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  • Hi,

    Nice job on the threading tool. I've done a few oddballs like that over the years. Those little ones really are hard to make. And so easy to break when used. Guard it with your life!
    If you think you understand what is going on, you haven't been paying attention.

    Comment


    • I decided I should get into a drill sharpenjng jig to try to make drill bits that actually drill close to size, instead of the wonky results of my hand grinding. Particularly on smaller drills.

      I bought one of these common ones which I saw a lot of love and hate for online, but for $25 CAD I thought it was worth a try. It's not something I want to use 8 hours a day but it works and with some practice I was able to rehab one of my stub drills that I murdered.

      My welding table clamp system worked great to mount the sharpener next to my grinder.

      Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

      Comment


      • I have one of those and for me it works a treat. Took a bit of experimenting to find the right angle to hold the drill to get the relief angle I wanted (you change it by rotating the drill ever so slightly one way or another) but I've since sharpened over 100 drills with it. If that's the original wheel that came with your grinder you may want to look into replacement wheels. I bought a 100grit white Norton wheel for mine and it cuts very well but leaves a lovely finish.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by mattthegamer463 View Post
          Its a 100mm white LED ring light used for aftermarket daytime running lights on cars. It comes with its own voltage and current regulator so it runs easily off just a wall adapter.

          https://www.ebay.ca/itm/12V-COB-LED-...qNJvFfwuHGIr5g

          ...
          I got one of those and I did not have the same experience. Mine is quite dim: at 6" distance, it's intensity is 730 lux. Compared to 1370 lux on my bench top from LED tubes 36" above. Running off a 12v battery. I'm tempted to diddle with it, but I doubt that it's worth my time.

          Comment


          • I spotted from Little Machine Shop a MT2 tailstock accessory that could attach a 3" import lathe chuck to use as a live centre. I had the chuck, seemed silly to spend over $100 USD for the MT2 mount.

            I found a MT2 live centre at Princess Auto for $20, a key feature on it was the entire end rotated and not just the point. I cut off the point, made an adapter plate froman old scrap 6061 machine roller, and did a shrink fit on the head of the live centre.

            Works pretty good so far, should be nice for supporting items I don't want to centre drill or things like pipes without a bull nose centre.

            Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

            Comment


            • Originally posted by 90LX_Notch View Post
              This is a little die that a made to make a .047od x .020id x .003 thick washer that I used as a shim on a micro wobbler steam engine that I built.





              -Bob
              so you punch the washer in one step?

              Comment


              • Originally posted by mattthegamer463 View Post
                I decided I should get into a drill sharpenjng jig to try to make drill bits that actually drill close to size, instead of the wonky results of my hand grinding. Particularly on smaller drills.

                I bought one of these common ones which I saw a lot of love and hate for online, but for $25 CAD I thought it was worth a try. It's not something I want to use 8 hours a day but it works and with some practice I was able to rehab one of my stub drills that I murdered.

                My welding table clamp system worked great to mount the sharpener next to my grinder.

                Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
                I have always done my drill bits by hand, but eyes getting older, glasses thicker, etc, I'm more than ready to admit that I could use an alternative. I can still manage the larger ones OK by hand. What's the smallest drill you've been able to do a job on that you were happy with?
                "A machinist's (WHAP!) best friend (WHAP! WHAP!) is his hammer. (WHAP!)" - Fred Tanner, foreman, Lunenburg Foundry and Engineering machine shop, circa 1979

                Comment


                • Originally posted by dian View Post
                  so you punch the washer in one step?
                  He'd need at least two strokes of the tool to get one finished washer.

                  That is an example of a follow-on tool: each stroke pierces one hole (ID) and blanks a second (OD).

                  The material must advance to a position that centers the pierced hole under the blanking punch. Upon the second stroke of the tool, the tit on the nose of the blanking punch enters the pierced hole, helping final alignment.

                  Comment


                  • Dian-

                    No. First the .020 diameter hole is punched: then that is set on the .020 pilot of the .047 punch. The .047 diameter is then punched producing the washer. This was a very simple die that was made in order to produce one usable washer/shim. If you look at the pictures you can make out the .020 punch. It is simply a piece of .020 music wire. The .047 punch was made from drill rod. The "dies" that the punches go through are simply holes drilled through the aluminum "die set".

                    It is the type of thing that people would scoff at and state everything that is wrong with it, except it worked well. After I got the one required brass washer/shim I produced a bunch more to see if the aluminum would hold up. It did fine. I then proceeded to punch .0015 Precision Brand steel shim stock. Then I punched .002 steel feeler gauge stock. Only after punching the steel did a .0002 burr start to form. The first picture shows the .002 thick shim stock washers.

                    -Bob

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by mickeyf View Post
                      I have always done my drill bits by hand, but eyes getting older, glasses thicker, etc, I'm more than ready to admit that I could use an alternative. I can still manage the larger ones OK by hand. What's the smallest drill you've been able to do a job on that you were happy with?
                      I've only done a couple drills so far, a 1/4" being the smallest. Even at that size getting the drill re-indexed when rotating it to do the other edge was difficult, but it did produce a very nice drill in the end. I'm not in love with the sharpener and I'm working on a design for one that uses an ER32 collet block.

                      Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by mattthegamer463 View Post
                        I've only done a couple drills so far, a 1/4" being the smallest. Even at that size getting the drill re-indexed when rotating it to do the other edge was difficult, but it did produce a very nice drill in the end. I'm not in love with the sharpener and I'm working on a design for one that uses an ER32 collet block.

                        Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
                        That little metal indexer in front should help when you turn the drill around.
                        Helder Ferreira
                        Setubal, Portugal

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by mattthegamer463 View Post
                          Its a 100mm white LED ring light used for aftermarket daytime running lights on cars. It comes with its own voltage and current regulator so it runs easily off just a wall adapter. ...
                          Did you happen to measure the voltage & current out of the regulator? Mine is 8v & 125ma = 1w. There's 72 diodes, likely 2 serial sets of 36 in parallel. 125ma through 36 in parallel is only 3-1/2ma per. 14mw per. That's not very much.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Noitoen View Post
                            That little metal indexer in front should help when you turn the drill around.
                            It does but the slots it slides in are a very loose fit so it doesnt work repeatably. The distance you stick it into the drill flute has a large impact on the position and with small drills it only gets trickier. It takes some practice, and I definitely need more.

                            Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by Noitoen View Post
                              That little metal indexer in front should help when you turn the drill around.
                              I have a similar device to the one in Matt's photo.
                              I found that the little black pointer was a reason for inaccuracy because it bears on the angled web under the cutting edge.
                              I now align the cutting edges before each clamping by eyeball down the cutting edge to the nose of the casting. Not perfect nor perfectly consistent , but I usually get good enough drills.
                              (Photo posted before I think)
                              https://app.box.com/s/qi7pa57yqtubniwfwlxjrpgr6frlakc0

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Bob Engelhardt View Post
                                Did you happen to measure the voltage & current out of the regulator? Mine is 8v & 125ma = 1w. There's 72 diodes, likely 2 serial sets of 36 in parallel. 125ma through 36 in parallel is only 3-1/2ma per. 14mw per. That's not very much.
                                The measured that the regulator is consuming 250mA at 12V. About 3 watts total. I haven't counted the number of diodes or speculated on the arrangement.

                                Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

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