Shop Made Tools

[mars-red]

I thought luan too, but the color doesn't look just right in the picture. That may be an effect of the lighting.

Max, if you have a sizeable scrap of the wood left could you post head-on picture of the side of the board?

Luan often shows strange looking changes in the grain pattern, hard to describe but it looks as if the grain just suddenly takes off in a different direction. I'll see if I can get a picture of that effect to Post with tapatalk. That is if I can remember how

I think I understand what you're saying about the odd grain direction, and if so then this stuff does seem to have that. I think most of the color difference in the photos is due to the oil I had just applied. In the days since, it has settled down and lost a little bit of the reddish hue. Not exactly sure which angle you wanted, so I tossed a little unlisted video clip up on my YT channel: https://youtu.be/laq4CZ1fh7M

[J Harp]

Yep, that looks a lot like luan to me. The grain pattern I mentioned will sometimes almost look like two pieces of wood glued together, but it's really only one piece.
I can't see that effect in your video. I know I have some scraps that showed it, but they are hiding out, I'll probably find them when I'm not looking for them.

[MattiJ]

Quick and dirty boring head for mill:



I still have to turn suitable W12 arbor if I plan to use that on my tiny F1 Aciera.
Might actually cut the boring head from 50mm to 30mm or so as it is ridiculously large compared to rest of the mill.

[Cenedd]

Ah, I see. It makes sense now. The part that looked like layout fluid had run is a relief slit for the clamp.
Does it just use one tooth of the end mill as the cutting edge rather than a lathe-style tool?

[MattiJ]

Ah, I see. It makes sense now. The part that looked like layout fluid had run is a relief slit for the clamp.
Does it just use one tooth of the end mill as the cutting edge rather than a lathe-style tool?

Yes, it uses only one teeth of scrapped end mill. Usually there is at least one good tooth left on my carbide endmills.. Or just sharpen new edge to it.
Carbide endmills should be pretty rigid and allow me to use quite large hangout even if its just a 6mm shank.

I actually angled the boring bar mounting holes so that they are angled outwards at couple of degrees so I can use old endmill without any grinding as a boring bar and still have clearance angle behind cutting edge.

[Norseman C.B.]

That looks like yet another neat little toy for me to make thanks for the share .......

[Alpino]

Hello everyone. For some time I have been following you from Italy. You are an inspiration for me. I will post something from my workshop shortly, as a contribution to the beautiful forum.: D

[Toolguy]

Welcome to the forums, Alpino!

[Illinoyance]

I wonder if there's a way to keep the bottom from getting scratched with use.

Add 3 or 4 self adhesive cork or felt discs to the bottom.

[mattthegamer463]

Add 3 or 4 self adhesive cork or felt discs to the bottom.

Has to be done with minimal added thickness to minimize parallax error. Someone mentioned clear tape which makes sense to me.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

[Dave C]

Hello everyone. For some time I have been following you from Italy. You are an inspiration for me. I will post something from my workshop shortly, as a contribution to the beautiful forum.: D

Bon Giorno Alpino. I for one look forward to posts from your shop.

[Alpino]

Jig

Here is a job for my welding and multipurpose clamps that I get from parts of Denver's bandit machine. I needed the Manetti i for sighting, I built the jig to make enlargement in one fell swoop and with a better finish.

IMG 20181229 233042 

Resize 2018 12 30 00 07 30 011 

[Dave C]

I don't see the pix.

[MikeH]

I made a toe jack and skate set:



The skates are made from 3" square tubing from the roll bar of a bulldozer, with 5/8" dill rod and 8 99502H bearings pressed on.
The toe jack is a Harbor Freight 8 ton jack and a mixture of 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 bar stock.
All I had to buy was the jack, springs, drill rod, and bearings.
I drilled through the two parts of the handle and pressed in a roll pin to stop them from separating.
The rubber "tread plate" is to reduce the sliding of the skates under the machine due to variations in the floor taking some of the weight off of any one of the skates. (I hope it works that way, it is basically an experiment).
The jack is a 8 ton unit. I know the assembly will not handle that kind of weight, but I figured the extra diameter of its ram and cylinder would better handle the radial stress.

Edit, enlarged picture and corrected verbiage.

[3 Phase Lightbulb]

Not really a shop made tool, but they are very useful around the shop. Got some tools that often need an Allen wrench or two for general use? Stick one of these on the machine and they magically hold the Allen wrench on the machine already ready to be used. Need to find studs in a wall or ceiling? Let a bunch of these show you the location and direction of the studs (nails/screws). I also "soft" mount things so the side of machines with 4 of these on each corner of the magnetic item -- like soft mounting an electrical box so it "breaks-away" if under stress. The steel cabinet door on my surface grinder didn't stay closed by itself until I tossed one of these little guys on the inside lip of the door -- now the door stays closed with the help of some magnetic force. Changing the oil in your machines? Drop some of these in there to help some of the floating bits from circulating around your gear boxes... Are you dying to give yourself a really good finger pinch? Let two of these guys do it for you... Many, many uses around the shop...

1/2" x 1/8" Neodymium magnets (If link is broken just search for the prior text)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-100-500pcs-12mm-x-3mm-1-2-x-1-8-N52-Strong-Rare-Earth-Neodymium-Magnet-Disc/302030262749

1/2" x 1/4" Neodymium magnets (If link is broken just search for the prior text)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-10-25pc-12mm-x-6mm-1-2-x-1-4-N52-Strong-Rare-Earth-Neodymium-Magnet-Disc/302030266388