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  • [QUOTE=mattinker]
    Originally posted by jackary
    I am pleased with my workshop efforts today. I wanted to remove the weld flash ridge thats inside the length of ERW tube so that I could fit a smaller close fitting tube so that it could slide smoothly. So this is how I did it and it worked out very well
    (Click on images for description)

    That's a great idea. How long did it take to file out the flash?

    Regards, Matthew
    About 15 minutes Matthew


    • Originally posted by Glenn Wegman
      Standard size is .984" 16 TPI.

      Dunno why they landed on that size!
      .9842 = 24.999 mm - awfully close to 25mm. Sounds as though someone has snuck in a metric size on you. A bit unusual to mix it with an imperial TPI, though not unheard of.



      • Definitely listed as .984" 16 tpi.


        • Originally posted by Glenn Wegman
          Definitely listed as .984" 16 tpi.

          Might have originated as 1/64" smaller than 1". 63/64"=0.984375".
          Don Young


          • Maybe someone messed up the first batch. Rather than trash them, they crossed off 1.000 and replaced it with 0.984. I do that daily on my own stuff


            • More likely they want you to be locked-in to them.........

              Lots of lathes have a proprietary taper in the spindle...... ones above MT3..... where ya gonna go to get the adapter?

              proprietary electrical connectors....... where ya gonna go?

              odd screw sizes...... where ya gonna go?

              Thanks, Glenn for the tip.......
              CNC machines only go through the motions


              • Drilling round stock

                This is a really great thread.

                Here's a tool that I haven't used yet!

                "V" block made out of 40mm across the flats hex bar welded together with hold down "tabs" at each end. Centred using a cone morse 3 centre, once centred, tightened down with studding and "T" nuts.

                The round to be drilled is centred with the same morse centre (you can't see it, but there's a centre-punch mark to line it up.

                Drilling the hole. I had to make extra long hold downs. In this picture is my 'Denbigh" pillar drill manufactured between 1930 and 1960 the table is dead square to the column. I regularily drill 50mm holes with it, I have to use a morse 3 to 4 adapter.

                Unlike a lot of people, I make a lot of my hold downs, I've learnt a lot making things like "T" nuts!

                Regards, Matthew


                • Couple of tools

                  Here is a pic of a "DRO" for my Colchester 15 x 50"

                  A vee roller on a long threaded stand. I use it for bandsaw work and long shaft work on the mill.A piece on angle iron, some scrap brass and two 6006 2RS bearings.
                  please visit my webpage:


                  • My home shop made CNC router.......A tool in itself
                    Last edited by Deja Vu; 05-31-2010, 06:42 PM.
                    John M...your (un)usual basement dweller


                    • I just joined HSM the other day and have been glued to this thread from page 1. And the one thing I noticed? Clean shop or messy shop, quick and dirty or precision hardened and ground- everything was very ingenious made by skilled people and "necessity is the mother of invention".


                      • I'll post a newb pic. I'm making a powder horn and needed to taper the pour spout's hole so the stopper would fit more securely. I made a single-edged tapered reamer in about 10 minutes using a piece of home center bar stock, a hacksaw, and a file or two. The taper of the tool is 1/32" over 1 1/4". This tool worked well enough in horn but wouldn't have worked in harder materials.

                        The cherry stopper fits the reamed hole. Good thing I fixed my lathe's compound!

                        Last edited by Tony Ennis; 06-05-2010, 10:22 AM.


                        • I little surface gage I made. The only parts I cheated on were the brass knobs (Lowes).


                          • been meaning to put together the T&C grinder for a while....... Finally did it with an "interim" grinder spindle, a Dumore 44....

                            made it a 'finger", found some centers, and it's now sharpening things. need to make it a center reference, to make the offset down a little easier. Sharpening "off" the edge for now.

                            Finger could be a bit higher..... it worked this time anyway

                            CNC machines only go through the motions


                            • Now thats what i`m talking about (Get Her Done)
                              Every Mans Work Is A Portrait of Him Self


                              • Another tool for the grinder

                                To set up for sharpening, you need to set the wheel on-center with the cutter, and then either move off-center, or adjust the tooth rest to get the relief.

                                While you can use the surface gage as a reference, I decided I wanted a nicer tool..... so I made a center gage for it.

                                In place on the grinder table. The long arm is to reach the center of the wheel

                                Close-up showing hole for set screw to hold the blade. the business end is the flat on the underside of the tip

                                Close up of bottom showing the two holes for set screws to set height and parallelism of the flat on the blade. (No they are not symmetrical.... my nutty idea about fulcrum, probably could be symmetrical)

                                Last edited by J Tiers; 06-13-2010, 09:38 PM.
                                CNC machines only go through the motions