Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Shop Made Tools

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • [QUOTE=Tim Aldrich;1071362]It looks like this. The chamfer serves no purpose. It's just there because there were some dings in the steel. Looks a little better too.

    Thanks, it looks as I had imagined. Going to make one soon.
    “I know lots of people who are educated far beyond their intelligence”

    Lewis Grizzard

    Comment


    • made another sliding T-handle chuck key for my 4 jaw. They're pretty simple to make but super handy, especially if you're tight on space around the chuck and like to use 2 handles to set the work piece in the chuck.




      Comment


      • I like this sliding handle idea. My three jaw chuck handle hits the corner of the head stock housing when it stops at the wrong range of angles.
        Chilliwack BC, Canada

        Comment


        • Do you see those grooves at the end of the chuck 'T' handles? They are just deep enough to allow for a tight-fitting, captive O-ring which would keep the handle from falling out. Not as good as mattthemuppet's idea, but it'a a lot faster to implement

          Comment


          • My chuck handles are all press fitted. And I don't recall ever seeing any that are not pressed in place.

            The grooves you are looking at were likely made by Matt because those are the classic shape used for friction buttons so the handles can't slip out. I've got two T style tap wrenches that use that same shape with a spring loaded button.

            The neat thing is that this style of movable handle can be set up with a stiff enough spring that for day to day use acts like a fixed T handle. But a firm'ish pull shifts the handle to allow working in areas where the T bumps into stuff.
            Chilliwack BC, Canada

            Comment


            • that's an interesting idea DATo, hadn't thought of that. I do like the soft detente in the middle as it keeps the T handle centered until you need it otherwise, like BCRider said. Unfortunately the spring in mine is too soft to provide much friction, but the close fitting hole does the job instead.

              BCRider - you're right about tap handles, that was where I got the idea from

              Comment


              • Matt, I make mine with a ball detent and use a round nose tool for the grooves. The end grooves I make deeper. That way I can pop the handle out if needed.

                Making your own stuff is way better than just buying. That's why we have these machines, right??

                Pete
                10KPete
                Senior Member
                Last edited by 10KPete; 10-10-2016, 09:02 PM.
                1973 SB 10K .
                BenchMaster mill.

                Comment


                • Pete, I never thought of using a ball detente, that's a way better idea. Piece of HSS ground round would make a fine groove and it would really simplify making the key. If I ever need to make another, I'll do it that way

                  occasionally I use my tools to make things, rather than more tools for my tools. Not too often though!

                  Comment


                  • 12MM MT3 Collet

                    Yay! I made a collet... AND IT WORKS, for a change.



                    I've been experimenting with ordering endmills and whatnot from China. Seems they like metric as the only stuff in fractional seems to be uber-junk. Don't yet know if the metric stuff is in anyway useful, but at 1/5th the cost, it seems worth the try.

                    But, the metric MT3 collets I can find, few and far between, are stupid-expensive. So, I made one, 2 actually. The first was one for a Vertex collet holder I have... had a lot of trouble with it, asked a bunch of questions here, and made it work well enough. But, sometimes I need the headroom, and my quill (along with everything else) is MT3, so I thought I'd have another go.



                    Turned out really well, if I do say so.

                    I didn't bother taking much in the way of photo while making it, other than this one whilst running a slitting saw.



                    Basically, I turned the outside taper while leaving stubs on both ends, different sizes. Then, I used my 5C collet blocks to index the slot, basically using the square one as an outside center for support. Then, I cut off the small end plug, chucked the big end, and drilled and tapped for the drawbar.

                    After that, I just set it in the spindle then drilled and bored to a slip fit on the endmill, right through the stub on that end. I slipped a 12mm aluminium plug I had prepared into it then trimmed off the stub on the nose, which was holding the slots apart. Once that was clear, I tightened the collet down on the plug and finished up the nose. According to the blue, the taper seems about right. I doubt I'll bother hardening it.

                    Easy enough that I think I'll make a couple of extra blanks the next time I need one, maybe a couple out of aluminium for any one-offs that come along as well.

                    David...
                    http://fixerdave.blogspot.com/

                    Comment


                    • Looks real nice David! Now you will be able to make any size you need from here on out!
                      Kansas City area

                      Comment


                      • Good work, Dave! If you're going to make spares, make a bunch 'cause you'll use 'em!

                        Pete
                        1973 SB 10K .
                        BenchMaster mill.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by mattthemuppet View Post
                          Pete, I never thought of using a ball detente, that's a way better idea. Piece of HSS ground round would make a fine groove and it would really simplify making the key. If I ever need to make another, I'll do it that way

                          occasionally I use my tools to make things, rather than more tools for my tools. Not too often though!
                          Having the bearing balls already, it was easier than making detents.

                          Pete
                          1973 SB 10K .
                          BenchMaster mill.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by fixerdave View Post
                            Yay! I made a collet... AND IT WORKS, for a change.
                            David, that is tremendous! I don't know why, but I really love seeing people make their own collets.
                            Max
                            http://joyofprecision.com/

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by mars-red View Post
                              David, that is tremendous! I don't know why, but I really love seeing people make their own collets.
                              Sorry for the HORRIBLE image, I took it 2-3 years ago with a iPod 4 camera. This collet worked, and has 4-40 threads in the back for the drawbar.

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Andre3127 View Post
                                Sorry for the HORRIBLE image, I took it 2-3 years ago with a iPod 4 camera. This collet worked, and has 4-40 threads in the back for the drawbar.
                                Absolutely glorious! Thanks for sharing!
                                Max
                                http://joyofprecision.com/

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X