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  • Koda2

    That is a simple yet clever solution to a long standing problem. How did you cut the radius in the wood? You did a very nice job of the whole piece.
    Video meliora proboque deteriora sequor


    • Tool post grinder with $30.00 HF drill press

      Evan, this looks quite dangerous. Did you do something to keep the whole chuck + wheel contraption from flying out of the MT2 taper?

      Originally posted by Evan
      Tool post grinder eh? Why didn't I think of that?

      Oh, wait.... I did.

      Last edited by htrantx; 04-07-2010, 01:03 PM.


      • Originally posted by koda2
        I'm a newbie so I can't match the creations on this thread but here's my contribution. I am constantly changing setups on my 3-in-1 and it only takes a half-second of inattention while mounting this chuck and my fingertips are tortillas, even with a board to protect the ways.

        I got lucky on the height of this and it delivers the chuck to the spindle like a round going in the chamber.
        Dave A.
        Note the runners on the bottom of the chuck holder that assure then entire shebang won't slide off onto the floor.


        • Chuck install/removal aide

          Large wood "Vee" block would work also, eliminating the need to saw out a perfect semi-circle.


          • Some that may have been posted elsewhere, but fit this thread best

            Pipe work clamps....... for a small angle table

            Tub drain grate removal tool


            Keep eye on ball.
            Hashim Khan


            • Multi-use "carriage stop"

              Shop made collet setup... the middle three items. left-most is a shop made (ages ago) boring bar holder block

              Keep eye on ball.
              Hashim Khan


              • Chuck carrier specifics

                Originally posted by Cobbler
                K How did you cut the radius in the wood?
                Not hard to do. Measure your chuck in diameter exactly or trace it out. Measure is better. Draw the corresponding circle on whatever. I used scrap 2X6 pieces (nothing is thrown away here Careful crosshair markings allow you to judge just how much of a half circle you want on the finished project.

                The center of the chuck to the the bed ways is the height, and it is marked out with a parallel line.

                I used a table saw for the straight cuts and a standard wood bandsaw with a 1/4" blade to cut the circle line. Hog out the wood with preliminary cuts leaving a small amount and go slow on the final cut and it acts like a scroll saw. No jagged edges. Make sure the jig(band) saw table is square to the blade.

                The little pieces of oak on the bottom sides keep the whole contraption from sliding off the bed.

                I used a raw linseed oil finish hoping the way oil would not eventually ruin the wood; it takes a while to cure. We shall see.
                Last edited by koda2; 04-08-2010, 11:07 PM.


                • I've got wooden holders for my 10" 3 jaw, 12" 4 jaw, and 15" 4 jaw (not chucks you want to horse around). They are made from scrap boards (mostly 2x4), and made roughly like a v-block, with 2 ramp shaped short sections on top of a "stack" as required to almost contact the chuck. The bottom board is notched for the v-way, it is slid under the chuck, and the ramps moved up until they just snug against the chuck. Apply clamps, remove and add fasteners, perfect fit, no hassle...
                  Master Floor Sweeper


                  • Koda2, very elegant and well made solution. While we are on the subject, I will throw one out there that is very simple and works well for me. For each chuck I keep a piece of hardwood dowel about a foot longer that the thickness of the chuck. When ready to remove, I stick the dowel through the chuck and into the spindle, leaving just enough outboard for a good handhold. Lightly snug the chuck on the dowel and then remove the chuck, it is supported in the spindle until far enough out to grasp the backside of the dowel. Now you can carry it wherever and store it with a handle on each side. Leave the dowel installed until ready to put the chuck back on. Chuck is never loose or out of control.


                    • Made a new scale for my Bausch & Lomb magnifier. Made from shim steel. Heat blued and then diamond scratched on cnc mill.

                      I do not know what those white marks arround the sides are for, certainly not for measuring anything!
                      " you not think you have enough machines?"


                      • Linen Tester


                        I have one of those and I believe it is called a linen tester. I think the lines are for measuring the number of threads per inch.



                        • handleing a chuck

                          30+ years ago worked in a shop makeing tillage machinery chuck was ? 22+?? inch dia. To change, manhandle onto bed, clime onto slippery lathe, manhandle chuck onto camlock nose. finally convinced lead to change system took pipe cut to go into jaws & other outside the chuck dia, piece of flatbar welded between and lifting loop on outside pipe @ approximate balance point after that used overhead crane,much nicer!!!!!!!!


                          • Work holder and indexer for small tool sharpening.
                            ER 25 collet holder with 1/2" shaft fits in reamed hole and has a wavy spring washer for control of end play.
                            Finger holder reverses and a shaft with a tapered pin fits in brass hole and will fit in index holes drilled in the ER 25 collet holder. One row of 8 holes and one row of 6 holes for indexing of 2, 3, 4, 6 or 8 divisions.
                            About 3" of travel on ball bearing rails. Slide adjusts for depth travel stop and other slide adjusts for amount of grind.

                            Holders for 7/8" and 1" bores have 1/2" shanks and shown with gear cutters mounted on them. Only wrench needed for use of set up is the spanner wrench to tighten the collet.


                            • Mill table accessories for mills with maybe only one slot, and for use with parts that are not suited to a vise.

                              1) a table square.... the sides perpendicular to the slot are perpendicular to table motion, so a part with a true side can be slid up and clamped in place against the square, to generate another side at 90 deg to the first.
                              The hole allows a clamp stud to go through, and the t-nut associated with it has a notch to clear the button. That way a part can be clamped with the stud nice and close to the part. The buttons were used because this is a flat piece and so much would need to be milled away if the part had an integral key. Buttons leave room for the t-nut, and are hardened.

                              Table strip..... sides parallel to slot are parallel to motion of table. Again for large pieces that are not suitable for vise. The hole and cutout allow the use of a t-nut and stud to clamp a part close to the part middle even though there is only one slot, and the clamp would otherwise have to be off the end. With this is it usually wise to also clamp the part against the strip if possible.

                              BTW, the lines you see drawn on the table are to mark the usual end of table travel relative to the spindle.... so parts are not clamped on with machined areas extending past the normal reach of the spindle according to table travel.....
                              Last edited by J Tiers; 04-10-2010, 11:20 PM.

                              Keep eye on ball.
                              Hashim Khan


                              • I found all of the pieces of this vise in the scrap dumpster years ago when a guy retired. It was unground at the time. I think the guy that retired probably didn't feel like kissing some grinder hands butt to get it ground. (at the time, us toolmakers had grinder hands do all of our grinding. as an apprentice though, we were able to grind all of our own tools)
                                I later ground it all in to fit together and tig welded the handle at home after I retired. I misplaced the hardened flippy thing that drops into the grooves. When I find it, this vise will be complete. I just couldn't stand to see it go to the scrap yard to be melted down.


                                OPEN EYES, OPEN EARS, OPEN MIND

                                THINK HARDER


                                MY NAME IS BRIAN AND I AM A TOOLOHOLIC