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Simply move your beer-fridge into the 'shop and you could be safe for weeks!
The Shed of Danger is already at cellar temperature to suit Proper Beer, I suppose I could get a fridge for the girly prosecco, or use the one with the Loctite in it if I allow 'em in...
Dave H. (the other one)
Rules are for the obedience of fools, and the guidance of wise men.
Holbrook Model C Number 13 lathe, Testa 2U universal mill, bikes and tools
I suppose I could get a fridge for the girly prosecco, or use the one with the Loctite in it if I allow 'em in...
Oh you don't want to allow others in.... defeats the point! Maybe if they can answer a basic machining question to prove they're worthy of being saved!
On a serious note, hope that everyone is ok and stays that way - both physically and mentally (apply booze as required!). Stay safe and may none of you run out of bog roll!
Last edited by Cenedd; 03-22-2020, 02:42 PM.
Reason: Correction of fat-fingered'ness
It took me a minute to realize that what you really said was: "Very nice _,_ mower". Before that I was looking for the post about somebody's lawn mower.
+1, very nice.
However, what gets me with virtually all ER chucks i've seen mounted straight onto the spindle, is the apparent excessive overhang.
Or is it just me?
We'd need to look at the length of the parts and how they can or can't fit into each other. But consider that the nose on these lathes (that's a 9" South Bend I believe?) is at least 1.25" long and probably more like 1.4'ish. Add to that the 46mm or 1.8" long collet itself. So pretty well unavoidable that it would be 3.25" long at least. And on a fairly compact lathe it'll look like it sticks out a lot.
A couple of years ago I posted details of my own 5C collet chuck. I did make mine a bit longer out of need due to the design of my lathe bed. In my case the length of the collet chuck was unavoidable to avoid the carriage riding off the end of the bed rails. But in Mower's case I suspect it's just about as short as it can be given the stack lengths of the parts.
Homemade cut knurling tool - I still need to make few different pitch knurl wheels - those are 1mm or about 25 tpi. I am quite happy with results, although I can still refine the setting to height.
+1, very nice.
However, what gets me with virtually all ER chucks i've seen mounted straight onto the spindle, is the apparent excessive overhang.
Or is it just me?
It ain't just you. I see it with most of the collet chucks for whatever type.
I suppose that if you want a 5C on an MT3 spindle, you are stuck, it's built-in by the sizes. But that overhang looks like it could easily defeat all the repeatability and accuracy of having a collet. YMMV, I guess.
Browne and sharp made stubby collets for turret lathes. Sort of like the front part of a 5C. THAT could be made pretty short as a collet chuck, and would not hold any worse than a regular 5C, probably better. I think they had rubber between the sections like a Jacobs collet, but I have never seen one in person. I'd bet you cannot get those anymore, or if you can, you won;t like the price.
CNC machines only go through the motions.
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Not responsible for clerical errors. Or those made by lay people either.
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I reserve the right to use a number system with any integer base without prior notice.
Generalizations are understood to be "often" true, but not true in every case.
Homemade cut knurling tool - I still need to make few different pitch knurl wheels - those are 1mm or about 25 tpi. I am quite happy with results, although I can still refine the setting to height.
Very nice Boats. Care to comment on the merits of cut knurling vs deformation knurling for the uninformed? Assume it requires less tool pressure but then there must be a reason this isn't the default. Presumably, given the angles, it must travel to cut a knurl that wide?
Homemade cut knurling tool - I still need to make few different pitch knurl wheels - those are 1mm or about 25 tpi. I am quite happy with results, although I can still refine the setting to height.
Boats, very nice job indeed. Do they and "compatible" diameter like deformation knurls, or is there a maximum?
Very nice Boats. Care to comment on the merits of cut knurling vs deformation knurling for the uninformed? Assume it requires less tool pressure but then there must be a reason this isn't the default. Presumably, given the angles, it must travel to cut a knurl that wide?
Yes, this must travel along the workpiece to cut the knurl. This is from the Dorian Knurling Catalogue:
I have a cheapie self-centering form knurler, it works well enough on softer materials but I feel that it takes a lot of pressure and I feel pity for my Super 11’s cross slide and spindle when using it. This cut knurler uses a lot less pressure to cut.
Thanks, that's interesting. Ok, so sounds like you can't easily start and stop in the middle of a part "Band in center of the part" but given your picture, I'm not convinced by "When high surface finish is not required"....it looks better than any of my (admittedly few) attempts at form knurling!
Boats, very nice job indeed. Do they and "compatible" diameter like deformation knurls, or is there a maximum?
I am not sure I am 100% following your question, so two aspects covered, if I missed the point please try again!
1. It seems to work better/easier if you match the diameter of the workpiece to some extend to the pitch of knurl wheel - eg with a 1mm pitch the diameter should be some integer multiple of 1mm.
2. I suppose there is some maximum workpiece diameter, anything that allows both the wheels to make contact seems to work OK.
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