Shop Made Tools

[John Stevenson]

Need a jack shaft for anything ?
Instead of cutting a spline or long keyway down the sliding part just raid the scrap bin.



First off find a piece of hex bar suitable for the job, turn / weld / pin / braze / hammer / glue the ends on.

Then.



Find a socket in amongst all the spare ones that fits the hex shaft, cut the square drive off and turn to fit the tube.
Weld / braze / glue/ into the tube.

Job done and it looks professional .

.

[John Stevenson]

Need to press a cap into a bush to seal it off or similar ?
Or, heavens above you have skimmed a few thou too many out of a bore.

You need the El Stevo patent putting back on boring bar.








Just a single knurl held on the blank end of the boring bar with a screw and bush.

Proof of the pudding .





Nice press fit for the cap with a dollop of loctite.

.

[John Stevenson]

How to hold an eccentric that outside the scope of a 4 jaw ?



Can't hold on the large bearing diameter because it wont fit inside the chuck. Can't hold on the small bearing diameter because the throw is larger than the radius.

Bearing have thrown and damaged the part.



So stuff some weld on and whilst waiting for it to dry hunt a plate out that can hold the small bearing diameter. Two cross holes tapped and with brass pads under the screws so as not to damage the shaft, stuff in the 4 jaw and we have this.




Clock up on the good journal and support with a centre and go to it.




That's it jobs a good un.

.

[j king]

[QUOTE=John Stevenson]Need to press a cap into a bush to seal it off or similar ?
Or, heavens above you have skimmed a few thou too many out of a bore.



God forbid it ever happen to me John but glad I know how to fix it now. : )

[Kibby]

You''re a clever fellow, John. This is exactly the type of stuff I was faced with daily as a mechanic at a large printing company. All of our equipment was either obsolete and no parts available, or newer but parts cost-prohibitive. If I had a dollar for every shaft I have repaired or built, or fancy gizmo duplicated, I'd be rich!

[Davidhcnc]

There is a small staking tool, good for riveting and centre punching.



Angle table for my milling machie.



...and my brake pipe flaring tool. The body is spring loaded and used in the vice. The dies fit on to the brass and are hammered into the pipe. Drilled accross to give a handy clamp when preparing the ends.

[Peter.]

Here is my humble submission - a TC tipped parting tool blade.

Take one used & abused TC wood blade, and cut a piece out with a good tooth on it:



Fit it into a standard parting tool holder:



Hone the edge a bit so it's nice and sharp:



Here's how it performs:

http://peterrimmer.myby.co.uk/vids/parting_.wmv

[johnhurd]

how does that puppy work on steel???

[Black_Moons]

How to hold an eccentric that outside the scope of a 4 jaw ?

Can't hold on the large bearing diameter because it wont fit inside the chuck. Can't hold on the small bearing diameter because the throw is larger than the radius.

Bearing have thrown and damaged the aprt.

*sniped pics/etc*

That's it jobs a good un.

.

Very nice job! An intresting alternative to the two set screws (and resulting set screw marring) is just slit your block, it does not even need a screw (unless you plan to (re)move it and do further operations without letting it move), you can use the chuck jaws to clamp the slit. I made a little fixture to hold a repeative round job on my mill and used the mill vice to clamp the slited fixture shut. in my case my vise jaws where bigger then the fixture so I used a 0.01" shim next to the 'slit'ed side of the fixture to insure my vise would apply force to the slited side and collapse it before clamping onto the block

Peter: Awsome recycleing job! I bet that works supriseingly well with all the side relief. Price sure is nice too Clean up the rust a little and nobody would think twice about it. (Maybe clean the rust.. before cutting it out, wire brush on an angle grinder should make it easy)

[John Stevenson]

Not a good picture but you should get the gist.



Toolholder at the rear, it holds a 5" tipped saw blade with register holes drilled in it to sit on a pin to prevent spinning round.

You waste the first 1 or 2 teeth to get clearance then when a tip get damaged beyond redemption you grind it all away and spin round to a new tip.

You can get a 16 or 24 tooth blade on Ebay for £5.00, cheap method of parting off.

.

[Peter.]

how does that puppy work on steel???

http://peterrimmer.myby.co.uk/vids/partingsteel.wmv

[johnhurd]

I'm sold

[clutch]

Here is my humble submission - a TC tipped parting tool blade.

Take one used & abused TC wood blade, and cut a piece out with a good tooth on it:



Fit it into a standard parting tool holder:

My hat is off to you!

Clutch

[Frank Ford]

A mini hand tapper for use with a cordless drill:





A lathe tool height setter made from a not-so-square cheap import square:



A set of "lantern" holders for handling cap screws while grinding their ends to shorten or contour them:




With a 1/2" neodymium magnet set in the handle, my "squirrel tail" will hang just about anywhere in the shop:

[DICKEYBIRD]

I wish I could claim this idea but I can't. Gerald C over on the Chaski board posted this and gave me permission to put these pics up here. It's a QCTP drill adaptor that he made to drill some angled holes in a rifle brake.

Gotta make me one!







Link: http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/...ic.php?t=84143