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  • Woah awsome insert pocket idea! i like it! perfict fit.. Might wanna drill a small hole to provide relief at the reserve cutting tip however, Inserts come in diffrent radiuses too, so if you tryed to insert a smaller radius insert it would snap the tip.

    I made a similar indicator holder, but no knurled ring, I just use my drawbar wrench to rotate the spindle by wrenching on the drawbar bolt.

    An intresting addition for the indicator holder is a steped shank that allows it to go into diffrent sized collets, letting you not have to change collets (as often) beween indicating things and doing work.
    Play Brutal Nature, Black Moons free to play highly realistic voxel sandbox game.

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    • John
      Nice idea on the large bit and 'door knob hole cutter'
      You can get spade drill bits for a good price on e-bay.
      Work great and one holder can take several sizes.
      I made a few spade drill holders, try and get pics in the am
      Gesus big snow storm here 30 plus cm with high winds
      please visit my webpage:
      http://motorworks88.webs.com/

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      • Made small hold down from angle iron. Drilled and tapped bed of brake. Used bolted on hold down to make small tank.







        Wish I could take credit for making the brake below. Was all rusted up when bought it at estate sale. Cleaned up and slapped some paint on it. Very well made brake would of liked to have known the builder. Was puzzled about angle iron that was on the folding leaf (not sure of terminology). After using seen what it was for. It gives a little more leverage pushing on the metal farther away from the bend line.

        Didn't have room for it. Put on top of little house that have for surface grinder, thinking would take it down when needed. Found out most the time, just use a stepladder and use it in place.




        Last edited by gary hart; 02-05-2010, 09:55 PM.

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        • I saw these tire pressure gauges at a local discount store, so being me I had to find another use for them beside checking air pressure. Less than two bucks apiece, about ten minutes work, presto-



          a dial indicator! It clocks in at 3 thou per division and it will easily show a thou without sticking or wandering. Starrett move over-
          I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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          • Another little key made yesterday.

            "...do you not think you have enough machines?"

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            • If I can make this work I'll show what I've made. first picture, a large radius fly cutter. Thanks Evan, I got the idea from you, but bolted it to the faceplate instead of putting it in the four jaw.

              http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

              The unmounted fly cutter.

              http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

              A quick set depth stop for the drill press.

              http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...PQ&feat=direct

              Next two pic's a doodad to check the truth of squares. Thanks Forrest Addy.

              http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

              http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

              A center square, the depth stop, a block to index cutters having .375 or .5 shanks, a boring bar holder, a dti holder, got the idea from one of the bedside readers, and a wiggler, I had the knurled cap and made the rest to fit it.

              http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

              A depth attachment for a dial indicator, a work stop for the 4 x 6 bandsaw, and the fly cutter again.

              http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

              An arbor to hold a saw blade for indexing workpieces, thats a 200 tooth blade.

              http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

              No. 4 Morse taper adapter for 3/4 shank flycutters, a reducer bushing for 1/2 shanks, a slitting saw holder, a single flute cutter ground from a broken punch, and a spur center for turning wood for file handles etc.

              http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
              Jim

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              • Originally posted by DICKEYBIRD
                Looks great but how does it work? I must be extra stoopid today.
                You must mic the blade of the square to make sure both edges are parallel. Then stand the square up so the blade contacts the edge of the plate (shiny spot there) and adjust the indicator so it reads zero. Now slide the square out, turn it around so the arm resting on the surface plate is now sliding underneath the base, and again contact the edge of the plate. The indicator will now show the double error amount that it's out of square.

                A nice way of verifying squareness without reference to an outside standard assumed to be square.
                .
                "People will occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of the time they will pick themselves up and carry on" : Winston Churchill

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                • Set of hold downs for the mill. For those unfamiliar with them the two sides are at an angle to each other and as you close the vise it wedges the stock down on the clamping surface. The two round pieces are extensions for my Starrett Tubular ID micrometer. Pushes the capacity out to 20 inches.





                  And a set of HSS angle tool bits for use in wedge or piston QCTPs. Done on a surface grinder with my Tool Grinding Jig

                  Last edited by Spin Doctor; 02-07-2010, 09:21 AM.
                  Forty plus years and I still have ten toes, ten fingers and both eyes. I must be doing something right.

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                  • I just finished my belt grinder. It is a KMG clone. This thread actually got me to go do the final things on it to get it working so I could post pictures.


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                    • Just a quick holder for flycutters on an R8 taper.



                      Not so much flycutters for facing where the tool has to be tilted at an angle but more for special shapes, grooves, splines, gear teeth etc. that need to be presented square to the work.

                      I grind most of mine up from broken or worn out end mills and because they can be one of many popular sizes I made the tool up above.

                      It has 4 holes at 90 degrees to each other, you can just see the second one and 4 tapped holes for clamp screws on the end face.

                      This one has 1/4", 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm holes in to suit the cutters I use. Up to you what sizes you make yours.
                      Result is no matter what blank you have, you have a ready made holder for quick and nasty jobs.

                      .
                      .

                      Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



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                      • Mattm, I'm green with envy. That's what I am just getting started on now. I bought a 1 1/2 hp motor. Am I going to have enough steam to lay into a piece of steel? Great job on your grinder and I'll bet you're going to find it extremely useful.
                        - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
                        Thank you to our families of soldiers, many of whom have given so much more then the rest of us for the Freedom we enjoy.

                        It is true, there is nothing free about freedom, don't be so quick to give it away.

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                        • YOD,
                          I put a 1 1/2 HP DC motor on mine. It really hogs the metal off. I was actually kind of surprised when I first tried it. I had some scrap angle iron laying around and I just shoved it into the belt. The motor didn't seem to bog down at all. I only have a junky belt that I found at the discount tool store but even with that it seems to work really well.

                          If you watch the video from the KMG site (http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/grinder.html#) and see how it really removes the metal. Mine works the same with the 1.5 HP motor

                          matt

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                          • hammer was found broke but is/was nice for tapping mold pins out. other two are pretty self explanitory(and really i forgot what theyre called) work good though,pigpen

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                            • Here is a pic of a spade drill I made a few years back. It takes a number 3 blade.There is a groove cut down the body on a small angle for flood coolant.
                              You can get the blades from ebay at a reasonable price. Just had some 38mm come in the mail today. > 10.00 each



                              please visit my webpage:
                              http://motorworks88.webs.com/

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by mattm
                                I just finished my belt grinder. It is a KMG clone. This thread actually got me to go do the final things on it to get it working so I could post pictures.
                                Very nice work on that Matt, putting the items together myself to build one of these. About the only thing short now is the 1 1/2sq bar.

                                What did you use as a power supply for the 1 1/2DC motor?

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