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  • Coil winder for winding miniature ignition coils using plans from Bob Shores book. Model Ignition Coils and Magnetos in Miniature.

    This coils secondary has 12,600 turns of #44 magnet wire which is about .002" diameter and a piece of wax paper goes between each of the 53 layers.

    The #44 wire spools of the end of a coil (sitting on the floor) and goes out the upside down funnel.
    Thru a felt friction pad, over a pulley then thru a hanging weighted pulley and back up to another pulley and then thru guides to the coil. If wire breaks have to start all over as it can't be spliced.


    • Good Lord Gary, where do you find the time?!??

      That coil winding machine looks great.



      PS Just as valuable as telling where you find the time is telling us where you find the space? Room for things like a coil winder that can't have been used too many times. Must be tons of interesting stuff lurking around your shop.
      Try G-Wizard Machinist's Calculator for free:


      • Some great stuff guys!!

        Here's a mill hammer I made this weekend. It takes 1-1/2" replaceable tips on one end and has a 1/2" sockets on the other as well as the end of the handle (to use as a T-handle). It's loaded with shot. I didn't want to limit myself to just a draw bar hammer so I went with sockets.

        Here's my version of Lautard's Po'Boy's Jig Borer from the 2nd Bedside Reader. The work is pushed into the corner fence and by spacing the drill bushing holder out from the fence you can get accurate locations with just a drill press.

        Some more projects are in my PM blog. Link in my signature.
        Last edited by moldmonkey; 02-21-2010, 10:31 PM.
        Jon Bohlander
        My PM Blog


        • As I posted before, my stuff is uuuuuuugly. But I make them and use them anyway, so I'll share a couple.

          First is a spanner wrench for the slim nut that holds my indexer's indexing plate from spinning. I learned that sometimes I need to adjust the plate to match a feature of whatever the 3C collet is holding. It's a hassle getting that nut loose without disturbing things.

          The spanner is simply a bar of 1/2 inch aluminum (6061 most likely) that was cut to the rough shape on a wood cutting band-saw. Then I mounted it on the mill and used a boring bar to cut the curve to match the nut. It was an interrupted cut, so I used a HSS boring bar.

          I used the easy way when making the pin to fit the hole. A 6/32 screw from my junk box into a tapped hole. The problem arose when I tried to reverse the wrench and found that the 1/2 inch wide blade put the pin way off center when reversed. A second screw just like the first took care of that. They are side by side. I should have just milled the wrench down to 1/4 inch, but that would have been a lot of work.

          The only other one worth showing is the er32 collet block I made to use in my lathe. I have a nice er32 collet chuck with a MT3 arbor to mount it in the lathe, but the arbor uses a draw bar so you can not pass stock all the way though the lathe headstock. I like the collets, so I made this block with a hole in the back. It trues up in the 4 jaw pretty easy.

          At the end of the project, there is a profound difference between spare parts and left over parts.

          Location: SF East Bay.


          • Part 1, Black Oxide

            OK, I ran out of time and energy to work on tweaking it this weekend. But I'll tell you what I know, and tell ya more later

            First "Keelan" did a write up of the process here, but you must join to access this area of the forum:

            If you don't want to join, you can see the results on some of his wrenches here:

            As you can see, he is working with old wrenches, so he began by removing the rust by electrolysis. I'm working with new parts, so it is not necessary. But I do wash new or machined metal thoroughly with dish soap and hot water, using an old disposable electric toothbrush. If you are not using the disposable type, just use a family members.

            The basic recipe, as he describes it is:

            1/3 cup hydrogen peroxide
            1 Tbsp vinegar
            1 tsp salt

            Mix together in a plastic or glass container (ask the boss before you use her stuff, for your own protection) and drop your parts in. Watch the bubbles! Leave them there a half hour or more. My second try (my big nuts) I replenished the solution halfway through (dumped the old).

            Boil some water, enough to cover the parts. Once the parts look nice and rusty, drop them in. In a minute or two, they turn black.

            Quoting Keelan- "I tossed the wrench on a cooling rack to cool, then took it to the sink. Using a worn out green scotch-brite pad, I scrubbed the loose black iron oxide off of the wrench."

            I skipped that and went straight too the sink, parts held in tongs. There was no oxide. I had a feeling there would be a problem with shiny new metal or freshly machined, smooth metal. So, the first try was experimental (as is most of my life), and I used some 1/4" barstock cut off to make a couple of roughly 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" squares. I had fly cut one side on each, ground one edge on each, and wire brushed an edge. The unfinished side remained a nice black, and the machined, ground or brushed sides changed to differing shades of gray just from rinsing. I went to bed defeated
            Last edited by knudsen; 02-22-2010, 01:02 AM.


            • Part 2

              So the next time, with the knurled nuts, I was prepared. I had a can of Loctite 81849 ready. You can get it at auto parts or discount stores under many names now, in the body section, but it must be aerosol. Brush on won't work. Just look for rust converter that says it turns rust to primer. This works:

              This won't:

              So, I let them soak in the solution twice as long before boiling, as I said, I replenished about half way through. I did that because it quit bubbling. Bubbles are fun, but not for long, so I don't know when it stopped, as I had walked off.

              Boiled - rinsed as before, and as I expected, the rougher knurled areas too the black color better. The smooth areas did come out darker than the first try. You can also repeat the process to deepen it, but I went for the extend. I put the nuts on a tool I'll call coffee stir on a cup:

              So I sprayed from four sides, several coats. Turned them 180 and repeated. Then turned looking for light or rusty areas, turned to that point and repeated. I probably waited 5 minutes between coats and before turning them. The next day, I repeated the process, then let dry several days before oiling lightly. I did not worry about the threads.

              The nuts were not bad before extend, but I wanted to match the darker tool holders.

              Next I am planning to experiment with etching the metal a little before the treatment. I happen to have a 5 gal jug of ferric chloride solution, and if you saw my Loot! thread, about a zillion sockets and some old wrenches to work on. I'm interested in seeing what happens with intact chrome, new steel and old, but not pitted tools. I also might try sulfuric or other acids.
              Last edited by knudsen; 02-22-2010, 12:59 AM. Reason: Fix stuff


              • Part 3

                Next I am planning to experiment with etching the metal a little before the treatment. I happen to have a 5 gal jug of ferric chloride solution, and if you saw my Loot! thread, about a zillion sockets and some old wrenches to work on. I'm interested in seeing what happens with intact chrome, new steel and old, but not pitted tools. I also might try sulfuric or other acids. While looking into feric chlorides effects on steel, I found this, which explains how some of this works, sort of:

                I'll put part three here when I know what to put here

                Uptade: ferric chloride is fun. Stripped the chrome off a socket in 5 hours.
                Last edited by knudsen; 02-23-2010, 10:51 AM.


                • Ok.. I gotta say I am very impressed with ALL the posts and projects. This thread has got to be one of the best examples of what HSM is about. There is no second guessing a guys work. Just an appreciation of the fine examples of what can be accomplished.

                  The craftsmanship shown in the replies makes me want to get out and work in the shop.

                  This thread should become a "sticky" at the top. Not becuase it might get lost, there is a current supply of great postings to keep it at the top. But it should be a sticky for the new members that arrive and want to get a feel for the group.

                  This thread is a prime example of what HSM is all about. JR


                  • Originally posted by gary hart
                    Yup, Bob, you got me pegged. Spend too much time in the shop and no place to put stuff.......... gary
                    Gary, the lever on the coil winder looks brass plated. Have you been doing some plating? That'd make a nice thread if you're so inclined.

                    I'm always fascinated by the metal finishing processes.



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                    • Originally posted by BobWarfield
                      Gary, the lever on the coil winder looks brass plated. Have you been doing some plating? ................. BW
                      Found those brass knobs at a garage sale in a junk box. Just recently bought electroless nickel plating kit from Caswell. Only have done a test piece so far. gary


                      • Originally posted by Jim Stabe
                        Don't wait til it's done, post some in progress shots. I'd post some of the one I built but there isn't a "mamage attachments" section on this board. How do you post pictures here?
                        Get a Photobucket account, or one from a similar website, upload your pictures and post the [IMG] code from that website. There are some pretty good instructions in the sticky post at the top of the General section if you need more help than that.

                        For example: here is a table I built for my Smithy 1220LX. It is unique because each of the casters are adjustable in height so it is easy to move around the shop. (not really a tool per-say, but very useful nonetheless)

                        and here is another with the 1220LX installed.

                        Last edited by BillDaCatt; 02-24-2010, 05:57 PM.


                        • An external hone, blatant ripoff of Sunnen hone. V-block is Turcite lined and stone is a replacement brake hone stone from the car store. It doesn't say by I think it's silicon carbide by the cutting action. I'll experiment with aluminum oxide, alternate shoes etc.

                          This was built initially to scribe graduation marks on dials. It's sturdy enough it also serves as a hand shaper for internal keyways. Again Turcite lining on square ways - clamp up with shims while the epoxy dries and it's automatically fitted to the slide.

                          "People will occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of the time they will pick themselves up and carry on" : Winston Churchill


                          • Grinding cart on wheels. One plug in power cord supplies the cart. Under the table is a motor and fan like used for sawdust collectors that fit on a 55 gallon barrel. This fan fits between the plenum chamber built under the table and the cyclone dust collector on side. Ducting and shut of valve for each grinder except the drill sharpener.

                            Can be pushed outside for cleaning on longer messy session of grinding. There are 7 grinders. In this view you see the Quick Change grinder with extra wheels mounted on arbors. Carbide grinder with diamond wheels on top right and Burr-King copy belt grinder. Other side (and looks lower) of Burr King is a Baldor bench grinder which has a CBN wheel on far side.

                            Backside has a SRD drill sharpener atop a Baldor grinder

                            Left side shows the cyclone. Scaled down version of wood dust collector, had found plans someplace on the net, but don't recall where.
                            To the right is the BIG Wheel. It is one of those woven nylon wheels with abrasive in it.

                            More on The Quick Change Grinder. Started grinder after reading something by John Dean in a early issue of HSM. It is a quick change grinder where wheels are mounted on 3/4 arbors and the arbors are held by a 3/4" R-8 collet. Years later did a redo and changed motor to DC for speed control and reverse. That is when this picture was taken.


                            • Gary, you are killing me with this stuff! That grinder cart is sweet.


                              • Originally posted by gzig5
                                Gary, you are killing me with this stuff! That grinder cart is sweet.
                                I agree! Now I feel dumb with my little project of the 2x72 belt grinder

                                I'll take some pics of where I am today and get them up. The hold up was figuring a way to make it adaptable to both 60" and 72" belts. So far I'm pleased with the progress. Have to find me some 2" wide 1/4" thick leather that I can glue to my wheel. Ain't no way in hell I'm going to spend upwards of $150.00 for a rubber coated one so I'm using a 8" caster wheel.
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