No announcement yet.

Shop Made Tools

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Originally posted by bborr01 View Post seems a little much to think that the back side of the chisel needs to be mirror smooth to chisel wood properly...
    The smoothness is not required for the act of chiseling the wood, but rather so as to produce a very sharp tip without flaws which will tend to fracture the tip.
    12" x 35" Logan 2557V lathe
    Index "Super 55" mill
    18" Vectrax vertical bandsaw
    7" x 10" Vectrax mitering bandsaw
    24" State disc sander


    • At the risk of wandering from the topic, I would like to add that 65 years of chiseling in wood has taught me that smooth sharpness is definitely a requirement for cutting wood fibers cleanly. A woodworker uses his cutting tools and observes the finish left behind in the same manner a machinist observes the finish of his cuts. Similarly the durability of the cutting tool. How to obtain that sharpness and durability is one of the many arbitrary routes to a goal.

      Back to shop made tools.



      • Check out the "ruler method". I use something thinner than a ruler, a piece of spring steel, and it works great.

        The basic idea is you only work the very edge of the back of the chisel (or plane iron, or whatever). When you are flattening the back, place the thin metal ruler, shim stock, etc. beneath the chisel near the back of the blade, closer to the handle (in between the chisel back and the stone or abrasive surface). This tilts it up slightly so you're really only working the edge (though you will bow it a little by pushing on it).

        You get a mirror finish close to the edge, and the fraction of a degree the edge area is off from the rest of the chisel back is irrelevant in practical use. Much faster than making a back substantially flat (I spent a lot of time doing that before moving on to the ruler method).


        • As a woodworker having done more hand tool work in the past couple years to grow my skills, I can assure that a well sharpened chisel with a polished back makes a big difference in the quality of the cut. Not a big deal if you just doing rough work, but for finely trimmed shoulders of a tenon or a tight fitting hand cut dovetail, it really matters to be precise. Polishing the back is usually only needed once when the chisel is new (some higher end tools are polished when made). After that only rarely will it need much further attention with just the micro bevel on the cutting edge needing honing to re-sharpen.


          • Just a very simple project to overcome a problem I encountered when trying to support the end of short stock sticking out of the side of the vise that needed to be drilled when the base of the vise prevented getting the support in close enough to use. Click image for larger version

Name:	Vise screw Jack Support 1.jpg
Views:	216
Size:	2.17 MB
ID:	2005051 Click image for larger version

Name:	Vise screw jack support 2.jpg
Views:	216
Size:	2.26 MB
ID:	2005052 Click image for larger version

Name:	Vise screw Jack Support 3.jpg
Views:	213
Size:	2.60 MB
ID:	2005053
            Fred Townroe