for any particular thread. Pitch is 32tpi but the major diameter is .616", bigger than 9/16" but smaller than 5/8". So, I made a tap out of an old grade 8 bolt. I used it to tap a new aluminum nut and it will probably never be needed again so it didn't make sense to try hardening and tempering it. Worked like a charm.
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"People will occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of the time they will pick themselves up and carry on" : Winston Churchill
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A couple more tools that are on the repair area right now.
TTS/toolpost high speed spindle/grinder using an outrunner brushless motor (24000rpm, altough I have another motor rewired to 40000). Broke the shaft and now I need a way to hold the new one to machine in another way to make it stronger.
Touch probe with TTS shank. Need to reglue some of the balls and improve the concentricity. It can be adjusted but right now is way off center so get it under 0.01mm is a pain in the ass.
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Devilhunter,
Have you put an indicator on the inserts to see how much runout your face mill has?
BrianOPEN EYES, OPEN EARS, OPEN MIND
THINK HARDER
BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE
MY NAME IS BRIAN AND I AM A TOOLOHOLIC
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Originally posted by TGTool View PostNice work on making a tap, but another dodge and a little less work would have been to use a 10-32 tap. Mount the tap like a small boring bar, get it lined up straight with the ways or perhaps a tiny bit pointed out to compensate for spring. Set the gears or QC box for 32 threads and thread it more like single pointed threads. You don't have to fret as much on thread depth since the tap will control depth. Two or three passes and check the fit with your male thread.
Devilhunter, nice looking angle plate.
mattthemuppet, nice tool holders.
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