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  • Here's a rack for my mill tooling that I finished today. It mounts on the back of the ram by the lifting eye hole.

    My shop made fly cutter is in the background of the second pic. I'll post pics of that later
    Stuart de Haro


    • Originally posted by hornluv
      Here's a rack for my mill tooling that I finished today. It mounts on the back of the ram by the lifting eye hole.

      My shop made fly cutter is in the background of the second pic. I'll post pics of that later
      Interesting tooling rack. First time I've seen that approach.

      How about pics of tools you use to make your horns?



      • Here is a draw bar hammer I made. I used a 3/4" deep socket as the base of it. I machined a square on the brass insert and pressed it into the square on the socket. I then made a steel insert to take up all the empty space in the middle of the socket so I would have something to tap into. Drilled and tapped to 1/2-20 (The socket was hard-ish, but softer than I expected). Turned and knurled an Aluminum handle to fit and voila! Now I can loosen and tap in one fell swoop. Soon the world will be mine, mwahahaha!

        Clutch, I've got some pics of my Horn making tools someplace. I'll see if I can find them.
        Stuart de Haro


        • Nice job on the hammer there ... gotta make me one of those!


          • My thanks to Frank Ford

            I like his web site especially his Delta Band saw.

            I made his gravity pull and his metal feed projects.

            I put a 15lbs. brick of lead on the end of a wire rope, guided by a pulley.

            cuts nice and true and I don't have to sit around pushing the metal through the blade.


            After the cut:

            Gravity Pull mechanism:

            Metal guide:


            • I am new to milling and needed to put a hex on the end of a shaft. I do not have a rotary index table or dividing head and this is what i came up with, i got the inspiration from Evans how to to build and indexable end mill thread.
              I had a large nut that i bored the inside to .001" under the shaft size, faced the nut on one side to be square with the bore, then split the nut with a hack saw. Now i can use a screw driver to spread the nut and slide it on the shaft, this way it " clamps " to the shaft so you don't loose the position when rotating in the mill vice and the faced side of the nut can sit on parallels.


              • Keep em coming guys,,, very nice practical ways around things,

                I gotta say that Hornluv's drawbar tightener/hammer is the bomb, I might build something similar instead of trying to use my box end as a hammer and chipping up the top paint on the china hoe...

                Even if I just weld a little nub of steel on the side of the box end it would be a vast improvement...
                Last edited by A.K. Boomer; 08-12-2010, 08:18 AM.


                • Since I took a pic of a boring bar for the make your own bar I figured I would put it here so others could get ideas..

                  I bought a few of the insert cartridges that were different geometry on ebay for less than 15 bucs. I needed to bore some bearing housings that were 8 to 12 inches in dia in the bore.wanted something ridged."rigidity is the key to sucess by the way"..

                  I had a 3" square bar handy and whittled away till I came up with this. I put in a few holes to mount it for different lengths and i can have 2 studs holding at once.Rigid



                  • Simple as a flat rock,a drill and tap guide.Just a loop of flatbar welded to a threaded rod coupler and milled at 90*.

                    Comes in handy when multiple threads are to be tapped by hand,also works good for those broke off head bolts that have to be done under the hood.

                    I just need one more tool,just one!


                    • Very clever indeed! thanks for sharing that tapping hint!...


                      • Needed to center up a shaft in a housing. All I had close by were drifts.

                        Click for larger photo.

                        Civil engineers build targets, Mechanical engineers build weapons.


                        • Originally posted by rockrat
                          Needed to center up a shaft in a housing. All I had close by were drifts.

                          Click for larger photo.


                          Nothin the matter with that. Three "centering tools" that have infinite, incremental size adjustment within their range. If all three are just tight they all hold position well. They don't tend to fall into oblivion like three adjustable parallels would. Looks like the right tools for the job.
                          "People will occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of the time they will pick themselves up and carry on" : Winston Churchill


                          • Now that I can post pics here are a few.

                            Sir John posted these awhile back. I actually stole the idea from somewhere else a few years ago. If you have a manual lathe and you dont have a turret tailstock, you gotta do this. Lots of benefits. Gets you closer to the tailstck than a drill chuck to help you start on center. Super fast to go from spotter to center drill or whatever. i will be adding a few common drill sizes in stub length for starter holes.

                            The one on the end hold a two flute centercutting endmill for getting rid of those pesky little nubs from the cutoff on the lathe. Makes things reall flat to get a spotter started on center. Works ok as a drill also for short depths and you can let it center your holes as well as it kinda cuts like a boring bar.

                            Some tool holders, the boring bar holder in the back holds Morse 2 taper. The knurler needs to be reworked. Yeah I know youcan buy them cheap but I have lots of metal and the cutters and learning to use it has been worth the exercise. I make them in aprox 6" bars then cut them up.


                            • Magnetic strips to hold some common things above the lathe. Got these for a couple bucks each at Ikea.

                              A rack for all the large drills just over tailstock.

                              Attacked some hardwood with the tablesaw to bevel cut some strips then screwed to MDF for lathe tool holders.

                              Mill tooling rack. .125 th alum sheet with an angle for support. Yeah thats Frank Fords idea with the cut up phone book paper supply. Than Frank is a wealth of great ideas.

                              Every rack or toolholding thing I've made 2X as big as I thought I'd need it and it would need to be upsized within 6 mos. Can they ever be "big enough?"

                              Sorry about the hack job on the editing in the picks. Still cant get it to crop correctly.
                              Last edited by fishfrnzy; 09-06-2010, 11:58 PM.


                              • Great ideas to organize things. I never thought of putting a small end mill in a holder like that for the lathe, but I'm gonna do it now.

                                You did well to get those mag knife strips at Ikea for a couple bucks a piece ... here they are now $10 for the "Kroken". Still worth it for this use though.