Shop Made Tools

[vpt]

Nice follower Gary! Thanks for sharing! This is one thing I need for my atlas yet.

[gerardtreff]

Tool to be thread in automatic retraction

Hello,

I have just ended a device(plan) to make threading simply.
The detail of the manufacturing is there:

http://www.usinages.com/threads/porte-outil-a-fileter-a-retractation-automatique.92950/

In "appetizer":

https://goo.gl/photos/nqcKyUuEsbn36XeT9

https://youtu.be/SlPjoFV-g5o

https://youtu.be/7P5ew8ZoSEA

Thank you all, and happy reading.

[Dave C]

Thanks for the link. I could have enjoyed it better if I wasn't an English speaking monolingual clod.

[_Paul_]

whats the round ball for?

To make sure that one face of the workpiece is square with the fixed jaw of the vise, even if the sides are uneven as might happen with a sawn piece of stock.

The sequence I was taught was, 1) face off one of the largest faces, 2) turn to place it against the fixed jaw getting one square corner, 3) turn so the face just finished is against the base of the vise getting two faces now parallel and square with the first, and 4) turn to do the 4th face now that you have basic squareness. To get the last two you do now need an external square reference to get side 5 square with two adjacent faces and then you can finally do the 6th parallel with the vise base and all should be good. You'd use a ball, round stock or other equalizer with the first three cuts to be sure of square accuracy.

Here's my selection of balls

[richz]

How did you get the flats on the balls?

[_Paul_]

How did you get the flats on the balls?

The ones pictured went for a ride on my old T&C grinder but I have ground others using an offhand grinder then finished with a diamond hone.

[Illinoyance]

The ones pictured went for a ride on my old T&C grinder but I have ground others using an offhand grinder then finished with a diamond hone.

An alternate method is hard turning on a lathe. That is how I made mine.

[Dan_the_Chemist]

whats the round ball for?

A good video that explains the process of going from rough block to 6 sides square and parallel is shown in careful detail in Marc L'Ecuyer's video entitled "Squaring a block". It will explain where the use of a ball (or similar) is appropriate.

I was taught to use a relatively small diameter soft copper rod (1/4" to 3/8") instead of a ball or a brass cylinder, but the principles are all the same.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHBw_uidViQ

[gambler]

To make sure that one face of the workpiece is square with the fixed jaw of the vise, even if the sides are uneven as might happen with a sawn piece of stock.

The sequence I was taught was, 1) face off one of the largest faces, 2) turn to place it against the fixed jaw getting one square corner, 3) turn so the face just finished is against the base of the vise getting two faces now parallel and square with the first, and 4) turn to do the 4th face now that you have basic squareness. To get the last two you do now need an external square reference to get side 5 square with two adjacent faces and then you can finally do the 6th parallel with the vise base and all should be good. You'd use a ball, round stock or other equalizer with the first three cuts to be sure of square accuracy.

thank you

[gerardtreff]

To Dave C :

Certainly, it is as well difficult for you to read French as for me to translate 13 pages into English!
But as there are many images / drawings, you should understand the principle and the technological choices.

good reading.

[Toolguy]

It looks like the math equations are in English!

[rcaffin]

I fully understand the use of the balls to get the machined face pressing against the fixed jaw, but it does seem like a very high concentration of force. OK with steel, less good with aluminium.
I have been using a strip or two of red fibre board instead. It is sufficiently compliant that it does the same thing, but more gently. Works for me.

Cheers
Roger

[_Paul_]

Hi Roger,
The hardened balls can really make a mess of a component I tend to use them more on the unmachined faces of badly irregular stock for which they do work very well especially so if cutting forces are high and high clamping pressures are required, if I use them on a machined face I use a scrap piece of Aluminum or Brass as a "Cap" to better distribute the force and not mar the part.
Like most I also use an array of Aluminium Tig rod, cylindrical Aluminium or Brass bar stock, paper, cardboard etc. not tried fibre board yet.

Chuck Bommarito has a good YouTube channel where he demonstrates (and sells) "Screwyballs".


Paul

[Dave C]

To Dave C :

Certainly, it is as well difficult for you to read French as for me to translate 13 pages into English!
But as there are many images / drawings, you should understand the principle and the technological choices.

good reading.

I hope I did not convey the notion that you should have translated the text. I was merely lamenting my own failure to learn another language.

[MattiJ]

This hardly qualifies as a shop made tool, more of cheap hack (some milling is on a bucket list to get triangular lobes to shaft.)

5 USD tapping ratchet, throw away 70% of the parts and you get compact tapping chuck for cordless drill:

http://i.imgur.com/j5FeAak.jpg

Ebay listing says that its for M3-M8 but more reasonably M3 to M6, since only one oddball M8 tap fits in. (suprisingly it's all-steel construction and the ratchet tidbits are even hardened)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/311679690152?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT