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  • Hi all - I've been following this thread for years, finally remembered to make an account and take a few pictures to share.

    Kolacek's hole saw arbor post late last year motivated me to get around to making my own, which I've been planning ever since I discovered that a 11/16-18 nut will fit over a 5/8-18 external thread. In order to guarantee a solid fit between the arbor and the back of the hole saw, I mounted the drive pins on a left-hand nut, the top portion of which is a slip fit on the 3/4" shank to keep everything square.

    The wrench flats were originally cut just to make the nut easier to hold in my mill vise to drill for the pins, but it turns out they're necessary to remove the hole saw after use, since it gets so torqued down while cutting. I admit I was in a bit of a rush with the bluing, so there are some light spots, I wasn't originally intending for it to look too pretty. One day I'll probably make another drive plate with the larger pin configuration, once I run into a project that needs a 3" hole saw in the mill.

    Edit: looks like my images might not show up inline, album is here: https://imgur.com/a/o6mYr8o




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    • GOT ME THINKING, I just built a propane forge and could use it in a crude manner to do some tempering. I have some bimetallic thermometers and will try it. If all works out may have to build and electric one.
      Last edited by Ed ke6bnl; 05-16-2018, 07:41 PM.
      Ed
      Agua Dulce, So.California
      1950 F1 street rod
      1949 F1 stock V8 flathead
      1948 F6 350 chevy/rest stock, no dump bed
      1953 chevy 3100 AD for 85 S10 frame have a 4BT cummins motor, NV4500
      1968 Baha Bug with 2.2 ecotec motor, king coil-overs,P/S

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      • hello

        I am happy to hear that

        Nice design too, even 3 parts less than mine(i forgot to mention extraction spring).

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        • This is more of a modification for a tool. One thing that bugs me is shadows caused by cutters so I bought a ebay $5 ring light. It didn't quite feel like it would work on the mill quill so I paired it with a $1 ebay loc- line and a wall adapter to make a ring light for my little drill press.

          Happy with it so far.

          Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

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          • Mattt,

            Can you provide any E bay info on that ring light? did you make the aluminum part? Would like to try what you have done.

            TX
            Mr fixit for the family
            Chris

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            • Originally posted by mattthegamer463 View Post
              ... a ring light for my little drill press. ...
              Nice. I'm inspired to do something like that.

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              • Originally posted by Mr Fixit View Post
                Mattt,

                Can you provide any E bay info on that ring light? did you make the aluminum part? Would like to try what you have done.

                TX
                Mr fixit for the family
                Chris
                Its a 100mm white LED ring light used for aftermarket daytime running lights on cars. It comes with its own voltage and current regulator so it runs easily off just a wall adapter.

                https://www.ebay.ca/itm/12V-COB-LED-...qNJvFfwuHGIr5g

                This is the off brand loc line I used https://www.ebay.ca/itm/300mm-Plasti...t/192448493073

                I made the ring from 3/16" aluminum plate, using an insert parting tool to groove the face to fit the LED by friction.

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                • Originally posted by mattthegamer463 View Post
                  This is more of a modification for a tool. One thing that bugs me is shadows caused by cutters so I bought a ebay $5 ring light. It didn't quite feel like it would work on the mill quill so I paired it with a $1 ebay loc- line and a wall adapter to make a ring light for my little drill press.

                  Happy with it so far.

                  Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
                  What happens when a chip gets hold of that light and pulls it into the quill or drill?

                  Brian
                  OPEN EYES, OPEN EARS, OPEN MIND

                  THINK HARDER

                  BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE

                  MY NAME IS BRIAN AND I AM A TOOLOHOLIC

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                  • What a great idea. I have two mills that could do with this modification. I currently use a magnetic base halogen lamp but it gets really hot, wastes energy when it's not actually lit up (the transformer is always on) and it casts really harsh shadows. I love it!
                    Regards,
                    Preso

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                    • Originally posted by bborr01 View Post
                      What happens when a chip gets hold of that light and pulls it into the quill or drill?

                      Brian
                      It breaks the light and the wire going to it and then Matt gets to blow another $10 on a new one. They are small and light enough to not do much damage. I mounted one onto my mini mill but it is too high up and doesn't put enough light where the end mill is.

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                      • Originally posted by RMinMN View Post
                        It breaks the light and the wire going to it and then Matt gets to blow another $10 on a new one. They are small and light enough to not do much damage. I mounted one onto my mini mill but it is too high up and doesn't put enough light where the end mill is.
                        mine go caught one and I had to redo it. I just to the angle light and and clued magnets to it and just sticks to the outside of the quill no fancy holder.
                        Ed
                        Agua Dulce, So.California
                        1950 F1 street rod
                        1949 F1 stock V8 flathead
                        1948 F6 350 chevy/rest stock, no dump bed
                        1953 chevy 3100 AD for 85 S10 frame have a 4BT cummins motor, NV4500
                        1968 Baha Bug with 2.2 ecotec motor, king coil-overs,P/S

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by bborr01 View Post
                          What happens when a chip gets hold of that light and pulls it into the quill or drill?

                          Brian
                          If the work will lead to chips that are that big, and you're not able to pause and break them off, and they're strong enough to knock the light, and the light is in a position where it can get hooked up on something instead of just rubbing, then you can always move it out of the way and shine it at the work from the side.

                          Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

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                          • Whipped up a mill stop from leftover rods and clamps from a cheap indicator arm. I stole the magnet for the flexible lamp I made so it was lying around, and I didn't have any way to repeat the placement of parts in the mill.

                            Made a base out of aluminum scrap and used a 3/8" bolt with a piece of 3/8" square HRS welded on top as a lock. Just loosen and slide out of the T slot. A regular T nut from my lamp set is underneath. In place of the indicator holder is a 3/8" CRS rod with a rounded tip to go against the work. Can easily be adjusted just about any way to ensure clearance from the cutter.

                            Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

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                            • This is a little die that a made to make a .047od x .020id x .003 thick washer that I used as a shim on a micro wobbler steam engine that I built.





                              -Bob

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                              • This is a small shop made internal threading tool that was used to cut a 10-32 LH thread.





                                -Bob

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