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  • Originally posted by rcaffin View Post
    Just checking: it was the commercial tool holder (square bar holding inset) which had the ridge?
    I hate it when I cannot rely on the tools themselves.

    Cheers
    Roger
    Yep, you got it—the square-ish thing which holds the insert. It never occurred to me to check it before using it—one tends to assume that any tool-maker is not unfamiliar with the concept of a right-angle.

    And TG Tool wrote "My QCTP parting tool holder also has a slight angle at the bottom. It's there to help hold the tool inward against the vertical face. Since it's such a narrow ledge it's possible to have downward pressure from cutting force the blade to slide off."

    My tool holders are 16mm "square", and I milled the grooves in the two new tool-posts 15mm deep. So there's just one millimetre of tool holder standing proud of the groove for me to sight on to line up parallel to the cross-slide's edge.
    Since the insert's tip and the tool-post hold-down bolt(s) are not in line, the reaction to the advance of the cutter into the work will cause a rotational moment which has to be resisted by the friction caused by the clamping forces of the set screws holding the tool-holder in the groove, and by the friction of the bottom face of the tool-post on the compound or cross-slide. The former are three M8 set-screws, which will strongly resist any slippage. The latter is just one M10 stud holding down the smaller tool-post to the compound, or two M6(!) bolts holding the compound or the big tool-post to the cross-slide. The cross-slide does not, alas, have any tee-slots in it, just two crappy M6 captive bolts which I have now replaced with stronger ones, though the circular groove those bolts slide around in on the cross-slide (to enable the compound's angle to be varied) mean I can't make them any fatter. The lathe is an otherwise nice 10 x 20, but the cross-slide is definitely a sub-optimal design. (See https://www.machineryhouse.co.nz/L149).
    Last edited by Mike Burch; 08-10-2020, 07:40 PM.

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    • The cross-slide does not, alas, have any tee-slots in it, just two crappy M6 captive bolts
      Um - the lack of T-slots is a bit inhibiting.

      Cheers
      Roger

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      • Following up my thread about turning a taper on end mill holder (https://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/fo...orizontal-mill), here is the result:
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        There really is a taper there, but it's only 1.1955* (Brown & Sharpe #9). I was/am so proud of the end mill socket - the end mill is a piston fit. I.e., air pressure builds up when inserting the end mill. There's 0.001 TIR on the end mill mounted on the mill. Many can do better, but it is my best.

        Making the final adjustment on the compound angle, I bumped it for a 0.001 move on an indicator at the end of a 7" arm. That's a 30 arc second change. But it made a difference in the fit.

        Now that I have the compound set, I should make some more holders. Maybe one for a drill chuck.

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        • Or maybe you should quit while you're ahead.
          “I know lots of people who are educated far beyond their intelligence”

          Lewis Grizzard

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          • Originally posted by Bob Engelhardt View Post
            There's 0.001 TIR on the end mill mounted on the mill.
            Wait until it's less ludicrously hot in the shop and measure it then!

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            • Nice job, Bob! I have a Sheldon Horizontal mill with a #9 B&S taper. I made a couple toolholders, also. I'm pretty proud of them. I made a couple extras, I'm really glad I did so, when I needed a shank for a face mill, the blank was waiting in the cabinet. WIN!
              I cut it off twice; it's still too short
              Oregon, USA

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              • I turned a taper wiper for the Morse #3 spindles in the mill/drill and the lathe's tailstock. I don't turn many tapers, and it's always a bit of an adventure setting up the compound. I got it as accurate as I could without going completely mad, and I figured that the felt strips would easily make up for any slight infelicities. The material is a bit of 25.4mm (1") round aluminium bar, with four strips of self-adhesive felt I discovered lurking at the back of the glue box.

                One of those small and simple but satisfying jobs which tick another line off the "to do sometime" list.
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                Last edited by Mike Burch; 08-15-2020, 06:29 AM.

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                • .Hello! This is my first post and I am very glad to be a member of the forum.
                  Recently I made myself a small milling machine and it turned out that not a single center search design I know fits into the working space between the machine spindle and the workpiece. I had to come up with a device that suits me, it works like a hole diameter measuring device with.
                  I bring to your attention the resulting construction for finding the center of holes or protruding circles
                  You may only view thumbnails in this gallery. This gallery has 4 photos.
                  Last edited by pensioner; 08-17-2020, 08:42 AM.

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                  • Welcome Pensioner, very nice work on your mill, please start a new thread and tell us more about it. (with more pictures please...) It looks like you took some ques from the Deckel folks or is it all your own design thoughts? Jim

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                    • Thanks Jim, I still need to learn how to write to the forum and correctly set images in a larger size. The problem is that I don’t know English and I use Google translator, I’m in Ukraine.
                      Making machine tools is my hobby, having become a retiree, I have never worked in metal processing and I don’t know much, I just love this entertainment.
                      Here is a video of the operation of this device https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXU4YfK4h70 also on my YouTube channel you can see my self-made machines.
                      Ivan

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                      • Guard for the machine from a visor from a motorcycle helmet
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                        • Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0523.JPG Views:	0 Size:	1.90 MB ID:	1893938 Small homemade vise made of random cast iron parts. The working field is 62 x 62 x 23 millimeters, the jaws are hardened and have no traces of attachment on the working surfaces. Good accuracy. Click image for larger version

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                          Last edited by pensioner; 08-21-2020, 12:48 AM.

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                          • An inclined table for a milling or surface grinding machine, I use it here and there. Made from a piece of the front guide part of the bed of an old lathe. Folded dimensions 240 x 85 x 40 millimeters, unfolds up to 90 degrees and more to the installation plane.
                            I also use it to grind parts on my small surface
                            You may only view thumbnails in this gallery. This gallery has 5 photos.

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                            • An inclination meter made of a pair of tubes, a piece of a rod from an auto shock absorber and a measuring ampoule. Click image for larger version

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                              • I like the way the tilted table was used to make step spacer blocks. Neat.
                                Cheers
                                Roger

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