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  • I've been doing that with a MIG welder for years, but without the extra steps (part of #5 and #6).

    Not sure that it's a shop made tool though.

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    • Finally got around to making a new mallet for heavy duty work. I made one like it 30+ years ago and it served me well but was pretty beat up so I decided to make another. In case you are wondering about the dimple holes in the handle, they improve your gripping power and control tremendously. Try it, you'll like it. I learned it from an old millrite I worked with years ago. In this case the holes are about 1/4" dia by 3/16" deep. For me the holes work better than ring grooves, checkerboard or flats on the handle. The head is either UHMW or HPDE I can't remember what I bought.



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      • Very nice job on that mallet !

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        • Thanks Ken,

          It really works well, good grip and control.

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          • That should smack some material into submission.

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            • Boring bar holder for PH Horn solid carbide miniatyre boring bars:



              Maybe no need to use this so often: short solid carbide drills work quite well also as a boring bars and cost next to nothing...


              short solid carbide pcb drills work quite well also as a boring bars and cost next to nothing...plus if I break them I get more solid carbide bar stock
              Location: Helsinki, Finland, Europe

              Comment


              • Originally posted by nc5a View Post
                Finally got around to making a new mallet for heavy duty work. I made one like it 30+ years ago and it served me well but was pretty beat up so I decided to make another. In case you are wondering about the dimple holes in the handle, they improve your gripping power and control tremendously. Try it, you'll like it. I learned it from an old millrite I worked with years ago. In this case the holes are about 1/4" dia by 3/16" deep. For me the holes work better than ring grooves, checkerboard or flats on the handle. The head is either UHMW or HPDE I can't remember what I bought.
                Very nice!
                I need to make a new bossing mallet, wondering how you fastened the handle?
                Len

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                • Originally posted by QSIMDO View Post
                  Very nice!
                  I need to make a new bossing mallet, wondering how you fastened the handle?
                  I'm wondering the same thing. HDPE is soft and slippery, and UHMW is tougher, but also slippery. Neither can be glued, so what keeps the head on the handle?
                  “I know lots of people who are educated far beyond their intelligence”

                  Lewis Grizzard

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                  • My Kingway tool...

                    Needed this to continue with straightening out my Benchmaster mill.

                    1973 SB 10K .
                    BenchMaster mill.

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                    • what's it do?

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                      • It's a device, used with a test indicator, to facilitate measuring how parallel the ways on a machine are. This picture should explain. I think the picture came from Jerry Tiers...

                        1973 SB 10K .
                        BenchMaster mill.

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                        • Originally posted by MattiJ View Post
                          Boring bar holder for PH Horn solid carbide miniatyre boring bars:



                          Maybe no need to use this so often: short solid carbide drills work quite well also as a boring bars and cost next to nothing...


                          short solid carbide pcb drills work quite well also as a boring bars and cost next to nothing...plus if I break them I get more solid carbide bar stock
                          did you file in the profile for the horn?

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                          • Originally posted by dian View Post
                            did you file in the profile for the horn?
                            Tilted the mill head to get the 39.5 degree tapered slot and milled it with 2mm end mill.
                            And other side was milled with 5mm round nose end mill. TIG welded together.
                            (weld is quite ugly doodling cause I had to take more than one pass as 1045/C45 has tendency to crack on small welds without preheat)
                            Location: Helsinki, Finland, Europe

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by MattiJ View Post
                              Tilted the mill head to get the 39.5 degree tapered slot and milled it with 2mm end mill.
                              And other side was milled with 5mm round nose end mill. TIG welded together.
                              (weld is quite ugly doodling cause I had to take more than one pass as 1045/C45 has tendency to crack on small welds without preheat)
                              I see a crack or two in your weld.

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                              • Originally posted by quasi View Post
                                I see a crack or two in your weld.
                                Yeah, I wasn't overly critical as all it has to hold is the force of one M4 set screw.
                                Location: Helsinki, Finland, Europe

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