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  • Originally posted by Reeltor View Post
    Andy I would love to see a video of you making a scroll. Any chance that you will be a YouTube star and post one up?

    Mike
    I can eventually. I am busy but next project that comes up for the scroll I will try to remember to make a video.
    Andy

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    • First post in a long time. Hope the pictures make it. I just made a simple pipe bender for a BBQ I'm going to mount on my catamaran sailboat.

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      • I saw that someone here talked about a Spring Parting Tool. so I done a little searching and came up with a plan. Bought some 3/4 inch flat bar at the metal recyclers and after sawing, drilling, milling on the flat bar this was all that was left. I tried it out a little while ago and it worked far better than I expected, parted of a 3/4 rod with a pretty aggressive cut and Bam, it worked.
        _____________________________________________

        I would rather have tools that I never use, than not have a tool I need.
        Oregon Coast

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        • Mel,
          Nice job! Small question. It looks like the bottom of the slot the blade fits in on the stationary part of the holder could use a little clearance so the blade doesn't hit when it moves back and down? Is there clearance that just isn't visible?

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          • There is about 3/32 clearance and I can add more if I need it. I think the shadow is hiding it.
            _____________________________________________

            I would rather have tools that I never use, than not have a tool I need.
            Oregon Coast

            Comment


            • Originally posted by garyhlucas View Post
              Mel,
              Nice job! Small question. It looks like the bottom of the slot the blade fits in on the stationary part of the holder could use a little clearance so the blade doesn't hit when it moves back and down? Is there clearance that just isn't visible?
              I'm thinking the pivot point for the blade holder is at the hole at the top of the slot. If the tool flexes the back of the cutting tool will move UP.

              lg
              no neat sig line
              near Salem OR

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              • Very nice.

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                • Originally posted by larry_g View Post
                  I'm thinking the pivot point for the blade holder is at the hole at the top of the slot. If the tool flexes the back of the cutting tool will move UP.

                  lg
                  no neat sig line
                  You must wonder just how much movement is needed to facilitate a smooth cut off operation.

                  When I look at the section above the "flex hole", I see a really REALLY stiff piece of metal. But... The results speak for themselves!

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                  • Rotary bolt&rod deburring tool for cordless drill:




                    Works like a champ, M6 to M16 (or abouts 1/4" to 5/8")
                    Location: Helsinki, Finland, Europe

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                    • And this was the motivation for my bolt deburring tool:
                      https://www.amazon.com/Uniburr-1816-.../dp/B00WIT9KJ8

                      I wanted something similar but with one that doesn't dull instantly(quite many bad reviews) and has replaceable inserts. Not that I expect to wear the Sandvik carbide insert any time soon..
                      Location: Helsinki, Finland, Europe

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                      • MJ--though I think you slightly over did it on the bolts the tool is cool.
                        12" x 35" Logan 2557V lathe
                        Index "Super 55" mill
                        18" Vectrax vertical bandsaw
                        7" x 10" Vectrax mitering bandsaw
                        24" State disc sander

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                        • Originally posted by MattiJ View Post
                          And this was the motivation for my bolt deburring tool:
                          https://www.amazon.com/Uniburr-1816-.../dp/B00WIT9KJ8

                          I wanted something similar but with one that doesn't dull instantly(quite many bad reviews) and has replaceable inserts. Not that I expect to wear the Sandvik carbide insert any time soon..
                          The Amazon ad says 92 Rockwell tool steel. The Rockwell B scale 92 is equal to about 13 on the Rockwell C scale. That is about the hardness of 1018 cold rolled mild steel. The harder tool steels are more like Rc 65. Rc 13 would get dull in seconds just cutting wood. There is no 92 on the Rc scale.
                          Kansas City area

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                          • My bolt deburring tool body is made of 42CrMo (4140?) steel because thats what I had at hand, hardened after machining.
                            I was wondering what would be hardest and the most wear-resistant steel that can be hardened with relative ease at home shop?
                            D2?
                            Location: Helsinki, Finland, Europe

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by Toolguy View Post
                              The Amazon ad says 92 Rockwell tool steel. The Rockwell B scale 92 is equal to about 13 on the Rockwell C scale. That is about the hardness of 1018 cold rolled mild steel. The harder tool steels are more like Rc 65. Rc 13 would get dull in seconds just cutting wood. There is no 92 on the Rc scale.
                              The manufacturer says the hardness on the plus (+) model comes from the AlTiN coating. Six microns thick.
                              Leave it to Amazon to screw up the description...

                              Last edited by Highpower; 05-31-2017, 05:36 PM. Reason: resize pic

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by MattiJ View Post
                                My bolt deburring tool body is made of 42CrMo (4140?) steel because thats what I had at hand, hardened after machining.
                                I was wondering what would be hardest and the most wear-resistant steel that can be hardened with relative ease at home shop?
                                D2?
                                All the common drill rods can be hardened in a home shop easily with a torch. We're talking A-2, D-2, O-1, S-7, W-1, etc. You do need to know some basic heat treat metallurgy. Getting the temper right is as important as getting the hardening right, but neither is very hard if you know how.
                                Kansas City area

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