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  • Ed ke6bnl
    replied
    Originally posted by RMinMN View Post
    It breaks the light and the wire going to it and then Matt gets to blow another $10 on a new one. They are small and light enough to not do much damage. I mounted one onto my mini mill but it is too high up and doesn't put enough light where the end mill is.
    mine go caught one and I had to redo it. I just to the angle light and and clued magnets to it and just sticks to the outside of the quill no fancy holder.

    Leave a comment:


  • RMinMN
    replied
    Originally posted by bborr01 View Post
    What happens when a chip gets hold of that light and pulls it into the quill or drill?

    Brian
    It breaks the light and the wire going to it and then Matt gets to blow another $10 on a new one. They are small and light enough to not do much damage. I mounted one onto my mini mill but it is too high up and doesn't put enough light where the end mill is.

    Leave a comment:


  • Preso
    replied
    What a great idea. I have two mills that could do with this modification. I currently use a magnetic base halogen lamp but it gets really hot, wastes energy when it's not actually lit up (the transformer is always on) and it casts really harsh shadows. I love it!
    Regards,
    Preso

    Leave a comment:


  • bborr01
    replied
    Originally posted by mattthegamer463 View Post
    This is more of a modification for a tool. One thing that bugs me is shadows caused by cutters so I bought a ebay $5 ring light. It didn't quite feel like it would work on the mill quill so I paired it with a $1 ebay loc- line and a wall adapter to make a ring light for my little drill press.

    Happy with it so far.

    Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
    What happens when a chip gets hold of that light and pulls it into the quill or drill?

    Brian

    Leave a comment:


  • mattthegamer463
    replied
    Originally posted by Mr Fixit View Post
    Mattt,

    Can you provide any E bay info on that ring light? did you make the aluminum part? Would like to try what you have done.

    TX
    Mr fixit for the family
    Chris
    Its a 100mm white LED ring light used for aftermarket daytime running lights on cars. It comes with its own voltage and current regulator so it runs easily off just a wall adapter.

    https://www.ebay.ca/itm/12V-COB-LED-...qNJvFfwuHGIr5g

    This is the off brand loc line I used https://www.ebay.ca/itm/300mm-Plasti...t/192448493073

    I made the ring from 3/16" aluminum plate, using an insert parting tool to groove the face to fit the LED by friction.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bob Engelhardt
    replied
    Originally posted by mattthegamer463 View Post
    ... a ring light for my little drill press. ...
    Nice. I'm inspired to do something like that.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mr Fixit
    replied
    Mattt,

    Can you provide any E bay info on that ring light? did you make the aluminum part? Would like to try what you have done.

    TX
    Mr fixit for the family
    Chris

    Leave a comment:


  • mattthegamer463
    replied
    This is more of a modification for a tool. One thing that bugs me is shadows caused by cutters so I bought a ebay $5 ring light. It didn't quite feel like it would work on the mill quill so I paired it with a $1 ebay loc- line and a wall adapter to make a ring light for my little drill press.

    Happy with it so far.

    Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • Kolacek
    replied
    hello

    I am happy to hear that

    Nice design too, even 3 parts less than mine(i forgot to mention extraction spring).

    Leave a comment:


  • Ed ke6bnl
    replied
    GOT ME THINKING, I just built a propane forge and could use it in a crude manner to do some tempering. I have some bimetallic thermometers and will try it. If all works out may have to build and electric one.
    Last edited by Ed ke6bnl; 05-16-2018, 07:41 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • nexox
    replied
    Hi all - I've been following this thread for years, finally remembered to make an account and take a few pictures to share.

    Kolacek's hole saw arbor post late last year motivated me to get around to making my own, which I've been planning ever since I discovered that a 11/16-18 nut will fit over a 5/8-18 external thread. In order to guarantee a solid fit between the arbor and the back of the hole saw, I mounted the drive pins on a left-hand nut, the top portion of which is a slip fit on the 3/4" shank to keep everything square.

    The wrench flats were originally cut just to make the nut easier to hold in my mill vise to drill for the pins, but it turns out they're necessary to remove the hole saw after use, since it gets so torqued down while cutting. I admit I was in a bit of a rush with the bluing, so there are some light spots, I wasn't originally intending for it to look too pretty. One day I'll probably make another drive plate with the larger pin configuration, once I run into a project that needs a 3" hole saw in the mill.

    Edit: looks like my images might not show up inline, album is here: https://imgur.com/a/o6mYr8o




    Leave a comment:


  • lugnut
    replied
    Good looking tool MattiJ. Now, you just made my clamp tool obsolete. Oh well I needed to make another tool anyways.

    Leave a comment:


  • MattiJ
    replied
    Yeah, "cross-shaft" is drilled' with 1,5mm holes.

    Leave a comment:


  • Hopefuldave
    replied
    Originally posted by MattiJ View Post
    I had to "invent" my own version of wire tool also:





    Extra small version with friction lock for cramped spaces. Can be tightened with 10mm wrench or 5mm allen key.
    5x6mm piece of POM acts as a slip block and spring for the friction (set) screw, works surprisingly well and shaft is pretty consistent and stiff to turn.
    Am I right in thinking the cross-piece is drilled and the wire is fed through the drillings?

    Right or not, that's a handy tool I may steal it

    Dave H. (the other one)

    Leave a comment:


  • MattiJ
    replied
    I had to "invent" my own version of wire tool also:





    Extra small version with friction lock for cramped spaces. Can be tightened with 10mm wrench or 5mm allen key.
    5x6mm piece of POM acts as a slip block and spring for the friction (set) screw, works surprisingly well and shaft is pretty consistent and stiff to turn.
    Last edited by MattiJ; 05-14-2018, 12:27 PM.

    Leave a comment:

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